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996 Turbo / GT2Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2004 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2. Sponsored By Vivid Racing
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I have 8000K low beams installed and some aftermarket Xenon Fog lights until today when I upgraded the fog lights to a new slim HID system with matching 8000K fog lights. What a pain in the butt to get the ballast and wires to fit into the space for where the headlight goes....But after 45 mintues I got it to work.
Also a just a note, the to keep the bulbs in the right spot I had to use some zip ties and metal wire as the stock Fog light retainer clip won't fit over the HID H3 bulb with the wires sticking off the back.
Good News: There just as bright as my headlights and work great! Awesome upgrade for dark roads.
Bad News: I just noticed that when you switch on the fog lights once in a while i get a battery light and Oil lamp light on the dash, lol. Weird. I turn off the lights and switch everything back on immediately and its back to normal.
I first noticed this when I pushed in the clutch pedal to start the car and turn the lights on and off a couple times to see what the lights look like on the road. I have the clutch pedal bypassed so you don't have to push it in to start, so I thought that triggered something but I think turning the fog lights off and on several times after there on triggers the 2 lights to come on. If I just turn on the low beams and and pull the switch for the fogs then its fine. Strange stuff though.
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That's kinda weird, reminds me of my car before I had it rewired. Hit the left turn signal and the windshield wipers came on, want to turn on the heater, had to hit the horn. Listen to music, turn on the flashers lol just kidding, but yeah something's not right. Did you use a relay?
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Current Cars:
-'72 RS Clone w/964 3.6liter, approx 2,300lbs
I didn't add on any kind of additional relay. Is I wouldn't even know where the added relay would go. Between ballast and stock wiring maybe? I need to drive with them on a little more to see if there is a pattern.
As far as I can tell there fine if I turn on the car with fogs immediately its fine. If I turn off the fogs with the low beams still on, and then the fogs back on again, it trips some kind of circuit, lol.
Edit: I tried it as above and no problem. I'm thinking that toggling them back and forth after running may be the culprit. I'll take some pics here shortly.
Last edited by Soundeffects; 01-03-2010 at 03:05 PM.
Use a relay dude, it's drawing all that power through the stock wiring and I'm pretty sure HID draw more than stock power. I've seen what happens when wiring and switches are overdrawn - not good.
Is it a single 35watt or a pair? And what does it draw when it powers up? I seem to recall that HID draw a great deal of power striking the arc and then drop their power needs down. What the bulb is powered at isn't what the unit draws either unless you have measured it. Is it at least drawing through the stock fuse? Note that it's already tripping something - possibly because of the draw as it powers up or perhaps some RFI. It is obviously not acting as stock - that's the clue phone ringing and if you choose to ignore it that's up to you. however having chased shorts from melted wires in th emiddle of a harness I can tell you that it is NO fun nor is it safe. Be careful please.
Edit: Ah, as I suspected - it spikes amperage as it strikes the arc and then it drops ->
Is it a single 35watt or a pair? And what does it draw when it powers up? I seem to recall that HID draw a great deal of power striking the arc and then drop their power needs down. What the bulb is powered at isn't what the unit draws either unless you have measured it. Is it at least drawing through the stock fuse? Note that it's already tripping something - possibly because of the draw as it powers up or perhaps some RFI. It is obviously not acting as stock - that's the clue phone ringing and if you choose to ignore it that's up to you. however having chased shorts from melted wires in th emiddle of a harness I can tell you that it is NO fun nor is it safe. Be careful please.
Edit: Ah, as I suspected - it spikes amperage as it strikes the arc and then it drops ->
This might explain some of the strange things you are seeing and would be insulated if using a relay...
Your video is the EXACT reason why you NEED a relay to remove a current draw from the factory wiring harness and pull from the battery! This is what my wiring instructions are for.
i'm not sure as to why you would want 8000K for lighting, because it significantly reduces the visible lumens at that temperature. i guess if you like it for show, blue lighting would look cool, but just be careful when it is raining because your lighting will be horrible and you will have a hard time seeing. not knocking on you for choosing 8000k for your headlights and fogs, but just letting you know how it can have a negative effect for driving at night
8000K HIDS in the low beams didn't make a huge difference but was a little brighter than the stock HIDs. The fog lights in 8000K HIDs were night and day different, I can't even explain how much of a difference. They work good.
I do agree a relay may be best based on the initial ignitor load. How should I run the relay? From the battery seems like a lot of work. Couldn't I run a relay under the dash by the fuse somehow and keep the wires hidden easier? Basically run a beefier relay to the stock wiring for the fogs or would that just defeat the purpose because its still on the stock wiring.
I suppose I can run it from the battery but what gauge -12 maybe?
You will want to add the relay at the fog light location under the hood. Just pull out the headlight again and grab the oem fog light 12volt pin on the factory plug and connect it to pin 86 on the relay. Then follow the rest of the wiring instructions i gave. The battery is right there. Fuse it and use AWG 10 or 12 gauge wire.
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