I'm thinking of painting my rotor hats using Rustoleum Hammered Silver brush-on paint as others have done.

My question is how to turn the rear wheel while it's up on the floor jack so I can get behind the caliper.

To turn the rear wheel, I'd need to leave the car in neutral without setting the parking brake. To keep the car from sliding, the only thing I can do is chock the opposing side (one chock behind rear wheel, and another in front of front wheel). Is that sufficient? Any suggestions?

 

can u jack up the car so both wheels are up ?

 

I use a floor jack that fits into the side jacking points, so I can only jack up one wheel at a time. If I put the jack by the rear jacking point and jack it a little higher, I can get the front wheel up at the same time.

 

I just did this last weekend based on an old thread. Got both wheels up and simply turn the rotors by hand. The hammered silver turned out ok but wish I would have spray painted since the finished isn't exactly silver. Looks Bether than rust though

 

To turn the rear rotors, you need to have the car in neutral and the parking brake released. What did you do to keep the car from moving? Is chocking sufficient?

In terms of the hammered silver color, the rotor hats are not silver from the factory. They're more like a dull grey primer color. In fact, I'm leaning more toward Rustoleum grey primer, which I think I can brush on without the brush marks showing. The reason people use the hammered silver is because it's textured, so it won't show brush marks.

 

Set the parking brake initially. When you need to turn the wheel, reach in and disengage it, turn the wheel, then re-engage the brake. Of course you need to chock the other wheels. Love to see photos when done.

 

That's what I'll do. I'm going to buy another pair of chocks so I can chock both wheels on the opposite side front and back. I assume the rear wheel that is on the jack can be turned while the other is on the ground since 996's don't have limited slip differentials.

 

I used spray caliper paint. The key is prep, of course. I have a lift, so 4 wheels in the air at the same time. Some pics. Did the rotors over 4 years ago. The parking lot shot was a few days ago. Still look great.

 

Here are my before and after photos. As you can see, my rotors hats didn't look so bad. I just had a couple of rust spots and chips here and there.


It turned out very nicely, though if you look carefully, you can see a bit of the brush marks. I did two coats of paint on each rotor, waiting about a half hour in between coats. I then let it dry and harden between 6-10 hours before I put each wheel back on. The Rustoleum hammered finish paint dries very quickly, which means you have to work fast. To get to the part of the rotor hat closest to the braking surface, you should use a 1/2" bristle brush. The rest you can do with a 2" foam brush.

If you're looking for a Rustoleum color that comes closest to matching the factory finish, I believe that would be Smoke Grey.

Thanks to all for the tips.

 

good pics, looks very clean, hopefully it'll last like this for awhile! time will tell ... good work

 

nice job!

 

Well, it's now 3 years and 3 months since I painted my rotor hats, and I'm not so happy with the long-term results. As you can see from the photos, the Rustoleum Hammered paint has started to chip and peel, revealing the rusting rotor hats again. And in that time period, I've put only around 1,300 (one thousand three hundred) miles on the car, with none of it on wet roads. I think the issue is that this paint cannot stand up to the high temperatures generated by rotors.

I'm thinking of buying high heat brush on manifold paint from Eastwood Company, which has a dull silver finish to it. I don't want to use spray paint since it tends to go all over the place.


Any other suggestions or ideas?

 

I like the POR-15 Manifold Paint better than the Eastwood Product, but I think it is a good idea because of the high heat resistance.

 

I just used black engine paint on mine, no worries in about 3 years

 

I used silver caliper paint on mine. It's been on for about a year now (I only did the fronts last winter) but is holding up fine. I took my calipers off and hung them out of the way. There's really no need to tape/cover the rotor as whatever overspray you get on it will be removed rather quickly once you step on the brakes (just don't "paint" the rotors and you'll be fine...I'll do the rears this year when I garage her for the winter months...