Rear toe links...check them

 

I believe I'm going to have to take a closer look at them. They don't feel loose when tugging on them by hand, but it does feel like the rear wheels are trying to steer the car.

Thanks,
Steve

 

They get loose under load and the *** end wonders, get some locking plates from Tarret.

 

Quite a difference between the forces you can exert when tugging on suspected suspension components vs. what they experience from the forces generated by a 420hp engine in a 3400lb car.

When I test (tug on) suspension components, I do what I have observed the techs do, and this is get all medieval on the things and really give them a hard tug or push, a series of these. I have observed techs checking for loose suspension components and they use a lot of muscle/force and the car can move around quite a bit from this.

 

Will I need adjustable toe links with the locking plates?

 

Called Tarett and got the answer to my question. I will need the locking plates and adjustable toe links to replace the eccentric cam bolts.

Later, Steve

 

Okay, this has been going on for over two years now and I'm posting my experience to see it other have the issues.

Let me update everyone on what I've learned. The car will do this is 2nd (very seldom), in 3rd (regularly) and has done it in 4th (though I don't spend a lot of time near redline in 4th). I believe it does it in 3rd the most, because the tail wagging has more time to develop.

It appears that it need a little "help" to get the motion started, but then it gets worse and worse until you let off the gas. When I say "help", i'm referring to uneven pavement, exiting a turn, an alignment that is off, inconsistent tire pressure from left to right, etc. With all of these items perfect, it tracks straight.

I initially thought the issue was the alignment as the eccentric bolts for the toe links would slip. Given this, we over-tightened and marked the bolts during an alignment. When the tail wagging happened again, I took the car back to the shop to see if the bolts had slipped. The toe was again off, but the toe link eccentric bolts had NOT slipped. We scratched our heads and then the technician moved the eccentric bolt for the camber adjustment. A small movement in this bolt actually effected the toe more than it did the camber. At this point we corrected the alignment, over-tightened and marked these eccentric bolts.

When my car again exhibited the problem, we checked all four eccentric bolts and none had slipped. All suspension bolts, drop links and bushing have been checked and no issues have been found. FYI we used a very long pry bar to put a load on the bushings and none had excessive movement.

Next I'm going to unhook the PSM pump and see if that makes a difference.

I thought it may be useful to list my setup. If you have the issue, please list the same data so we can see if everyone has something in common. You may want to check your car, because it's not noticeable in regular driving or during most 1st/2nd gear full throttle blasts.

Do a full throttle pull to redline in third gear. Try to do this on a road that isn't perfectly smooth/even. This isn't subtle, you will know beyond a shadow of a doubt if it happens. I believe several people will find this issue and I also believe others that thought it was fixed (like me) will find it isn't.

PSS10's
H&R rear swaybar, but it also occurred with a GT3 rear bar set to stock turbo stiffness.
PSS 245/35R19 front (25.8") and 295/30R19 rear (26")
515 wtq.

Thanks, Steve

 

Wandering toe is your problem. Replace the soft rear LCA thrust arm bushings with solid pucks along with replacing the inner rubber bushings with monoball. This will lock down your toe and the problem will be all but eliminated... Added NVH is negligible.. Make sure your rear toe is set to +0.15' per side (+0.30' total).

 

I agree that's what it feels like. Did you have this same issue before changing your suspension?

I'm surprised a lot more people aren't having this issue, given all the high hp cars on this forum.

 

Yes same issue. My car had the same exact behavior you describe when I bought it years ago. I would suspect the higher mileage cars may be more susceptible to this as the OEM rubber bushing degrade with time and use. Then again, my car only had 29K miles when I bought it.

 

My car does exactly this. Just developed in the last 300 miles before I put it away for winter. Thought it might be my OE engine mounts so i have RSS ones ready to install.

Weird thing is I just redid my entire suspension last season and have about 2k miles on the setup and I put tarret rear solid LCA thrust arm bushings in it already?

Does Tarret make the inner bushings as well?

 

This what you're recommending pwdrhound? http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...001-detail.htm

 

This may be a cheap fix for me. I already have lower control arms with solid thrust arm bushings with the inner bushings replaced with monoball. I'm going to move the stock rear control arms to the front and my upgraded front control arms to the rear.

Did you do anything with the rear toe link or bushing?

Thanks for the help,
Steve

 

Correct. Here are the stock LCAs modded with the Tarett pieces. I sold these off my car when I swapped to the Motorsport arms.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/p17398]

 

I have the PMNA 997Cup toe arms. They are monoball on both ends with with bump steer and a pinch lock adjustment.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/oJvntn]


[url=https://flic.kr/p/oMH2A5]