A Guide To A Rwd Conversion For The 996 Turbo

[joetwint]

Well I just converted my car to RWD and wanted to share with everyone how to do this on your 996 turbo.It is an easy job using only simple hand tools and basically involves just removing components as there are no parts required: Step 1:remove the 3 plastic underbody panels.this involves removing all the 10mm plastic nuts holding them on(there are several)and the stainless clips holding the underbody panel on directly under the front suspension. Step 2:remove the driveshaft.there are three bolts connecting the output shaft of the transmission to the driveshaft.Once removed slide the shaft towards the rear of the car and remove it fom the front diff. Step 3:remove the tank straps.There are two of them which are held on by two bolts at the rear and....once the two bolts are removed they can be slid out of the slots that are holding them in the front sub support Step 4:remove the front sub braces.This is simple enough(only four bolts holding them in)and there are 2 of them. Step 5:remove the inner axle bolts holding the inner cv joint to the diff.They are allen head bolts ...6 per side,be careful not to strip the heads. Step 6:remove the diff.This requires having a tranny jack or a good friend to help with holding the diff while you remove the rear crossmember holding the rear of the diff and the two nuts holding the font of the diff.It helps to remove the studs that are screwed into the font support after removing the nuts,this way the diff can be just lowered down and does not need to be slid backwards as there isn't much room with the coolant supply/return in the way. Step 7:seperate the outer CV joints from the hub.This is by far the biggest pain in the ass of the whole conversion.The CV joints do not want to come apart LOL,you basically have to break them apart from the wheel hub.It requires time, patience,protective eyewear,and a dremel with a cutoff wheel helps.LOL.You can either remove the axle and hub as an assembly and then seperate or seperate them while the hub is still attached to the car.the hubs need to remain in the car in order for your PSM to be operational and to hold your front wheels LOL.... on so don't damage the hub itself.Check pictures! Step 8:clean the grease off the hub or it will probably end up on your front brakes and rotors. step 9:reinstall rear diff crossmember....this also holds up the supply/return coolant hard piping step 10:reinstall the tank straps,front sub braces,and 3 plastic underbody panels.Check that everything is secure and that there is no binding of the front wheels. Weights= diff>52lbs axles>5.5lbsx2=11lbs driveshaft>9lbs misc bolts>1lb Total=73lbs http://www.putfile.com/joetwint/images/101087

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[LUISGT3]

Joe,
Have you run it in up there in the lower altitudes yet?

[996TTDave]

wow only 73 lbs...i thought it would SO much more - how do you like the RWD set up now? Handling wise and what not?!

[joetwint]

Originally Posted by LUIS95993

Joe,
Have you run it in up there in the lower altitudes yet?

Tonight for the first time....just on the street in RWD only.....totally different experience in RWD to say the least,intense when your going sideways at 80mph.No fun trying to do 60-130's going sideways in the dark.I need some seat time.lol

[Craig]

Very cool stuff Joe.

Craig

[Lounge Lizard]

Good thread!

How does this effect PSM operation?

If there rears start to loose grip will the PSM still try to shift power to the fronts, even though it can't?
Or have you disabled the PSM system?

[AUDIHenry]

Yeah, that's what I'm curious about. You've gained about 10 horsepower and now have better handling. Schweet!

[Zippy]

I'm thinking (20%-15%)=5% drivetrain loss differential X 700 AWHP = 35 RWHP .

[joetwint]

Originally Posted by Lounge Lizard

Good thread!

How does this effect PSM operation?

If there rears start to loose grip will the PSM still try to shift power to the fronts, even though it can't?
Or have you disabled the PSM system?

No the shifting of power to the front wheels is mechanical and done by the viscous coupling(part of the diff)which is now removed.PSM operates normally and will only come on if there is a loss of traction to the rear wheels or the fronts lock up under braking....No codes.It would be different for a tip....a tip will throw codes and is much more complicated.

[Craig]

Originally Posted by Zippy

I'm thinking (20%-15%)=5% drivetrain loss differential X 700 AWHP = 35 RWHP .

I think Joe will produce well in excess of 735 RWHP on a two wheel dyno. He produced over 760 RWHP on EVOMS' old two wheel dyno, and that was before additional mods and tuning, and before he connverted to 2WD. I think Joe will now be close to 800 RWHP on a two wheel dyno.

Craig

[MARKSKI@911tuning]

Originally Posted by joetwint

Tonight for the first time....just on the street in RWD only.....totally different experience in RWD to say the least,intense when your going sideways at 80mph.No fun trying to do 60-130's going sideways in the dark.I need some seat time.lol

LOL welcome to the wild ride.... BTW, when I first started doing the 60 to 130s I left the PSM ON... now I'm used to it.
nice write up.
markski

[topgun]

Joe, congrats! You seemed worried last night, I'll drive it for you . Hey it's normal, nothing a little suspension cant fix. With the stock suspension they dont feel lets say "confidence inspiring" ..Have fun this weekend...tom

[Divexxtreme]

Very nice write-up, Joe. Great pictures, too.

[WOODTSTER]

Joe,

Nice write up, thank you for sharing. I also have contemplated this
and believe it or not the reason I decided against is because of the high speed tracks I will frequent this summer; Brainerd, and Road America.
I am keeping my sissy all wheel drive for now. On the street the 2WD would
be a hoot because I have been "fishtailing" my old muscle cars for decades.
(I do not own any muscle cars now).
Have fun and dont let the rear end pass you!

MK

[LUISGT3]

Joe,
Hoe did it run last night?