Any tips on bleeding the clutch?
#1
02-20-2017, 09:34 PM
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Austin
Posts: 1,115
Rep Power: 181 
Any tips on bleeding the clutch?
GT2 master/slave conversion. Clutchmaster Stage 2 disc. Everything working fine before I started the project
I was bleeding my clutch a couple days ago per the factory manual procedure. Everything seemed fine until I thought I was done and the pedal had no pressure. Dammit! My Motive pressure bleeder let in a massive air bubble when I wasn't looking.
I tried bleeding every combination of ways. Pressure. Vacuum. Rear end up. Front end up.
This morning I pulled the master to bench bleed it. Reinstalled. The gallons of DOT 4 I have put through it look clear. Fluid going in looks clear. Still no pressure.
Any trick to getting some trapped air out of this setup?
I was bleeding my clutch a couple days ago per the factory manual procedure. Everything seemed fine until I thought I was done and the pedal had no pressure. Dammit! My Motive pressure bleeder let in a massive air bubble when I wasn't looking.
I tried bleeding every combination of ways. Pressure. Vacuum. Rear end up. Front end up.
This morning I pulled the master to bench bleed it. Reinstalled. The gallons of DOT 4 I have put through it look clear. Fluid going in looks clear. Still no pressure.
Any trick to getting some trapped air out of this setup?
#3
02-20-2017, 09:49 PM
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Austin
Posts: 1,115
Rep Power: 181
The flow is fine. I'm getting gallons of fluid through the system, but there must be an air bubble trapped somewhere that the fluid is able to flow around.
#5
02-20-2017, 09:58 PM
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Austin
Posts: 1,115
Rep Power: 181
I have the GT2 conversion so reservoir up front going to the master, then master direct to slave.
#7
02-20-2017, 10:27 PM
work the pedal while bleeding it. There's a cup seal in there and fluid must be both behind and in front of it to work properly. I'm currently writing up my fun swapping a master out for a billet one - the Motive was required for sure!
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#8
02-21-2017, 07:42 AM
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Austin
Posts: 1,115
Rep Power: 181 If nothing working in the next couple days (only working a few minutes after work) I may take out the master again and rebleed it. Maybe air got back in it when I reinstalled in between taking the caps out and connecting the lines.
I look forward to your write up.
#9
02-21-2017, 04:41 PM
Write up is posted but I need to finish some that was lost.
With a suction bleeder I got a stream of fluid and then nothing, I even sucked on the damn hose myself and while I could get a good vacuum I didn't draw any more than a drop of nasty fluid out. It held vac too! I cranked the Motive to 20 and as soon as the valve cracked a blast of air blew out followed by fluid. I cycled a bunch of fluid through it to be sure. I still had no pressure until the cap was put on and the bleed sealed (duh). While I had a steady stream coming out of it I moved the pedal full cycle and saw some change in movement in the Motive hose - you should too.
Hope it's easily fixed for you! If you really find that the OEM piece is toast shoot me a PM. I've got two sitting now, I'd bought one on eBay previously hoping to mod it lol and obviously the one I just pulled. If you've got an aftermarket clutch though and it's quirky talk to Sean!
With a suction bleeder I got a stream of fluid and then nothing, I even sucked on the damn hose myself and while I could get a good vacuum I didn't draw any more than a drop of nasty fluid out. It held vac too! I cranked the Motive to 20 and as soon as the valve cracked a blast of air blew out followed by fluid. I cycled a bunch of fluid through it to be sure. I still had no pressure until the cap was put on and the bleed sealed (duh). While I had a steady stream coming out of it I moved the pedal full cycle and saw some change in movement in the Motive hose - you should too.
Hope it's easily fixed for you! If you really find that the OEM piece is toast shoot me a PM. I've got two sitting now, I'd bought one on eBay previously hoping to mod it lol and obviously the one I just pulled. If you've got an aftermarket clutch though and it's quirky talk to Sean!
#10
02-21-2017, 09:30 PM
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Austin
Posts: 1,115
Rep Power: 181 Write up is posted but I need to finish some that was lost.
With a suction bleeder I got a stream of fluid and then nothing, I even sucked on the damn hose myself and while I could get a good vacuum I didn't draw any more than a drop of nasty fluid out. It held vac too! I cranked the Motive to 20 and as soon as the valve cracked a blast of air blew out followed by fluid. I cycled a bunch of fluid through it to be sure. I still had no pressure until the cap was put on and the bleed sealed (duh). While I had a steady stream coming out of it I moved the pedal full cycle and saw some change in movement in the Motive hose - you should too.
Hope it's easily fixed for you! If you really find that the OEM piece is toast shoot me a PM. I've got two sitting now, I'd bought one on eBay previously hoping to mod it lol and obviously the one I just pulled. If you've got an aftermarket clutch though and it's quirky talk to Sean!
With a suction bleeder I got a stream of fluid and then nothing, I even sucked on the damn hose myself and while I could get a good vacuum I didn't draw any more than a drop of nasty fluid out. It held vac too! I cranked the Motive to 20 and as soon as the valve cracked a blast of air blew out followed by fluid. I cycled a bunch of fluid through it to be sure. I still had no pressure until the cap was put on and the bleed sealed (duh). While I had a steady stream coming out of it I moved the pedal full cycle and saw some change in movement in the Motive hose - you should too.
