only the intake cam is variocam

 

Ok I have my heads finished finally, feels good to know my valves are totally fresh. My plan for torquing down the heads is as follows:

Use generous amounts of ARP lube on the threads.
Torque down the bolts 10lb ft at a time using the factory pattern until I get to around 55ft lb.
Let it sit for a day to let parts settle.
Loosen it up a small amount and torque back to 55ft lb.
Torque 1 nut to 85 ft lb and angle torque the rest to the same degree using the dial tq indicator. I may set at 60 instead of 55 depending on feel. This should give me an accurate even bolt stretch and alows me to maximize my head studs.

 

Also of note is that I am using a SRM Cometic head gasket. It seems like a real quality piece and it says NASCAR on the packaging so I know I am in good company. It is a bit thicker than the stocker so it should compensate for the 4 thousanths or so that I shaved off of my heads. It comes sized for 12mm studs so one less thing to worry about.

 

I am torqued to 60 ft lb. I've noticed that when the parts settle as the wrench turns it slips a bit. On the 60 ft lb pass only 1 nut out of 24 slipped just a bit. When I go for the final angle torque I will know if I am right if there is no slip of the wrench. If there is I am going to reset at 60 or maybe higher and try again. Here is a pic of my angle torque dial.

 

Head studs finished. I got no part settling after the last 2 passes so I think I am in good shape. I wound up torquing to 63ft lb and angle torqued another 47 degrees. Everything seems good so I'm on to the cams.

 

by doing the additional angle torque what do you think the final torque was?

 

ARP engineers called for 85 with these studs and I did 86. The first bolt I torqued for the final pass I used the torque wrench set at 86 along with the angle guage tool. The wrench clicked at 47 degrees so that is where I got that number from. There are no official angle torque specs for these studs so I had to figure for myself. 63 ft lb is the torque spec that I started to angle torque at because I was satisfied that I was getting bolt stretch rather than parts settling based on wrench feel. I then proceeded to torque all the other bolts to the same angle so everything should be precisely stretched the same as the first bolt. I double checked the first 5 bolts using the torque wrench along with the angle guage and it clicked anywhere from 44 degrees to over 47 where I stopped so I think my figures are accurate. I stopped at 47 degrees for every one. The problem with the torque wrench is that at very high torques the relation between bolt stretch and torque resistance can be inaccurate due to varying factors so it is best to angle torque the last pass for better accuracy. Bolts that are uniformly stretched will hold higher pressures over bolts that are not, so this method might buy a few hundred extra hp over a torque wrench method. These studs are mega overkill so it probably wont matter but I figure I should do it right anyways. For the 10mm studs angle torque is important as they are closer to the limits. I figure this is how timnyc is getting the 10mm racewears to hold when others can't. He must have developed a proper angle method. The service manual calls for a 90 degree angle torque as well for the stock studs.

 

i like the theory and sounds like a solid plan. you should get with sean and share this data with him. im sure he would appreciate it. cant wait until you get itn all together. i worked with sean and retimed my motor and it wasnt the hardest thing i have done. obviously setting up the tdc is critical but he has a solid way to find it. total cost was about 30$ for a dial indicator and mount.

 

Yes I've discussed it with him a few times. I'm going to wait until I've flown down the road going 190 and the thing has stayed together before I start talking a big game.

 

There are others here who should follow your example. One of them even knows Sean from what I have gathered....

 

Installed the chain box, chain guides, and cam towers. It all goes together nicely. As noted a few pages ago the MLS gasket for the towers is ambidextrious save for 1 hole, so it can be installed backwards by accident causing the variocam to malfunction. I've gone as far as I can go without any special tools which was one of the big scary reasons to not try this. I'm trying to get an appointment with EBS Racing to set my cams so hopefully this can be done soon.

 

Loving this, fingers crossed for you and looking forward to hearing how it runs!

 

actually yiu can install just about everything save the oil sump tank. install the cams and chains and lifters. they will be adjusted later with the tools. everything on top of the motor can be reinstalled. your on the home stretch now!

 

Seeing the motor in your kitchen in the last pic made me laugh. Again.

 

You mean "climate controlled clean room." Looks like October 8 @ EBS Racing. I tried to talk to my local P car dealer, they haven't been very cooperative so far but we'll see.