I'm sure you double checked everything but I'm gonna lean towards checking to make sure your springs are seated correctly and that you don't have any kind of spring binding.

Did you install your lowered suspension yourself? I would double check to make sure you have the correct sequence of parts in between the strut mount and the struts/springs.

 

The noise really does sound like it could be spring binding. But for it to be making the same noise when I had factory suspension and when I switched to coilovers seems odd.

I can double check, maybe even oil where the springs sit. The upper mount is all metal uniball design, that it tightly secure to the strut towers. Pretty fool proof to be making that much noise.

If I remember right, when I had factory suspension and could fit my hand between the tire and fender, the spring didn't seem to vibrate any whenever it popped back over.

 

Sounds similar to an issue we have with our 01 C4, except ours only does it when it is cold (sitting for 8+ hours in 32f or below temps). For us it only does it after initial start up and if we back it up to the right. After that it won't do it again until it's gotten good and cold again.

It has done it since its first winter and our Porsche dealer replaced the following parts trying to fix it:
Struts
Springs
Control arms
Wheel hubs
Front diff
Front axles
Wheels
Steering rack
Steering column
Brake calipers
Brake rotors
Brake booster
Brake lines between the booster and front brakes
Power steering pump
Power steering lines

Basically, if it moved or was connected to something forward of the cabin that moved, it got replaced.

15 years in now, and every morning in the winter it makes this rubbing/grinding noise and you can feel it in the steering wheel.

Wish I could offer something other than "you're not alone", but I'll be watching to see if you come up with anything.

 

My issue seems to occur at any temperature, hasnt been out of the garage in under 55 degree weather. Doesn't change as it warms up. It is also very loud. Loud enough to easily hear from 30 foot away and the car has Porsche sport exhaust.

Replaced the front foward link tonight. Absolutely no change.

Quick sum up of what has been replaced on the side that is clearly making the noise: (in order or what was replaced)

Lower control arm
Spring mount bearing
Inner and outer tie rods
Removed endlinks (reinstalled after no change)
Coilovers with monoball mounts
Power steering rack
Foward link

I did remove rotor and inspect hub. I even took off the axle nut. Wheel bearing spins free with very minimal noise and play.

Trying to pinpoint the noise, I tried touching different parts each time it clunked back over. Almost feels as though it is coming from the hub/ bearing area. So that may be the next part to get replaced. I considered the brakes causing issue, but when feeling the rotor and caliper and directly on the pads, the vibration seems lighter than on the rear of the fake axle.

Anybody have any other ideas?

 

May be hard to explain, but I noticed the noises occur when the steering wheel is in the same positions. For example, if I "palm" the wheel, the car will clunk when I turn right and have my hand at 3 oclock position then will clunk again to the left at 3 oclock. I can't remember if there is 1 complete rotation or 2 between the noises.

I know what it sounds like: Steering column. When I had the power steering rack out, the lower u joint and yokes seemed to be in good condition with no play. I cant see the upper joint and do not know how to remove it. Must be on the cabin side?

The noise comes quite clearly from the drivers side and seems to be coming from the directly behind the wheel. But i guess its possible that the steering column could make noise since it is also on the drivers side. The clunk makes enough force to throw dust off the wheel.

I am starting to get frustrated that I have wasted the summer waiting on parts that don't resolve the issue.

 

Have you tried disconnecting parts to eliminate the noise? For example uncouple the column from the rack and see if it still does it,

 

I have disconnected the sway bar by removing the end links and replacing them with a bolt through the wheel carrier to hold strut position.

I cannot really disconnect the rack from column as it only makes the noise after right hand turns while driving.

 

That's right, sorry. I forgot and was thinking it would do it while stationary for you

There is a trick for testing the AWD in BMW e30 IX cars where they would raise the rear end off the ground and put it on a dolly so the rear wheel could spin free, then you try to slowly drive across the parking lot using the front wheels. I wonder if a similar trick could be employed here where you raise the front end so there is no weight on the suspension. Guess it depends how fast you have to be traveling for the issue to present.

I would expect it not to make the noise, but that should at least put the problem somewhere that is involved with the suspension travel.

No idea how to rig it, but another interesting test would be to find some way to spin the wheels at an appropriate speed with the suspension unloaded and see it it does it like that. Again I would expect it not to though. Maybe similar to the previous idea, but only raised enough so the tires barely touch the ground.

Maybe while on the lift find someway to offer a comparable counter force to the wheels to try to simulate the stresses involved while driving?

Maybe disconnect the column and trailer it to an area you can drive it a short distance without steering to test the column itself?

Obviously these are some rather risky and potentially unsafe ideas so please think them through and possibly seek mental health counseling if any sound good

 

The dolly idea is a good one.

What would be ideal would be to raise it by the tires on a lift that pivots, like in an alignment shop. I could possibly turn the wheels and create load by possibly bouncing the side to simulate taking a turn. That way I could still look under the car to see what is going on.

 

Quick update:

Ordered a used spindle/hub/bearing assembly off of eBay for $40. Quick replacement.

Noise is gone!

The "new" bearing spun ever so slightly smoother than my old one. It must have been a bad bearing that got knocked out of place during right turns.

Thanks for everyone's help and ideas.

 

Glad to hear the problems resolved with a massive list of replaced parts to fix it. Been an interesting thread to follow

 

X2

Wheel bearings usually whir or grind and not generally clunk. That would've been the last item I would've linked it to.