Big wing conversion question (GT2 decklid upgraders, this is for you guys!)

[Mikelly]

I actually have the whole front spoiler off the car and will shoot some pics for you later with it on the floor of the shop so you can get an idea of what it looks like. The other thing you might seriously want to consider is just going the GT2 front bumper route. The write up Titan just did is excellent and really makes the cost of doing the conversion MUCH lower than initially thought...And that is a tried and true "balance" for rear downforce... Mike

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[jcb-memphis]

I hear you. But, the aero front lip "looks" lower. I suppose the key is the inlets at the front of the hood. They have to be functional to get more downforce. I have always suspected that you could do the same with holes on a standard unit.

In time, I am sure I'll go that route. For now, wings like you have probably are equal to the gt2 and a LOT cheaper...despite the awesome titan write-up.

Thanks for the shots in advance. I'll just copy you as I remember how you talked about them helping....and with your experience, I suspect they will be perfect. I don't plan to "overwing" the rear...it will just be medium.

I wish there was a "cheap" way to test our cars. Like a wind-tunnel day ---just like the common dyno day. You'd put corner balance scales under the tires and blow and watch the load change with velocity. You could even check wind yaw....would be cool. I am sure Porsche does this at the factory.


Jeff

[jcb-memphis]

Originally Posted by Mikelly

Jeff, Couple comments about those Canards...

Find a raceshop (Maybe your local indy) who has used aero aids up front. You have a lot of "stuff" up there and you don't want to throw a screw thru the A/C condensor or the side of a radiator tank...



I used these aluminum Canards last September with great results... Car was very much planted...

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r226/Mikelly_2006/Mike%20911%20Twin%20Turbo/PICT0009-2.jpg

Mike

I found these on that same site and will be getting a pair. I plan to put them into the small "sort of" vertical surface on the side of my aero kit front air dam. What I like about them is that they look very nice. They are about 50 dollars a pair. Not cheap, but not bad for a very nice "looking" thing. ALU would be 5 bucks tops. I could do it at home. But, I do like how these look.

The item:
http://www.carbonmods.co.uk/Products...CMNCCSM01.aspx

(I just ordered some, great stuff...will let you guys know how it goes...will look nice enough to leave on the car....)


Idea:

[jcb-memphis]

Originally Posted by Reaper935

Sweet can't wait to see it is it 60" or 70" element?

I think 58-60". Not sure. It is based on the real 996 race car wing..may be OEM to be honest. Sam is very thorough....so I suspect it is of the highest quality.

[tom kerr]

Originally Posted by jcb-memphis

I hear you. But, the aero front lip "looks" lower. I suppose the key is the inlets at the front of the hood. They have to be functional to get more downforce. I have always suspected that you could do the same with holes on a standard unit.

In time, I am sure I'll go that route. For now, wings like you have probably are equal to the gt2 and a LOT cheaper...despite the awesome titan write-up.

Thanks for the shots in advance. I'll just copy you as I remember how you talked about them helping....and with your experience, I suspect they will be perfect. I don't plan to "overwing" the rear...it will just be medium.

I wish there was a "cheap" way to test our cars. Like a wind-tunnel day ---just like the common dyno day. You'd put corner balance scales under the tires and blow and watch the load change with velocity. You could even check wind yaw....would be cool. I am sure Porsche does this at the factory.


Jeff

just finished 400 miles at sebring over four days. I had about 10 different holes drilled in the adjustment for the wing. I tried them all and set it to the best lap time. there was a 2-3 second difference.
also in long sweepers too much rear wing makes the front of the car push and not steer well.....



63 inches

[TT Surgeon]

There are a couple of threads on renntech about this, there are a couple(3-4?) of porsche wire harnesses that will work, priced from 30$-300$.
GL
c

[jcb-memphis]

Thanks Tom. I plan to take Sam's advice...intermediate was best general position. For me, right now, that is plenty good. Once I am an instructor, I'll likely get into optimization a bit.

Your car is amazing looking.

