996 Turbo / GT2Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2004 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2. Sponsored By Vivid Racing
Welcome to 6SpeedOnline.com!
Welcome to 6SpeedOnline.com.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join 6SpeedOnline.com today!
I had the same issue; I ground the the head of my wrench.
Quote:
Originally Posted by D_Nyholm
Mike,
THanks for the write up. I went out recently and replaced my slave and accumulator and had a tough time tightening up the accumulator. I had to purchase a new 27mm wrench, and I couldn't get it situated at all the tighten it. For one, it wouldn't fit in the space between the accumulator and the slave, and it was way too long to fit around the transmission. I used a strap type oil filter wrench to tighten as much as I could. After a bunch of bleeding knuckes (even with mechanics gloves on) I figure I have it tight enough. How tight are you making the accumulator? Do you think I should be worried?
Yup, Danyol has it... You have to make this wrench fit within the space of the boss on the accumulator... Grinding it down to fit (both side) and dipping it in water to help keep some of the strength of the wrench in tact is the key.
You'll spend an hour making that damned wrench... If you had an old slave laying around, you could clearance the wrench on the new accumulator and old slave, but most people don't (I'm the odd ball as I have TWO laying around)!
I would modify the wrench and tighten it further... It's that last 1/8th of a turn that really is important... Mine backed out on me because I "thought" it was tight enough... Never again.
Mike
__________________ UMW Tuned K16-24 Turbos/Wastegates/5Bar FPR, Bailey DVs, VIVID Carbon Lid and SAMCO boost hoses!
FWIW, that accumulator on my car snugged up with a 7/8ths wrench in a pinch. No slippage and it was a thin wrench. I will need to double check it to ensure it's mucho' tight but as of right now it feels pretty good!
If your accumulator loosened up on you, it's most likely bad, as in the whole unit. I would recommend buying and installing a new one. Did your pedal get really hard on you while driving or did you just notice fluid leaking?
This unit really requires more torque than you may think... I get it as tight as I can with that 27MM wrench and then I use a cheater bar to snug it the rest of the way down tight, which is about an extra 1/4 turn.
BLKMGK, yours used a 7/8th wrench (as did the first one I replaced) because it was the original unit that came on the car. There is a newer piece that will require a 27mm wrench, as Danyol shows above in his picture... Sears sells it cheap, then you have to grind it down to fit.
Mike
__________________ UMW Tuned K16-24 Turbos/Wastegates/5Bar FPR, Bailey DVs, VIVID Carbon Lid and SAMCO boost hoses!
I just replaced the accumulator last summer.
My car sounded funny so I pulled over and then all the fluid started gushing out. I did leave a long trail from my garage though.
When I took it off the o-ring was ripped. How did my accumulator go bad?
I can't just ge another o-ring?
THANK YOU!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikelly
If your accumulator loosened up on you, it's most likely bad, as in the whole unit. I would recommend buying and installing a new one. Did your pedal get really hard on you while driving or did you just notice fluid leaking?
This unit really requires more torque than you may think... I get it as tight as I can with that 27MM wrench and then I use a cheater bar to snug it the rest of the way down tight, which is about an extra 1/4 turn.
BLKMGK, yours used a 7/8th wrench (as did the first one I replaced) because it was the original unit that came on the car. There is a newer piece that will require a 27mm wrench, as Danyol shows above in his picture... Sears sells it cheap, then you have to grind it down to fit.
Mike
__________________
2002 911 Turbo
1996 Supra Turbo =(
1994 Supra Turbo
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
I don't know of a part number for the o-ring, so I can't give it to you. However, when my new accumulator loosened up on me (*was on the car about 2 months), I tried to bleed it and it wouldn't bleed properly... What My INDY told me was that the bladder probably ruptured when the unit loosed, which apparently is common. This is why it is so important to follow the instructions and make sure you REALLY tighten it down "extra" tight. Also why I use that cheater bar for the last 1/4 "turn"!
Mike
__________________ UMW Tuned K16-24 Turbos/Wastegates/5Bar FPR, Bailey DVs, VIVID Carbon Lid and SAMCO boost hoses!
I don't know of a part number for the o-ring, so I can't give it to you. However, when my new accumulator loosened up on me (*was on the car about 2 months), I tried to bleed it and it wouldn't bleed properly... What My INDY told me was that the bladder probably ruptured when the unit loosed, which apparently is common. This is why it is so important to follow the instructions and make sure you REALLY tighten it down "extra" tight. Also why I use that cheater bar for the last 1/4 "turn"!
Mike
I'll just order a new one because I dont want the hassle of doing this again. I never replaced my slave. Could the slave be causing this?
How do I know if it's bad or not?
Thanks again for all your help.
__________________
2002 911 Turbo
1996 Supra Turbo =(
1994 Supra Turbo
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Mike....for those of us who don't happen to have another accumulaor lying around to measure the thickness to grind down the wrench to...roughly how many millimeters is do you grind down the head of the 27 mm wrench...and how long is the handle that you cut off...this may sound lame, but rather than fake it and go back and forth to the fitting, I'd appreciate it if you could put a mike on it and come up with the answer fairly easily.
BTW...plus rep for the great writeup. Think how much money this will save guys over the long haul....dealerships charge anywhere from $500-1000 for this job that really only requires them to rack it up and use a mechanic whose done this before...and they probably run thru the process in 20 minutes. Not a bad return...works out to be about $450 an hour or more.
__________________
2002 996TT X50, Midnight Blue; Europipe stage 1; 18" CCW CNC Wheels; EVO DV's; EVO GT2 headers; UMW tune and Wastegate kit; Sachs GT2 clutch kit; 997 shifter; factory aero and CF interior.
1987 930S factory slantnose cab; Guard's red all original (till it comes back from the builder on 5/5, then I'll have to change my description of "all original")
1999 996 C2 Iris Blue; caught fire and burned 9/07.
My front reservoir always stays full. When I replaced my accumulator last it was still full.
I'm just looking for signs of a bad slave. Can anyone chime in?
__________________
2002 911 Turbo
1996 Supra Turbo =(
1994 Supra Turbo
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Thanks for the write up...
Just curious about the power bleeder. Is there fluid in the power bleeder or is it just air?.... reason i am asking is when you open the bleeder screw wouldn't the reservoir be empty therefore get air in the system... or would you just bleed it with 10 PSI for 20 sec and there is still enough in the reservoir so it doesn't get bubles... Hope that made sense. lol.
Also would it be just possible to gravity bleed it rather than using a power bleeder and top it off as the reservoir is low on fluid...
Thanks in advance.
Linear Mode
