So I have had problems with my cabby top actuation cylinders leaking for some time. When you cycle the top, it makes unpleasant cavitating-pump sounds as air gets into the pump due to the reservoir level being too low. Add some fluid, repeat. Mine got so bad that it would do about one top cycle before it would no longer work. A lovely little puddle of hydraulic fluid would form in front of the rear tire - the fluid leaks out through the forward rain gutters in the convertible top void.

SO...new cylinders. From the dealer, they are about $1300. Pelican has them for around $850. I found a chap named Craig Kunins in St Petersburg, Fl who rebuilds these cylinders for $400 a pair. You ship your cylinder(s) to Craig, and when he receives them, you get an invoice from Paypal, pay the invoice and the cylinder(s) come back rebuilt. Yes, there is an element of trust here which may make some uncomfortable.

Swapping the cylinders is really surprisingly easy. You will have to reach way into the dark nether regions of your lovely sweetheart Porsche to reach the forward mounting bolt, but it was surprisingly easy, even for me and I have huge hands, 2X mechanics gloves. These forward bolts are right behind the rear-seat speakers. When you look into the opening where the cylinders are, you will say, "There's no way!" but it really isnt bad. Have one of those radio-antenna-wth-a-magnet-on-the-end gizmos to fish the nut out if you drop it, though.

Remove the clamshell mechanism (two 10mm nuts and two electrical connectors) and pull it rearward out of the way with a bungee or something. It really blocks access to the back of the hydro pump. Then put a big rag/towel under the hydraulic pump, as you WILL spill some fluid. Remove the two banjo bolts holding the hydraulic lines to the pump, making sure that you either note the position of each hose or ensure that the red and blue indicators of position remain in place. The hydraulic fluid kinda ruins the glue on these color stickers, so dont mix up which connector goes where. Also, be ver careful to note the copper sealing washers on the banjo bolts, and keep them in proper position. There are three on each bolt, and the one in the middle is fatter than the other two.

Remove the clips that hold the arm connecting the top to the cylinder. They will go flying if you pry them off carelessly. Remove the arm. Remove the two bolts holding the cylinder in place and gently remove it. The forward nut pretty much requires a ratcheting wrench (13mm) as a socket wont fit. Make note of which arm is for which side (I marked them with masking tape) and which cylinder is for which side to simplify reassembly.....which is reverse of removal.

When you get the newly rebuilt cylinders, put both ends of the hydraulic lines of one cylinder in fluid and cycle the cylinder by hand until no more bubbles come our of the lines. Dont get hydraulic fluid on your car's paint, I dont know what it might do to it (brake fluid will often bubble the paint). Carefully reinstall the cylinders - you may have to slightly raise the top by hand an inch or two to get everything to line up since there is a lower pin on the cylinder that aligns with a slot in the mechanism plus the upper pin which connects to the arm.

It took me about 1.5 hr to remove the cylinders and about 45 minutes to reinstall. Pack them carefully for shipping. This is a good time to do the speed-sensor mod to allow top operation at more than 3MPH since you will be mucking about among those wires.

Kunins may be reached at ckunins at aol dot com. He doesnt have a website, but he does have rebuilt cylinders for sale on e-bay.

I hope this helps someone.

 

Excellent write-up.