911 as daily driver
#1
911 as daily driver
I have always wanted to slip into a 911 my whole life. I am at the point where i can afford something, and that something would be a used 911. I have never owned a 911 before, and i would like a solid starter porsche that i can use as a daily driver. it does snow a fair amount in the winter here, so i would need an all wheel drive model. I am looking to spend between 20-30k, maybe up to 35 if needed.
what are some opinions on which model i should go for? 996 v 993 is what i would think would be in my price range.
thanks in advance,
AC
what are some opinions on which model i should go for? 996 v 993 is what i would think would be in my price range.
thanks in advance,
AC
#2
I would say a 996 C4S a 2002-2004 would be your best bet. 993's are IMO a bit overpriced at the moment plus a watercooled 996 makes more sense if you are driving it year round. I would recommend budgeting about $2500 per year for service as well. Some years may not cost you more than an oil change or two. Other years could run you $5k. I'd aim for the upper end of your budget. $30k should put you into a lower mileage (under 50k) C4S that comes with a full service history.
#3
The 996 C4 or C4s would fir your bill, as the 993 prices are going up and one in good codition will run in excess of your budget.
I suggest you start looking at what's out there and if you find one you like get a good PPI (pre-purchase inspetction) and go from there. I may note; the all wheel drive is not 4 wheel drive. Couple of items, make sure the brakes are in good order as well as tires as these can be expensive to replace.
I will say the 2003 C4S is a great car.
I'm sure others will chime in.
I suggest you start looking at what's out there and if you find one you like get a good PPI (pre-purchase inspetction) and go from there. I may note; the all wheel drive is not 4 wheel drive. Couple of items, make sure the brakes are in good order as well as tires as these can be expensive to replace.
I will say the 2003 C4S is a great car.
I'm sure others will chime in.
#4
IMO you don't need awd, I live in WI and with 4 Blizaks on for winter tires I can go anywhere and this winter was a b**ch. Remember there is a lot of weight over the rear tires. Might be able to get more car for a C2 996 with same $. Also less to go wrong with less mechanicals.
#5
You can also consider tire socks for emergency use in snow - more compact and lighter than chains and presumably less likely to damage your car. However, they will not last as long and I can't vouch for their effectiveness.
#6
I agree with all the comments above. Proper tires make the biggest difference in the winter, not AWD. The AWD system in the 996 is a mechanical system with a viscous coupling that drives the front wheels. It won't drive the front wheels to any significant amount unless there is a speed differential between the front and rear wheels. On snow and ice, the PSM system will kick in if the rear wheels slip due to lack of traction. PSM will limit rear wheel slip before any major power transfer to the front wheels. The AWD system in the 996 was really designed for track use. Cornering on the track does produce a speed differential between front and rear wheels. This transfers up to 40% of the power to the front wheels, allowing you to power aggressively out of a corner.
I drive my 996 all year long, and it's a great car for all seasons.
I drive my 996 all year long, and it's a great car for all seasons.
#7
The issue I am concerned about is the combination of snow/ice plus the hills. RWD cars just suck in the WV winters. Does the C4 add much to the maintenence of the car? Better safe than sorry I would think.
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#8
I have a steep driveway. With accelerating, braking, cornering AWD vs RWD makes no difference but I can tell you AWD is a huge help for hills. Definitely need snows, though.
As far as maint, the big problem with these cars seems to be engine related. Not may posts on transmission manual vs tip vs AWD vs 2 WD so I think they are all pretty stout.
I would get a non S - they have wider tires, is you are concerned about the winters.
993's sure are pretty to look at but drive a few and if it is a daily driver you will pick a 996 every time.
After having it a year, here would be my option list
1 - full leather
2 - HID headlights
3 - sport classic wheels
4 - the most basic audio system - so its easier to upgrade
In the mid 20's you should be able to get an awesome car and still have 10K for repairs if needed
As far as maint, the big problem with these cars seems to be engine related. Not may posts on transmission manual vs tip vs AWD vs 2 WD so I think they are all pretty stout.
I would get a non S - they have wider tires, is you are concerned about the winters.
993's sure are pretty to look at but drive a few and if it is a daily driver you will pick a 996 every time.
After having it a year, here would be my option list
1 - full leather
2 - HID headlights
3 - sport classic wheels
4 - the most basic audio system - so its easier to upgrade
In the mid 20's you should be able to get an awesome car and still have 10K for repairs if needed
#10
Where?!?!
I guess the next question is: where is the best place to buy one, keeping in mind the price/quality ratio? ebay? dealer? classifieds? ive had a couple people suggest the PCA mag listings as well.
#12
I agree with looking at the history and PPI, but we went through the dealership for a warranty package. While you can find an inexpensive car, when things break, the dollars can add up quickly.
As a DD, I love it. When working a ****ty day, I look forward to the drive home. Good luck!
#13
You don't have to buy a warranty at the selling dealer. They are all warranties from third party companies so the dealer is not on the hook for any claim. Whether you can purchase a warranty and at what cost depends on the age and mileage of the vehicle. Some will not cover a vehicle older than 9 years for example. What warranties actually fever can vary greatly so you should read the coverage information carefully. Finally expect a 50% markup when buying from a dealer so you can some flexibility there.
#14
You don't have to buy a warranty at the selling dealer. They are all warranties from third party companies so the dealer is not on the hook for any claim. Whether you can purchase a warranty and at what cost depends on the age and mileage of the vehicle. Some will not cover a vehicle older than 9 years for example. What warranties actually fever can vary greatly so you should read the coverage information carefully. Finally expect a 50% markup when buying from a dealer so you can some flexibility there.
#15
Snow and ice plus hills isn't a concern with good winter tires. I live in the mountains, so I get plenty of snow covered hills. Occasionally I deactivate PSM going up a steep driveway, allowing the front wheels to help pull the car up the hill. It works very well.
The C4 vs. C2 adds very little to routine maintenance. You need to flush the front differential occasionally. I don't recall the recommended mileage for a flush, but I believe it's 90,000 miles. There are rare cases where the front differential needs to be rebuilt. Mine needed this, and it was ~$3,500. Not all AWD cars need this.
The C4 vs. C2 adds very little to routine maintenance. You need to flush the front differential occasionally. I don't recall the recommended mileage for a flush, but I believe it's 90,000 miles. There are rare cases where the front differential needs to be rebuilt. Mine needed this, and it was ~$3,500. Not all AWD cars need this.