+1 for an aftermarket EMS -- I'm most familiar with the ProEFI, and know in addition to Boost by Gear, it also has an TC strategy that maintains boost, keeps the throttle open, but reduces slip by adjusting ignition (low traction, low ignition --> as the car hooks, it ramps up the ignition). I'm 99% sure that Motec, Syvecs, AEM all have something similar.

Also remember ProEFI posting a video with a sensor that'd measure "nose angle." It was basically taking their TC to the next level, and if the front went up it'd reduce ignition until the car came down and feed the power back in.

 

Older video (2010) illustrating the ProEFI TC

 

I'd also say that the best for traction is a LSD and good EMS for TC.

The second best way is softer suspension to give you some squat, big sticky tires along with the LSD. LSD and Suspension might be best bang for your buck at this point.

 

Standalone is out right now......may do a better boost controller with boost by gear.

As of now its rebuild the suspension and do LSD.......in conjunction I am doing more engine mods this winter so thats why the budget is limited on this end.

 

Totally understand...I did standalone and now saving up for an LSD and suspension. Not like I can put any big power down anyways without those two things.

 

R888 (or DRs) and LSD in RWD mode will give you more grip than you need, psm off and go! no need for expensive stuff like standalones or fancy stuff, not saying they are useless, but not making a huge difference, maybe on street tires only..

Even on poor grip roads and moderate/cold temps will put down 2nd gear and above even at 800+hp, need more ? put some DRs and improve that, this is my experience and opinion.. I put down 2nd gear and above with MT ET streets II @900+ whp and 6dgrs C outside temps (dont know in F) on a regular street

 

Identical results to below, LSD was the key factor as nothing else changed. I came from open diff similar to your setup.

 

You can have boost by gear and launch and flat shift with the DME !!!!!

 

the main difference is the wavetrac is warranted to 1000 hp and the guard isn't. the wavetrac is 1200$ and the guard is what almost 3k$? when the wavetrac is installed on street car you barely know its there in terms of cornering. no way you miss having a full guard unit in the car. i broke a wavetrac and my buddy broke his (actually the ring gear broke jamming the diff). wavetrac said send it back they opened both units inspected and replaced any suspect parts and no cost. shipping was on us.

 

but I've heard of plenty Wavetracs breaking, but have not heard of Guards having the same issue...it's like bad hand tools, lifetime warranty is great-and feel free to keep breaking them...until you get hurt...
You can feel a clutch type diff working and it adds tons of stability to 911's...as they are 'working' full time, power, coast, decel.
Porsche's solution to their fast 911's..the 935...was a spool diff.
Any LSD will be beneficial to getting power down

 

I haven't heard of anyone roll racing break one. Plus some people are putting through big power......

 

Spool diff?? Really?? I bet driveability is a little rough. Very interesting.

 

I have 3 years of hard track use on my Guard billet LSD and it's still performing flawlessly. Really an amazing product worth every penny. I think it was about $4k plus install. The diff does such a good job transferring torque to the loaded wheel that I've broken 2 rear hubs over the last year. I keep joking about asking Guard to pay for them... If you are a track rat and serious about the best diff out there go with a clutch type LSD like the Guard of the PMNA Cup diff. Ramps and preload are your choice on the Guard. The billet Guard has a forged chromoly body while the Porsche diff is cast. For street use and straight line the Guard or Cup diff is probably overkill and the wavetrack torque bias diff is an economical choice that offers a lot of benefit over an open diff. Many here run those and like them. You will not find a TBD on any competitive race Porsche however, they will all have LSDs for good reason.

If there are reports of several Wave tracks TBDs breaking as posted by 32Krazy, that would give me serious pause in choosing said diff. I am not aware of a single failure on Guard billet diff and they are used in the harshest environments out there. It would be a real bummer to grenade a gearbox or even the R&P due to a bum diff that gives up the ghost. Such happened with the Gikken diffs when they tried to break (no pun intended) into the Porsche market and experienced a number of documented failure$ causing a lot of carnage. They never really recovered from that and you will be hard pressed to find those on Porsches now. Lifetime warranty is great but I would rather spend a little more and choose a product without a record of failures. Spending a little more up front sometimes turns out a lot cheaper in the long run. That's just me however but I'm hard on equipment and look at things a little differently than most....and I stayed at a Holiday Inn last night.

 

Racers on TI ( last week ) highly recommend the new MT ET Street R

 

lol, wasn't suggesting that for this case, just offering a point of view.
935's were a case of overkill in many ways...a friend of mine was Motorsports/factory-trained 935 team mechanic when they were current racers(southern Ontario guys may know who I'm talking about)
the overbuilt 930 driveline bits are direct offspring of the 934/935 program
956/962 also used spools
some of these racecars have been converted to clutch style LSD as technology(strength) improved
+1, John.
The carnage a failed internal component can have, could easily destroy a gearbox, and in some failures could cause wheel lockup...kinda scary at big speed...


Better yet, for sake of performance characteristics, call Guard/GT and see what he recommends...makes both his renown clutch LSDs, as well as TBD/torsion style...