Well, engine/tranny are now sitting on a steel table awaiting surgery. Have a few jobs in mind, one of which involves replacing the flywheel, pressure plate, disc, release bearing, slave cylinder and accumulator. Anything special I have to be aware of here or just fly at it? As this era of the 911 is rather new to me I will be haunting this site over the upcoming winter /project season for input from you the gurus of the 996tt. Hopefully when all is done I can contribute what I have learned to those who choose to follow. Game on!
Appreciate any and all input.

 

Never had to replace a 996 Turbo (or my Boxster) clutch but my car's transmission has been out a few times. Every time the Porsche tech has the transmission out he replaces the needle bearings the clutch control shaft rides in and possibly the sealing rings.

Since the exhaust has to come out he also replaces the metal o-rings -- one each side -- that seal the turbo the exhaust manifold.

If called for be sure you use new hardware (flywheel bolts, etc.).

The factory manual calls for the teeth (splines?) of the drive shaft be greased with a very thin coat of Olista Longtime BP (to protect the splines from corrosion). The release lever is inserted into the release bearing and held in place with a suitable piece of adhesive tape.

Replace the release bearing. Do not grease the sliding surfaces.

If you want send me a private email with a note about Turbo clutch and an email address that will accept a PDF file and I'll make a PDF of the factory "removing/installing the clutch" and email it to you.

 

Macster's comments are right on. Replacing the needle bearings on the clutch release fork is not a bad idea, but not really justified since those bearings are very lightly loaded and do not spin.

The tricky part is when Macster mentioned "taping" the release fork. Use a good piece of duct tape to suspend the release fork in its correct location until the transmission is slid into place and the cross shaft (with needle bearings installed) is slid into place. As soon as the cross shaft is installed, wiggle the tape to get it to release itself from the fork. Doing this with the power train out of the car makes it pretty easy. But, it is clumsy.

 

Agree with Macster on needle bearings. When I pulled those bearings at 110,000 miles, the grease was a little caked up but the needle bearings were perfect. I reused the bearings after cleaning them up and regressing using wheel bearing grease.

do replace the flywheel bolts. They stretch and are a one use part.

be careful in installing the cross shaft for the throw out bearing release fork. There is a threaded hole on one end essential to pulling the shaft. Install the shaft backwards and you will have a hell of a time pulling the shaft the next time.

the installation of the fork is clumsy. Just be patient. It's trial and error on the tape until you are successful in installing the cross shaft.

lastly, since you are pulling the flywheel, replace the rear main seal at the same time.

 

Had no problem with clutch install. New everything, fork shaft, bearings and seals. Flywheel, mount bolts, rear main seal, window welded the trans mount and replaced a cracked guibo. New coolant hoses, nipples pinned, new water pump and belt. Every O'ring replaced. Engine/trans now back in the car and running....no leaks
Thanks to all who offered assistance in the way of support.

 

Did you do the work yourself? If so, what were the issues, if any, with dropping the powertrain out of the car?

 

Did all my own work as I am fortunate to have a great shop to work in. Car sat on a hoist from last October until about two weeks ago. Previous two cars were a 911sc and a 930 coupe, both air cooled and rather easy to get the drive train out of. Not so with the 996tt. Found a posting by Crash41301 on this site which I used as a guide. Second set of photos and written directions start on page 3.Must have taken him hours to write up and post....very well done and a gift to those doing this job for the first time. Post is titled 996tt engine pulling experience. Would suggest you use the knowledge this fellow has shared.....priceless. I downloaded to usb thumb drive and had it available on my laptop when I needed input.

 

Thanks for the reply. I have seen several articles that lay out the engine drop process, which was the focus of my post.

Rather, I was looking for any narrative that spoke about issues encountered in the drop process and/or any tricks learned that would either simplify or ease the drop process.

 

Guess the advantage I had doing this was time. Was in no hurry as I had 6 months do complete what I wanted to do. No tricks just patience with a few things. Rear drive shafts do not have to be removed Aluminum air intake had to be positioned properly prior to installing the engine as it sits on 2 pins. Power steering lines in the engine bay are a treat to remove and install...long skinny arms would help...I have neither. Filling the cooling system made a whole lot easier with a vacuum charge kit which avoids air locks. I bought a Mac AEV700 and it worked great. Take notes, photos, mark orientation where needed, don't take short cuts and work safely. If I can help in any way don't hesitate to ask.
Regards