9111964- to current Porsche 911, from the air-cooled days to the current 997
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I could use some advice.. What should I offer the seller? This will be my first P-car if I decide to go through with it and bring it back to good condition..
Here's the description:
"I'm selling my 1976 Porsche 911 2.7L (Wide Body). Clear title in hand with no back-fees. The interior and exterior are in good condition (small crack on dash and minor damage on both sides of the lower rear bumper-see picture below). The motor runs but is unable to pass smog (911/83 case- Euro Spec/ROW) The motor is also leaking oil (I was told this is common for older 911s). 5-speed transmission shifts fine. Its currently registered as NON-OPERATIONAL since it hasnt been able to pass smog. If interested in test drive I will get a one-day moving pass. I was told by a mechanic that the brake calibers will most likely need to be rebuilt since there sticking. Please contact me through craigslist for additional information.
Will consider trade for a 1967-69 Firebird or Camaro...Otherwise Im accepting reasonable offers."
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
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I am just trying to get an idea of what to offer. It is a clean looking widebody targa.. I am guessing the widebody was an aftermarket add-on, correct?
You first need to ask yourself what you want the car for: as a track car, or as a registered daily/weekend car.
You then take the max price you're willing to pay and subtract from it the cost of all the work you need to put into the car (depending on what you want to use it for).
What you end up with is the maximum price you should offer the seller. You then try to negotiate if you decide you still want to go through with the purchase.
You need to start by having a PPI done if you are serious about purchasing the car. You need to know what is wrong with the car before you can make an offer. It has oil leaks, yes but what is leaking oil? Is it the oil return tubes, valve covers or is there a crack in the case? If the calipers are sticking you will most likely need new rotos, pads, replace the rubber brake lines, and flush the fluid.
The wide body or "turbo look" was not a factory option until 84 so this is an aftermarket kit. You will want to see if the rear flares are metal vs. fiberglass, the same is true for the front fenders.
If I were to take a guess I would say $7000 or so might be a good starting point.
A good rule of thumb for buying your first Porsche is to purchase the newest one you can afford.
If I were to take a guess I would say $7000 or so might be a good starting point.
I'd say $5000.
Quote:
Originally Posted by driver8
A good rule of thumb for buying your first Porsche is to purchase the newest one you can afford.
I disagree. The earlier models offer good value while they are much more simple to work on. You can buy a 1999 996 coupe for ~$20K. And then you will get murdered at the service shop when you need service (there are 45 sensors to the computer).
I'd say that a guy should buy the nicest Porsche that they can afford. The 1978-1983 911SC offers the best bang for the buck, and anyone can work on them.
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1973 Porsche 911 2.7L, 1981 911SC, 1971 Porsche 911E, 2002 Z06, 1995 Cobra R, 1994 Mustang Cobra
1965 Mustang FIA road race car (4 speed To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. )
Thanks for your replies.. I decided to skip it. Apparently it had the RS motor bottom end, which I'm not sure about where the project was going, and yes, the widebody was fiberglass. Its a nice looking car, but I'd rather just save up a bit more for a turbo model. Thanks for your replies and advice
I disagree. The earlier models offer good value while they are much more simple to work on. You can buy a 1999 996 coupe for ~$20K. And then you will get murdered at the service shop when you need service (there are 45 sensors to the computer).
I'd say that a guy should buy the nicest Porsche that they can afford. The 1978-1983 911SC offers the best bang for the buck, and anyone can work on them.
This is true if you are a DIY'er. If you are not then you will be be in the same boat. Especially as the parts for the older cars become harder to find.
The earlier cars are great to drive and easy to work on (I have a 87 Carrera) but my 87 will not touch a 1999 996 in terms of performance and handling, not to mention the safety improvements.
The earlier cars are great to drive and easy to work on (I have a 87 Carrera) but my 87 will not touch a 1999 996 in terms of performance and handling, not to mention the safety improvements.
You are correct. I just assumed that everyone here would have a basic DIY-in-the-garage ability on an earlier car. My car only has three wires to make it run.
Nonetheless, I still see 1987 Carrera's recently sale for 996 prices. Any air cooled engine can fit in any 1965-1997 Porsche 911.
The safety improvements of an early car are easily upgraded (rollbar and 5-point harness):
You are correct. I just assumed that everyone here would have a basic DIY-in-the-garage ability on an earlier car. My car only has three wires to make it run.
Nonetheless, I still see 1987 Carrera's recently sale for 996 prices. Any air cooled engine can fit in any 1965-1997 Porsche 911.
The safety improvements of an early car are easily upgraded (rollbar and 5-point harness):
It is nice to be able to work on you own car, but there are quite a few out there who just don't have the DIY skills we have.
Regarding the safety improvements, I was thinking more along the lines of air bags ABS, and PSM, as opposed to a cage and harnesses.
If you are looking for your first Porsche, read all you can. There are a number of great books out there that help you understand the various models, the good with the bad. Check out as many as you can, join the local PCA and the hunt will be fun.
My 77 is pushing 180K miles and have a great mechanic. I do alot of basic maintainence, easy to work on. Gool luck in your search
Jim
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