I just received this bid from a dealer. It seems to me to be about $1,000 too high. What are your thoughts and what have others paid. I could not find any hard costs for all these. Thanks for any info on this.

Also, at 11 plus years old, would you guys recommend a water pump and new 160F thermostat too. Even at our pleasant 60 deg spring, when being driven hard the fans come on quite a bit. Thoughts?

Bid:
Here are some quotes for the work you requested.

Int Shaft bearing upgrade $2,285.00
Clutch kit $850.00 (If done at the same time as the int shaft bearing)
Air oil separator $425.00 (If done with Int shaft bearing)
Rear main seal $28.00 (If done with Int shaft bearing)
Ft brake pads, sensors, rotors, hardware $1,180.00
Rear brake pads, sensors, rotors, hardware $940.00
Waterpump and serpentine belt $1,100.00

 

i am getting my ims upgrade, aos, installing xpipe, ipd plenum and a couple od other items for 2300ish. i am supplying all parts except aos and LN bearing.
your pricing is too high. 2285 sounds $400 high, Aos should be cost ofvthe part plus maybe 1/2 to 1 hr labour if done with ims. The rest looks ok i think, again water pump should be easier ifvthey drop the motor for the ims.

 

From what I've read, the "kit" price for IMS, RMS seal, AOS and clutch is about right at $3600.

The quoted prices for brakes seem stupid high. The parts, based on internet prices for OEM, cost about $1K. So, it appears their quote includes about $1K for labor (about 7 hours at stealer shop rates) which is way too much because the work is actually quite easy.

The quote for the waterpump and belt also seems very high.

As for running hot/fan coming on, first thing I'd do is remove the front bumper cover and thoroughly clean the radiators. Be sure to (slightly) separate the A/C condensers from the radiators to clean the interface. You'd be amazed at the quantity of trash that accumulates in there, enough so that the rads lose airflow and hence cooling capacity.

Good luck.

 

I agree. Just had my IMS, a clutch kit, and the RMS replaced. They checked the AOS it was fine. The bearing ended up being fine BTW too. This all costed $2600 (parts, labor, and tax included). Specifically, IMS was $1700 and clutch kit $700, parts and labor included. Your numbers are high.

 

Prices vary by region, city and shop. What Denver, Toronto or Dallas thinks is high, doesn't matter in Utah, if that's the best you can do. I would get three quotes and go with the shop that you are most confident in.

 

You are correct. I'm actually looking for a new Indy in Salt Lake. I would love some referrals on this. I have only one who is lower than the dealer, but not very experienced in the LN IMS replacement. If you do this wrong it is not a good thing. Again, any referrals on a good Indy in Salt Lake City? Thanks.

 

un-padded numbers below

Total labor about 16 hours @ say $125/hr = $2000
Total (wholesale/DIY) parts = $2500
Total = $4500

Total dealer estimate $6808

Most indys will charge you more in labor if you carry in parts, so your estimate of the dealer being $1k higher seems about right, considering the labor hours I quote aren't padded, and the parts prices are at discounted internet prices (for example DIY).

 

What shop is going to R&R a transmission for only 4 hours?

 

There was another thread recently here where the pricing and estimate for a clutch R&R was inline with my numbers above (an honest shop).

But even if you add an hour each way for the trans R&R, still those numbers are in the ballpark of the price range, I imagine with all that work there is going to be an hour or two each way. Considering removing the engine with trans only takes 4 hours though, I can't imagine why removing the transmission itself would take 3. If it's a tip or C4, removing the engine might be the way to go anyways once you pile up a certain number of jobs on these cars sometimes it's just easier to drop the motor than fiddle around with working in extremely tight spaces.

If this is a C2 6 speed, removing the trans is actually delightfully easy. C4 and tips, different story, need to add some more hours. Here is the 6 speed procedure.

Support engine.
Remove 2 belly pans.
Remove cross member, two bolts.
Unbolt drive shafts, 6 bolts each.
Support trans
Remove two shift cables and one reverse light cable
Unbolt rear transmission support
Unbolt bell housing bolts.
Slide trans towards front of car, then lower slightly
Remove two bolts for slave cylinder.
Done.

Install reverse of above.

I've done this several times on my car on jack stands, and the last time I dropped my trans I think it took me maybe 2 hours tops to get it out, and another 2 to get it back in. It was a less than half day job for certain, and that included replacing the flywheel.

With a lift and a proper trans jack, standing, I bet it could be done even quicker, without compromising quality of work.

 

Thanks Logray. I knew I could count on your expertise in this matter. You've been most helpful on many occasions and your posts have helped me get some better bids. I still may drive my car to No. Cal to have this done if I don't get any better news than I've been experiencing. I'd love to have it done locally, but the last thing I want is a rookie at doing the IMS / taking his time and tinkering around trying to figure it out on my precious dime.

Thanks again. I did talk to one shop that gave me the following advice: 1. Don't do the AOS as he rarely sees failures, and 2. Don't do the water pump until it fails as it could go another 10 years (mine is 11 years old now). Thoughts on this?

Chris

 

The AOS can be done after the fact, but they will fail sooner or later. So the thought is generally if you are having all of this other work done, it doesn't add dramatically to the cost. Especially if they will drop your engine to do this work. When the engine is out, replacing the AOS is a trivial task, maybe 10 minutes at most. Of course, you can certainly wait for the AOS to fail and just replace it then, as long as you don't drive hundreds of miles with a bad AOS billowing smoke out the tail pipes, it won't cause any damage.

As for the H20 pump, you definitely want to catch this before it fails. If it fails you can be stranded, overheat the engine, or worse bits of impeller strewn about the engine that need to be found or flushed out somehow. It's a pretty simple procedure to replace the water pump, so if you can afford the extra insurance, change it every so often (maybe every 5-7 years), and if yours is original you are on borrowed time from what we are being told. Go with an OEM genuine Porsche pump, I've been there done that with the cheap pumps. Not worth saving the $100.

 

So as a precaution I had my Indy do the L&N IMS bearing. When they removed the old one, no sign of failure and was very dry. My car has only 15k but I wasn't to sure in the past owners service history. Now I have piece of mind, but wanted others to know my experience.
Hope that helps someone out.

 

What shop was this?

 

My car is in the shop. IMS pulled out easily and was the dual row. Mechanic said it was tight and in good condition, but he did not pull off the still intact seal yet. I will and will send pics of the repair. IMS by LN being overnighted from Pelican. I took a chance and ordered the single row. My friend is using that one on his 2002. Pics to follow later.

 

RAC in Carrollton. Hans will take care of you.