Yes, you can just push for a few seconds and pull for a few seconds to get the pistons to retract and then you should be able to slide the caliper off of the rotor.

 

Great write up. Thanks for sharing.

Does anyone know the minimum thickness for the rotors F/R on the 991 3.4?

My light hasn't gone on yet, but the front pads are thin at 24k mi. On my 997.2 I did pads all around at 27k mi. but kept the rotors. I'm assuming I can do this with the 991 safely, but I don't have the figures for the minimum rotor thickness.

Any info. is much appreciated.

DP

 

Dr. Speed, the after market Pagid pads are 8mm and I would have to guess that the OEM's are the same. The rule of thumb for track use is if they get down to 40%-50% (i.e. 3-4mm) you should replace them. Worn pads don't absorb heat as well, which is why you don't run them all the way down.

For street, I would think that 2mm should be safe, in terms of getting all you can out of them, but not putting the rotors at risk.

BTW, this is a great DIY for the brake pads, well done! I would add that I use a multi-piston pad spreader, which really helps push the pistons back, which in turn makes it easier to put the caliper on with new pads installed. The pad spreader and pad thickness gauge are very handy tools, and I think I got them both from Amazon. I also did not bother putting the wear sensors back in, as I track the car frequently and keep a close eye on the pad wear. I found that dealing with the wear sensors was a bit of a nuisance.

Lastly, I would recommend bleeding the brakes after changing the pads. Especially if you have driven on the track. You also need to keep track of the fluid level in the master cylinder when you push the pistons back in (it can overfill and leak, making a big mess) or when you bleed the brakes (as it is possible to drain the master cylinder introducing air into the system that is hard to get out).

There are lots of ways to bleed the brakes, but I use a vacuum system powered by a compressor that comes with a special bottle that keeps the master cylinder fluid level full while siphoning the old fluid out of the calipers. This makes bleeding the brakes a simple, one person job. And don't forget that you have to bleed the inside and outside of the calipers.

 

its always written/stamped on the rotor itself somewhere, usually on the hat or the outter ring. you prob have to clean it up a bit to see it now, but its there.

 

Great write-up; just like I watched the Mayo Performance tech do it. BTW it really was a lot easier on the older models.

ChuckJ

 

Is 8mm both front and read pads -- thicknes is the same?
Can anyone confirm if the OEM pads are 8 milimeter also?

My rears are thinner than my fronts after some track days -- suspect Torque Vectoring has an impact here?

 

Yes. That's what happens. My rears burn off substantially quicker than the fronts.

 

Great DIY! Reps coming your way!!
Jan

 

Can you change only rears? Or is it recommended hat all 4 are swapped at once?

 

63 ft-lbs -- is this from a shop manual?

Anyone know where I can order a shop manual? Suncoast?

Thank you.

 

Not from a shop manual, but I'm sure of that number. You can do just the rears if that's all you need for now.

 

Thanks for the DIY...Still helping 5 years later...Jus got a 991.1C4S and it needs all (4) done...

 

Glad it helped!

 

Is it the same procedure for the rears as well ??? I'm going to replacing all 4 rotors and pads.. Thanks

 

Same procedure for rears.