You still have the biggest wing. And, you need it a lot more than I do...you go a LOT faster than I do.



Jeff

[jcb-memphis]

Originally Posted by TT Surgeon

There are a couple of threads on renntech about this, there are a couple(3-4?) of porsche wire harnesses that will work, priced from 30$-300$.
GL
c

Just got on and searched and could not find it...could you PM me the 30$ link.

Jeff

[Mikelly]

Jeff, There is a place you could setup a "test day" in a real live tunnel to see what works...

http://www.aerodynwindtunnel.com/

We rented it for 9 hours and it cost us about $3800 back in 2007. We did a "club" day rental in their Aerodyn2 and we got 31 tests total in that amount of time (I did a magazine article for Nissan Sport on it), so figure 31 different test scenarios, because every test was of a different aero treatment or differently configured car.

You could get a bunch of guys together and 5-6 cars and go play once you have all the bits together...

Mike

[John@SpeedTech]

Andres,

Below is a picture of the passenger side hydraulic wing wiring. What would do with the two leads shown in the picture ( blue/black & grey/black in order to prevent the light from appearing?

Then what would I do on the drivers side to the two leads there?

[Iceyankee-Tsi]

Hi John:

If you know that probably you wont be using the hydraulic spoiler system again(and for a cleaner look), just cut all four micro-switches cables. Then weld together(or connect by any other means) the gray cable with the black cable and tape. For the other two cables(the blue and the other black) just tape them individually to prevent contact between them. Thats it.

If you would like to preserve the harness intact, just leave both switches in there released positions(as you have them in the picture) and tape them to the harness. You need to prevent them from been pressed(since this is what indicates a lowered spoiler status when the swiches are installed in their ram bracket).

Best regards, Andres

[jcb-memphis]

To the crowd, I bought a GT2 type harness from MA Shaw so I could leave my OEM harness alone. He claims that it works fine without programming. He did not know what would happen if you pushed the switch on the dash with the new harness...he suspected turning the car on and off would make that error go away, but he was not sure and said he'd get back to me.

$125. So I went with it. I just have to move the fan/light/plastic over and such. The new wing comes with all the lock/hinge/brake stuff intact. OEM ones at Pelican were 277 no matter what the last two numbers (TT, aero turbo, gt2).

If anyone has a fan and plastic shroud lying around they don't need/want...please PM me (crashed car, etc.....has to work though).

[TunaRollZ]

Originally Posted by Iceyankee-Tsi

Hi John:

If you know that probably you wont be using the hydraulic spoiler system again(and for a cleaner look), just cut all four micro-switches cables. Then weld together(or connect by any other means) the gray cable with the black cable and tape. For the other two cables(the blue and the other black) just tape them individually to prevent contact between them. Thats it.

If you would like to preserve the harness intact, just leave both switches in there released positions(as you have them in the picture) and tape them to the harness. You need to prevent them from been pressed(since this is what indicates a lowered spoiler status when the swiches are installed in their ram bracket).

Best regards, Andres

Good findings Andres.

I would imagine it'd be the same to e-tape down the switch w/ the gray and black wires. This may be an alternative to cutting the switches out of the system all together (in case one gets squeamish about cutting anything OEM). For the other switch, they'd have to make sure it doesn't somehow get depressed as you mentioned above. Right?

-jon

[Iceyankee-Tsi]

Hi Jon:

In fact, with just e-taping both switches assuring they are not pressed(both need to be released just like when you take them out of there spoiler ram holding bracket) it will be fine. The best thing about this is you are able to test it without cutting nothing. I didn't do this way because my spoiler's rams were leaking and I don't have plans of using the stock spoiler/assembly again. Very important to remember to unplug the spoiler switch in the dash area because if for some reason you press the lowering spoiler feature, it will give you the warning light since after a few seconds of not receiving the spoiler's micro-switches feedback it will interpret a spoiler system failure. Anyways, you know this will clear up once you restart the car.
Regards, Andres

[Jorgeassoc]

any more pics?