Attention track rats...Expert advice needed.

[bbywu]

Originally Posted by GT3 Chuck here is what the stock GT3 droplink looks like... These were from a very much missed Moton equipped 996 GT3...also looked a little weak.

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[GT3 Chuck]

if you like the settings the way they are then adjust the link to the same length as the stock link and install with same preload...it is possible that you could soften the front end slightly by removing the preload on the front bar...

[NeilM]

Originally Posted by bbywu

I'm assuming installation goes as removing the old twiggy set, mounting top bolt to suspension and lower bolt to sway under load, and then adjusting the length and locking it with the counter bolt.

Anyone have any other hints?

Best to do it while the car is on an alignment rack to have preload. Did mine twice myself. Make sure that you don't over-extend the bottom part of the link. This will push the sway bar down a bit then will hit the control arm when turning into driveways and hitting bumps(you'll hear it). I have the RSS dlinks and had to tighten them twice already. This may be due to me not tightening them quite enough. This past weekend, I used red loctite on both top and bottom adjustment nuts before tightening them once again. This may solve the loosening problem. Use a 12mm wrench to hold the body while you use a 17mm wrench to tighten to top and bottom nuts once you have it at the desired length. Should take you no more than 30mins per corner.

[obsessed]

[quote=NeilM;2605344] This past weekend, I used red loctite on both top and bottom adjustment nuts before tightening them once again. This may solve the loosening problem.

Loctite ia great idea. Blue may be a better choice - relatively easy to adjust later with hand tools, red may need hammering and heat to remove if more than a dot is used.

[TT Gasman]

Originally Posted by bbywu

These were from a very much missed Moton equipped 996 GT3...also looked a little weak.

Nice pic. I have to wonder if the drop link is really under a lot of stress, or is it more a question of proper geometry? All the OEM drop links are similar on the TT, GT3,GT2...

[obsessed]

When set on stiff you can often see the inside wheel lifted off the track by sway bar when cornering hard - fair amount of stress to lift the wheel fighting the weight of the corner of the car and the spring. I am sure geometry is a factor but heft is probably more important. Lighter links may survive the street but not the track.

[TT Gasman]

What's the downside to using a heavier duty drop link with metal heim joints on the street? Has anyone considered ride height as an issue with the drop links?. Does anyone know the relative lengths of the drop links, stock/Bilstein/GT2?

[bbywu]

I'm going to open a can of worms here. I am hoping that sponsors do not respond, rather end users...

RSS, ERP, GMG, Tarett, TRG...many manufacturers. Many similarities. Some with great history in racing, some are newcomers. Some rumors out there that one company produces products for others, re-branded and anodized, then resold.

Preferences?

[GT3 Chuck]

more like a box of worms...I would not hesitate to recommend any of them...my personal experience...I have all Tarett parts (droplinks f+r, rear upper monoballs, rear toe links and locking plates...all first rate stuff...when I did my mods I did not know GMG or RSS but their parts look equally as good..I could have just as easily gone with TRG or ERP but I had talked to Ira and he was very helpful and gave me a good deal...I would say look at them all and go with the one that feels right to you

[obsessed]

What's the downside to using a heavier duty drop link with metal heim joints on the street? Has anyone considered ride height as an issue with the drop links?. Does anyone know the relative lengths of the drop links, stock/Bilstein/GT2? [quote]

Based on my experience with these mods, no downside on street from droplinks with solid bushings. Impact on street ride comes mostly from solid bushings in steering and solid shock mounts, wouldn't do those if not a track rat willing to compromise street comfort. However, you can also do toe bars with solid bushings in rear, to keep toe from shifting on hard cornering, with no noticable deterioration in street ride. The adjustable links should cover you with any reasonable street or track height, extended links are said to provide better geometry - relationship of motion of the sway bar to movement of the car - I went with extended links and am very happy with the set up. I can't say there is a significant difference in ride, but to me it was worth the few extra bucks for "the best set up" to avoid buyers remorse and the risk of wanting to upgrade again later.

[TT Gasman]

I guess my main issue with the metal heim joints is durability on the street, not ride quality. On a track car that is cleaned up regularly and stored in a garage it's no big deal. On the street, the car is exposed to moisture and dirt etc, all these could prematurely wear out the metal to metal heim and loosen it.

[obsessed]

Originally Posted by TT Gasman

I guess my main issue with the metal heim joints is durability on the street, not ride quality. On a track car that is cleaned up regularly and stored in a garage it's no big deal. On the street, the car is exposed to moisture and dirt etc, all these could prematurely wear out the metal to metal heim and loosen it.

Fair point, but have seen several reports of rubber/plastic joints breaking haven't seen metal ones reported failing - but that doesn't mean it doesn't happen. I did see a thread a while back where someone located rubber seals to install on the metal joints but I did not pursue that, maybe I will try to check into that - wouldn't hurt. My car is used on street and track but mods are biased towards track use.

[GT3 Chuck]

I don't think it is a concern for any of the quality parts mentioned above...just beware of cheaper ones that have aluminum bushings that have been known to elongate at the bolt holes...

[TT Gasman]

Lowered ride height may still be a factor, didn't the same thing occur on 993s dropped to RS ride heights? And the cure, prior to the availability of RS drop links, was to cut and weld the stock drop links. Are the 997TTs with failed drop links lowered to GT2 ride heights or below? That's what I was getting at with the relative lengths of the drop links, is the Bilstein between the stock and the GT2?

[bbywu]

First picture is of Sparkhill's damaged Bilstein drop link, installed incorrectly. Note the direction of the drop link bolt on the damper. It is inserted on the shock from behind. The lower end is inboard of the sway.

Second picture is of Sparkhill's new RSS link. Note the direction of the drop link bolt on the shock...it is again from the rear. And now, the lower end is outboard of the sway.

Does this look correct? I thought the bolt was suppposed to be from the front on the top, and inboard on the sway?

The reason I ask, is because the third photo shows a TechArt/Bilstein setup with the drop link on the inboard of the sway, but the drop link bolts on the damper from behind...kind of like the way the Bilstein drop link was installed incorrectly.