Trackrats please advice.

Did a trackday in my totally stock 991 C2, PASM, PTV, 20" Pirelli Pzero. I've had my fair share of driver education and high performance courses. So I was braking very hard, slow in, fast out, like we are supposed to do to drive fast and safe. Obviously sometimes you overcook it a bit, but those times can be counted on 1 hand during the day.
But I still have massive vibes under braking, so went to dealer for diagnosis. Turns out I took quite some life out of the tyres, especially the rears, but that's not related to the vibes. Also brake pads are virtually gone, the drilled holes in the brake discs were 100% full with brake dust, but also not related to the vibes. Thing is, my rear disks are blue and warped. Front ones are blueish but probably still OK.

Culprit is PSM that brakes inside rear to assist turnin. And probably also PTV that manages traction by braking the rears. And this took me by surprise as I conscously was going in slow, and exiting fast and clean. No overdriving the car.
So I basically have 3 options that I do not particularly care for: -1- drive slower, -2- turn off PSM, -3- buy a GT3/4 car

I know it's kind of a generic question with that little info but, any of you trackrats have any advice how I can enhance this situation (other than the obvious i can't drive and should get more training) ?

 

Don't be so hard on yourself, you're just driving the car smartly and having fun. Tires, brake pads, and rotors are all consumables for track day. When I was doing heavy track days, I'd have lots of spares in the garage and actually swap everything out on Friday nights, then trailer in for the weekend. You do have options for sure, all depends on where you want to be and finances, work you can do yourself, etc. Some thoughts:

1) If tracking the 991 - get a set of R-Compound track tires and wheels. Also a dedicated set of track rotors and more aggressive pad compound paired to those rotors. Swap them all out before track events and put your street stuff aside. Swap back after track days. Turn off your PCM. Your car won't bite, just respect trailing throttle oversteer inherent in a 911 and compensate for it. I've driven hundreds of laps without electronic aids, your car won't go wildly out of control and it will expand your skill set. Keep your brake fluid fresh. If you continue to roast rotors with the PCM off, then you can duct your brakes, but that stuff always gets torn off on the street. Remember that tires/brakes are truly consumables just like gasoline and should be factored into the cost of a track weekend.

2. Buy a dedicated track car. Once of the best ones out there is a Porsche 944 Turbo...really quick, very well balanced and not costly. More than fast enough, and no big ticket cost like a GT3.

Its's a slippery slope. Tracking a street car regularly gets old really fast as you soon find you want harnesses to hold you in, a roll bar or cage to keep you safe once you see all the roll-overs (if you go often enough, you will), and then you need racing bucket seats as street seats don't work with harnesses. Some camber dial in with better shocks would be nice, too. Now you should have a fuel cell due to fire concerns and ... ta-da...you built a track car! And you need a trailer and tow vehicle...lol

 

Same thing happened to me. I have had Lotus that I used as a track car and had not tracked my Porsche for several years. Per the previous post upgrading the the rotors and pads will help a lot. I'm not going to go that route, I will either pickup a track car or just not track the porsche...

 

The quick and free solution is turning off the PASM

 

I'm thinking it's most likely due to pads that shouldn't be on a track. Next time install some dedicated track pads before your track weekend. I've always had good results with Performance Friction pads. They sell several different compounds, although I'm not sure of available fitment for the 991.

 

So a stock 991 isn't designed for any track use? I was thinking of taking mine to the track, but after reading this I'm worried

 

should be ok with Ceramic Composite Brakes..Cheaper than buying a GT3.

 

You can run stock Porsche pads all day long on the track. The only draw back is they don't stop as quickly or last as long as the high temperature track pads. Been at this for years with several different models.

 

Brakes designed for track use would never be accepted by the majority of 911 owners for street use. Track pads are squeaky, dirty, brake poorly when cold, and accelerate rotor wear. The stock pads would be fine for your first ever day at the track, but beyond that will only cause problems.

 

So how often can I track the car before it would cause problems? I'm looking at one of those driving programs where you bring your own car.

 

It will be a long time before you're fast enough to need more than stock.

 

Thanks for the feedback guys, I'm going to take some time to let it all sink in. Also thanks for the moral support and for not stomping a rookie into the ground right away !
I thought of something the other day. Problem first occurred starting session 3. During session 2 there were no problems. But I was in Blanchimont (for those that are familiar with the Spa Francorchamps F1 track) when my session ended and I had to come straight into the pit without cooldown lap. Maybe I should have driven the car straight to the public road for a few kilometers of cooldown instead of letting it sit in the paddock.

 

The trick when coming off track is not to set your parking brake, that creates a hot spot on the rotor and can result in a warpage. Leave it in gear to park, or if a PRK just "P", but don't activate the parking brake.

 

No, I didn't use the parking brake.
I actually wish I did, because than I would have a very obvious culprit and an easy fix :-)

 

What do you trackrats think about this ?
Keeping in mind I've been trying to drive as clean and as safe as possible, that is WITHOUT trailbraking, so virtually all my braking was done in a straight line prior to turn in.
Would it be beneficial to my disc overheating and warping case if I would trailbrake a little bit to assist turnin myself. Logic dictates the PSM would have to intervene less with braking that inner rear wheel. Kinetic energy would than be spread to the 4 brakes by my trailbrake instead of the 1 brake by the PSM inner rear intervention.