I'm interested as well. I like my AWD while driving, would be nice if it could provde better traction from a stop.

 

I can personally vouch for the SRM k2471 turbos (K24+). Been running them since march, and couldn't be happier, but ya, as Marksi said, if you plan on running high boost, do a tranny build. Not too expensive, and it makes a heck of a difference. Feels great. John at ITP can set you up.

 

Was gonna say, pretty sure EVOMS swapped a (probably upgraded) mechanical 996 diff into the Mayhem car and Anthony's 997 because it handled that high hp much better than the 997 electronic diff. Naturally, the biggest headache with teh swap is getting the CAN to play nice (i.e., standalone EMS) and a not trigger a billion dash lights.

 

Already standalone, not a problem Since the 996 is mechanical I wonder why you would get lights?

 

Very Happy still today with my past 18G upgrade with all supporting mods and dialed in to the tee.
I only run 93 octane pump gas .

 

I have a 01 manual AWD.

Here is my plan, going on this week.

Sam@ByDesign/TiAL A1668's (factory K-16 cartridges - rebuilt and upgraded to low tolerance K16/68mm Billet Hybrids), 5.7" Wagner intercoolers, IPD plenum and 74mm TB, COBB 1000cc injectors. Sachs clutch already done. A safe/reliable COBB tune from Sam to tie it all together.

Should be good for 650 - 700hp, depending on fuel.

 

No rods? How much can the stock bottom hold?

 

That would be the safe limit...with a good tune. Yes, these turbo's can hit hard. It's all in the tuning.

There are apparently cowboys out there that have caused problems by either just introducing methanol or tuning like a yahoo.

I have faith in Sam's experience and tuning. If he says we can make it work reliably, I trust him. He's done a lot of these. His reputation precedes him.

 

I see nothing wrong with the 996 mechanical AWD. It's relatively simple setup that maintains a RWD feel.

 

I think you're dead on the $ here for 996t, paid about that for my car and then did trans rebuild /lsd for ~$15k, UMW turbo's, exhaust, brakes, wheels, suspension, IC's, etc.
Adds up quick.

 

Starting from stock k16 you will need:
- another Exhaust
- better clutch
- tune

Starting from k24 you will need:
- another Exhaust
- upgrader clutch
- upgrade wastegates
- tune
I guess you can call this stage 1.

When you do upgrade the turbos you will need at least a fpr. The tune must reduce the torque wisely, cause otherwise you will have some banana-rods.

I would call this stage 2.

Stage 3 would be new rods tranny rebuild...

I am at stage 2 right now, with k24`s compressor wheel size 2480.
Works like this (car in video is not mine, but has the same turbos)
https://youtu.be/7BLSS5H9HpIhttps://youtu.be/7BLSS5H9HpI

 

If ur doing all that open the casing and replace the rods with something u wont bend.

 

Ha yah, the blown motor club if full of should have, would have, could haves. I always flash back to when I had my motor sitting there the first time with the coolant pipes off. It would have been so easy to rip the heads off and put some rods and studs in there, you don't even have to split the case to do it. This was back in 2013 so guys had not done the SRM home builds yet. For anyone else though, you have threads from vr6tee and jordanmusser in the 997 forum and my build here that show how to do it...

 

Guys remember bent rods and blown motors or nothing new. These cars have been banged on for over 15 years. It all comes down to the tuning. Sometimes it's not even the tuner but the way the customer might treat fuel and or a boost controller which I don't do. But there are literally hundreds if not thousands of cars out there running strong with proper tools that are safe. In the last few years you see more new guys pushing things and more engine reliability issues. The fact is if you deal with someone who has experience and you have a good discussion you should be fine. Turbo chargers don't bend rods, people do haha!

 

Bull **** Sam, Boost bends stock rods and if ur customer ads all that he says hes adding his rods will bend sooner or later. That I guarantee,.
My turbo had all those stated mods maybe a bit more maybe a bit less was tuned and tuned again then tuned some more by the original Porsche 996 Turbo tuning guru Todd K from Protomotive whom u know well, an excellent if not the best porsche tuner.
My Turbo with the billet k16s was f-ing quick all the logs were great and i like logging so id log just for fun then ask todd to check again and check some more and yep my logs were good as gold until one day crusing on the freeway down to see a mate in another state not going fast only about 140kph as i was in no rush and had my bulldog with me whos not keen on doing 200mph without a seat belt.
Anyway bloke in a ute an aussie typeof pick up thought he was fast so wanted to race i wasnt serious but this stupid bloke was annoying so thought id blow him off. From that 140kph crusing speed in 6th gear i just gently pushed the throttle pedal expecting to see the ute quickly disappearing in my rear vision mirror. But instead I saw a cloud of brown smoke and my check engine light flashed a couple of times and the ute had me in his rear vision mirror.
Those little k16 billets boost hard and fast and this time the stock rods could not take the abuse any longer and finally gave out.
Id been in the same situation before with utes ferraris gtrs everyone wants a crack at a 911 and the rods held time and time again but they will hold only for so long.

If your going to do massive injectors huge coolers throttle bodies y pipes and all rest of the rubbish you dont need.

For F**k sake replace the rods with carrilos protos, pewters or whatever and while the engine is apart u can replace all the seals fit a gt2 oil pump and have the heads ported and polished.

Otherwise get Sams k16/24s and save yourself the headache.