Has anyone ever had BOTH bank codes pop simultaneously on their car? I just finished putting this motor back in after the rebuild and it was timed using the factory tooling/proceedure(thanks to TIm941NYC ) However after running for ~15minutes here those codes, along with p0045, pinged off on the scanner. The N75 code I'm not worried about but this cam scenario I am.

The actuators were extracted from the heads, very carefully, and did not snap but how does one know if they're truely damaged beyond use to begin with? Does anyone know of a test procedure for them? I'm crossing my fingers that the issue lies with them and not the cams themselves. I cannot see how the actual hard timing can be off after using the factory timing jigs and factory manual procedure.

Tech thoughts appreciated.

 

So the N75 valve actually works, when off the car testing via direct power, but throws the code for circuit incomplete. I have yet to actually test the damn cam actuator solenoids but does anyone know if these two components function off a common power feed or ground?

I do not have the wiring diagrams for this car to chase this myself, unless someone has a link to a site or PDF somewhere(2002 Turbo, N.American)

 

Thanks Tony, nixes that issue for now. Just have to figure a way for it to not pop a code so the car can get inspected up here in NY for Chris. Even If I have to find a way to manually "unwire" the meth brain, reset codes, drive lightly until the ready monitors go active/get inspection, then hook back up. Unless you know of something easier.

Cam issue though..... pissing me off. Motor runs great at idle, but is nowhere near ready to even attempt a load drive yet. Hammer was stolen years ago and don't have a durametric either so I can't trip the solenoids while engine running to see if they're actually working or not(actuator solenoids, not the lift solenoids by the coils). Figures it has to be the $%^@#%^@ ones to get at and remove, have to drain coolant and pop hoses just to even attempt to get at them w/o dropping the motor again.

 

Will do Tony, thanks.

Now back onto the cam crap. Dreading the thought that I may have to pull this thing out and order new bolts and retime the cams again.

 

0-8.4

P0022

Position of Camshaft in Relation to Crankshaft, Bank 2
– Above Limit
Diagnosis conditions
•

Idle speed

•

Reference mark recognized

•

Engine speed between 600 rpm and 1200 rpm.

•

Engine temperature greater than 40 °C

•

No fault in camshaft position sensors

•

No fault with reference mark

•

No fault in camshaft adjustment

•

No fault in engine temperature

•

No fault in camshaft adjustment output stage

Possible fault cause
♦

Solenoid hydraulic valve camshaft adjustment faulty
♦ Allocation of camshaft to inlet camshaft incorrect

Diagnosis/Troubleshooting

Work instruction Display OK If not OK

1 Check solenoid hydraulic
valve camshaft adjustment

♦

Remove connector on solenoid
hydraulic valve

♦

Connect special tool 9675 to
the solenoid hydraulic valve and
to a power supply.

♦

Connect oscilloscope or engine
tester to the special tool 9675

♦

Set 12 V

♦

See Figure 1.

♦

Set switch on special tool 9675
to 1
See Figure 2

Step 2
Replace solenoid
hydraulic valve

→End

 

Thanks for posting the diag reference. I'm crossing my fingers that this is the case and that somehow by sheer chance both actuators are screwed up, but in the back of my head I have a funny feeling it's not. I do not have tool 9675 to test the solenoids with, but did use my test harness I have for quickly testing the N75/cycling valves on the car, which has the same Bosch connector.


What are they referring to in figure 2 with this statement?:

"Set switch on special tool 9675
to 1
See Figure 2"

Before dropping the motor out to check the timing again, I guess I'll try and locate a shop or dealer that I can ship the actuators too and have them tested with above diag procedure and 9675. If they come back bad, yay. If they're good, then I know I'm back into it deeper.

If anyone here reading this CAN do the test procedure for the cam actuator solenoid valves and advise me if they're good/bad, please contact me and let me know how I can go about getting them to you to be tested/price/turnaround/etc. The local dealer here isn't equipped for this. They didn't even have the timing tools


Tony, I was an idiot and didn't plug the IAT back in when putting the ypipe back on after checking the actuator valves. Frustration setting in making me blind I guess. Do appreciate the chat though!

 

Hi Fig 1 is a drawing showing the oscilloscope and fig 2 is a hand drawn graph of how the voltage rises as the magnetic field in the actuators increases against the spring load . The text to go with the drawing is:

of the coil

However I cant copy a PDF drawing. It wont copy across for some reason.
I got the data from the 996tt workshop manual. 0-8.7 page 2.
Sorry that's all I can past across.