Hope it's easily fixed for you! If you really find that the OEM piece is toast shoot me a PM. I've got two sitting now, I'd bought one on eBay previously hoping to mod it lol and obviously the one I just pulled. If you've got an aftermarket clutch though and it's quirky talk to Sean!
I tried bleeding again tonight while working the pedal. Odd thing is it completely stopped flowing with pedal down but flowed fast pedal up. I pulled the master again, this time with the drivers seat removed and it was soooo much easier. I'll try bench bleeding again. If this doesn't work I'll try a new master.
#11
02-21-2017, 09:52 PM
Registered User
Never read the manual for this but this is pretty simple to bleed. Have a friend hold the clutch down, crawl under the car and crack the screw open and close to let some pressurized fluid out, tell friend to go up and down again, crack screw, repeat. Every so many times top off the res. Get kind of fast at it to get all the bubbles. Are you doing something significantly different from that?
#12
02-21-2017, 09:57 PM
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Austin
Posts: 1,115
Rep Power: 181 Never read the manual for this but this is pretty simple to bleed. Have a friend hold the clutch down, crawl under the car and crack the screw open and close to let some pressurized fluid out, tell friend to go up and down again, crack screw, repeat. Every so many times top off the res. Get kind of fast at it to get all the bubbles. Are you doing something significantly different from that?
30 01 07 Bleeding the clutch system − GT2
Note
Filling/bleeding
Note
The clutch hydraulics must always be filled or bled using a pressure filling and bleeding device.
Furthermore, the bleeder valve must be opened sufficiently and the gauge pressure must be approx.
2.0 bar.
·
If there is no system pressure, before the system is filled or bled, the clutch pedal must be in the
"Pedal fully depressed" position. In order to avoid risk of injury or damage, the pedal must be guided
manually. Otherwise, the clutch pedal can move forward abruptly (as a result of servo kinematic
effects).
·
If the system was open previously (e.g. for component replacement), the minimum filling or bleeding
time must be 30 seconds.
·
Use only new Super DOT 4 brake fluid. This brake fluid is available under the following part
numbers: container volume 1 litre = 000.043.203.66, container volume 30 litres = 000.043.203.67.
·
top of page
Filling/bleeding
DANGER
Please note: danger of injury from depressing the clutch pedal, if there is no system pressure. The clutch pedal
will move forward abruptly as a result of servo kinematic effects.
· If the clutch pedal is fully depressed, the pedal must be guided manually.
1. If there is no or only lower system pressure, depress the clutch pedal fully. Guide the clutch pedal
manually.
2. Connect a bleeding device to the brake fluid reservoir. Switch on the bleeding device. Bleeding pressure is
approximately 2.0 bar.
3. The bleeder valve from the clutch slave cylinder (on the transmission) must be opened until clear,
bubble−free brake fluid emerges. Use a collecting bottle for precise examination of the emergingbrake fluid for cleanliness and freedom from bubbles.
If the system was open previously (e.g. for component replacement), the minimum filling or bleeding
time must be 30 seconds.
·
4. Switch off and disconnect the bleeding device. Correct the brake fluid level if
necessary.
Note
Filling/bleeding
Note
The clutch hydraulics must always be filled or bled using a pressure filling and bleeding device.
Furthermore, the bleeder valve must be opened sufficiently and the gauge pressure must be approx.
2.0 bar.
·
If there is no system pressure, before the system is filled or bled, the clutch pedal must be in the
"Pedal fully depressed" position. In order to avoid risk of injury or damage, the pedal must be guided
manually. Otherwise, the clutch pedal can move forward abruptly (as a result of servo kinematic
effects).
·
If the system was open previously (e.g. for component replacement), the minimum filling or bleeding
time must be 30 seconds.
·
Use only new Super DOT 4 brake fluid. This brake fluid is available under the following part
numbers: container volume 1 litre = 000.043.203.66, container volume 30 litres = 000.043.203.67.
·
top of page
Filling/bleeding
DANGER
Please note: danger of injury from depressing the clutch pedal, if there is no system pressure. The clutch pedal
will move forward abruptly as a result of servo kinematic effects.
· If the clutch pedal is fully depressed, the pedal must be guided manually.
1. If there is no or only lower system pressure, depress the clutch pedal fully. Guide the clutch pedal
manually.
2. Connect a bleeding device to the brake fluid reservoir. Switch on the bleeding device. Bleeding pressure is
approximately 2.0 bar.
3. The bleeder valve from the clutch slave cylinder (on the transmission) must be opened until clear,
bubble−free brake fluid emerges. Use a collecting bottle for precise examination of the emergingbrake fluid for cleanliness and freedom from bubbles.
If the system was open previously (e.g. for component replacement), the minimum filling or bleeding
time must be 30 seconds.
·
4. Switch off and disconnect the bleeding device. Correct the brake fluid level if
necessary.
#14
02-21-2017, 11:33 PM
Get a Motive, how I've lived without one is a mystery. Now I just need to find caps for other vehicles that don't cost an arm and a leg. Worth sacrificing an OEM cap to ,are an attachment if it comes to it.