996tt KW v3 Suspension " too bouncy on street " setup thoughts plz ?
#1
996tt KW v3 Suspension " too bouncy on street " setup thoughts plz ?
Okay, I have a nicely corner balanced setup with KW V3 suspension. While watching my friend drive my car i could see the rear end bounce around a bit too much on a regular main road. I have tried a few different settings but would like the forum's input plz. I opened up the rebound on all four almost all the way and i feel it helped greatly. the compression is set 5 clicks from close on all four, i enjoy a stiffer ride ( even though the progressive springs are not all that stiff )
Thx
DW
Thx
DW
#2
KW V3s are a great product and I haven't tuned them at all, but what I did notice is that if I leave the front settings on my PSS9s set to 2 clicks from full hard and the rear set at full hard, I have a very compliant ride and well balanced (As low as the lowest GT2 stock ride height setting). If I soften the rear up even ONE CLICK I get a LOT of rear bounce.
I know that doesnt' help with your specific setup, but it does give you an idea of how much finding the right balance is just "fiddling" until you get there!
Mike
I know that doesnt' help with your specific setup, but it does give you an idea of how much finding the right balance is just "fiddling" until you get there!
Mike
#7
Thanks for the compliments... I'm in the advanced solo groups in most of the clubs I run with.
I set my "poor" and "limiting" PSS9s at 2 or 3 on the front (depending on how bouncy the track is) and full stiff on the rear. I set the H/Rsway bars to full soft on the front (helps much with understeer) and medium on the rear. HRs only have three adjustment holes, unlike the GT3s.
The key to great times *(other than lots of track time) is the ability to dial in as much camber as possible and to dial out the added caster that the negative camber creates. I would run at 2.9-3.0 negative front on camber with caster set at stock values.
Here's the downer there... Front OEM camber adjustment maxes at 1.5 negative and there is NO adjustment for caster. NONE. You must buy adjustable thrust bushings to dial out the added caster.
On the rear, I ran 2.5 negative. This worked very well for tire wear on my MPSCs both front and rear. The toe was set to Zero front and 5mm toe IN at the rear.
When I was starting out with this car two years ago, I didn't have the "need" for more negative camber, and I wasn't killing the outter edges of my MPSCs. However, by beginning of the second season I started cording tires. The outter edges would start wearing faster. This was directly linked to my lap times. The faster I was going into and thru the corners, the quicker a set of tires would start to show severe wear on the outter edges. I used a pyrometer with a probe to find that the outside 1/3rd of the tire would be as much as 50 degrees higher than the rest... The inner edge was the coolest. What I did to help with this was to get some GT3 front control arms, and Dan at Vivid hooked me up with some of his rear dogbones. I had Lufteknic do a full track alignment for me and instantly I was quicker. Timing was good because I bought a Traqmate just 2 events before doing the suspension upgrades and I could compare all of the data from those events to the events where I was running more negative camber with a more aggressive overall alignment. The results were very eye opening...
Mike
I set my "poor" and "limiting" PSS9s at 2 or 3 on the front (depending on how bouncy the track is) and full stiff on the rear. I set the H/Rsway bars to full soft on the front (helps much with understeer) and medium on the rear. HRs only have three adjustment holes, unlike the GT3s.
The key to great times *(other than lots of track time) is the ability to dial in as much camber as possible and to dial out the added caster that the negative camber creates. I would run at 2.9-3.0 negative front on camber with caster set at stock values.
Here's the downer there... Front OEM camber adjustment maxes at 1.5 negative and there is NO adjustment for caster. NONE. You must buy adjustable thrust bushings to dial out the added caster.
On the rear, I ran 2.5 negative. This worked very well for tire wear on my MPSCs both front and rear. The toe was set to Zero front and 5mm toe IN at the rear.
When I was starting out with this car two years ago, I didn't have the "need" for more negative camber, and I wasn't killing the outter edges of my MPSCs. However, by beginning of the second season I started cording tires. The outter edges would start wearing faster. This was directly linked to my lap times. The faster I was going into and thru the corners, the quicker a set of tires would start to show severe wear on the outter edges. I used a pyrometer with a probe to find that the outside 1/3rd of the tire would be as much as 50 degrees higher than the rest... The inner edge was the coolest. What I did to help with this was to get some GT3 front control arms, and Dan at Vivid hooked me up with some of his rear dogbones. I had Lufteknic do a full track alignment for me and instantly I was quicker. Timing was good because I bought a Traqmate just 2 events before doing the suspension upgrades and I could compare all of the data from those events to the events where I was running more negative camber with a more aggressive overall alignment. The results were very eye opening...
Mike
Last edited by Mikelly; 02-28-2009 at 05:04 AM.
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#8
Uh, Yea, Sure it is...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qC0TgSgBcwE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVLQRnDHgvU
And look at this video link... Do I look like my PSS9S are holding me up? REALLY?
Pure internet myth. PERIOD!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qC0TgSgBcwE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVLQRnDHgvU
And look at this video link... Do I look like my PSS9S are holding me up? REALLY?
Pure internet myth. PERIOD!
And wy are you say reduse caster that are the wrong way to go, aroung 9 degrees are right and up tp 11 are used on cup and rsr car..
#9
SMR, I'm not going to argue with you. My proof is in the setup that is working for me.
And there is no appreciable adjustment in caster from the factory. So when you cram a whole lot of negative camber into the setup the front wheels get pushed into the front fenderliners. THAT is a problem. Maybe not for you, but for the rest of us, it is a big deal. The geometry of the TT won't allow you to follow the "cup car" standard. But hey, whatever floats your boat.
Mike
And there is no appreciable adjustment in caster from the factory. So when you cram a whole lot of negative camber into the setup the front wheels get pushed into the front fenderliners. THAT is a problem. Maybe not for you, but for the rest of us, it is a big deal. The geometry of the TT won't allow you to follow the "cup car" standard. But hey, whatever floats your boat.
Mike
#10
SMR, I'm not going to argue with you. My proof is in the setup that is working for me.
And there is no appreciable adjustment in caster from the factory. So when you cram a whole lot of negative camber into the setup the front wheels get pushed into the front fenderliners. THAT is a problem. Maybe not for you, but for the rest of us, it is a big deal. The geometry of the TT won't allow you to follow the "cup car" standard. But hey, whatever floats your boat.
Mike
And there is no appreciable adjustment in caster from the factory. So when you cram a whole lot of negative camber into the setup the front wheels get pushed into the front fenderliners. THAT is a problem. Maybe not for you, but for the rest of us, it is a big deal. The geometry of the TT won't allow you to follow the "cup car" standard. But hey, whatever floats your boat.
Mike
Yes the front feders will get rubb but that life when racing, the car will behave alot better with more caster, or if the fenderliners are your bigg problem go with mantley yoppmonts then you can adjust caster up there without moving the wheel forward, i have worked on this suspetion for years now and a friend of mine worked with setting up RSr at le mans before so he know his game