Its this statement here:

Possible fault cause

♦

Solenoid hydraulic valve camshaft adjustment faulty

Allocation of camshaft to inlet camshaft incorrect

Have you allocated the camshaft to inlet camshaft correctly............whatever that means. But having just built the engine, it looks a probable error to make?????

I wouldn't mine knowing what that means my self.

 

could the cam timing be off....At this point anything is entirely possible however I cannot see how off it could be. I brought the entire engine down to Long Island and met up with another member from this site(Tim941NYC) who had the factory cam timing jig plates and related tools. Used new bolts for the cam gears. Used to own the tools myself(were stolen from me).


In a nut shell the procedure was:

-Set crank TDC#1 and pre-aligned cams to fit the jig.
-Fit cy1-3 jig and plates and lock the cams
-Tension timing chain
-Set intake variocam mechanism to full advance lock(turning to full lock counter clockwise) and while countering the mechanism torque the cam bolt to 22ftlbs, then counter the exhaust gear and torque to 22ftlsb.
-Yield the intake bolt 170degrees and the exhaust bolt 90 degrees for the final torque.
-Remove locking plates and rotate motor 720 degrees, refit locking plates and check that they align with the cams
-Rotate engine 360 degrees and repeat for the cyl 4-6 bank.

With the factory tooling, the procedure is really straight forward.

The motor runs fine at idle and blipping up through the rpm range. the codes will not pop up until you dip into the throttle and bring the rpm up to about 4K and let it drop down. Car is still up in the air, have yet to drive it but even them I would be getting on it hard for awhile until the motor breaks in good.

 

Is it possible for the solenoid unplugged? I would check the easy stupid things first. Most shop manuals are not very helpful at troubleshooting unplugged things. Just broken things.

 

Yeah that was what first crossed my mind. I actually made a tool today that allowed me to physically unscrew and remove the solenoids from the tops of the heads without having to undo anything other than the airbox and y-pipe. They were plugged in prior to removal, and I made a note to listen for the audible click to be sure the harness was fully fastened after I installed them.

Aside from either testing these to determine their condition, or just throwing new ones in I have nowhere else to go with it aside from dropping the motor and doing this all over again(would have to drop it as I'd have to take the engine down to Tim again(that is if he is gracious enough to have to deal with me again ) have to buy new cam bolts before I can even think about doing that yet.

 

the fact that both banks are giving you codes is a bad sign... I see one sensor or solenoid going bad etc but not both at the same time...

 

If the cam was not advancing I think it would be backfiring through the intake at ideal and you would be get misfires and cam sync codes at idle. That is what was happening to me when the one sealing ring on the bank two intake cam diapered. I think it may have to do with the high lift oil galley's being blocked. Maybe gasket for cam tower upside down? I am not sure if they are marked. I will check and see if I can modify the solenoid to allow you to add air to the solenoid to lifter side with air, that way you can see if the psi bleeds down it is going to the lifters. If not you found it.

 

I know those gaskets are left/right and have a specific way the go on. You can see the slight indent in their surface where they cover the machine oil galleys that direct the oil flow.

On the BMW's with Vanos I made a tool up that allowed me to pressurize the vanos piston with air and actuate the cam advance/retard to check it's function. I could try to do the same for this car but would have to block off any oil feed to the solenoid area so any air doesn't bleed down through there into the main oil galley.

I pulled the cam actuators out and they are wet with oil, but as you stated they made not be sending it to the vario mechanism chamber if the passage is blocked off.

The car does go through it's rpm up/down fluctuation there when you first start it, and the codes do not come about until you blip the throttle off idle to about 3k rpms. At this point it looks like I'm pulling the motor out and tearing the cam towers off, but I'll do some tests with the valve covers off before digging too far back into it. I've built a few of these motors before and have always been wary about those damn tower base gaskets but I'm at a loss at this point and just need to take action.

Have to order new cam bolts now. FML.

 

Tim are you talking about putting air through the actuator solenoid ports(on top) or via the lift solenoids on the sides near the coils?

 

Get somebody with durametric and actually log the cam positions with the engine idling and revving to actuate variocam timing and see if the cam timing matches from side to side. If the cams are not being properly actuated you should be able to see it while logging.