Exhaust DIY

[Webtool1]

Ok folks I'm about ready to install a Switzer exhaust. I have searched high an low on this site and others to find info about what is required. There is one excellent write up for a AWE system but it leaves a few questions. I trust these question face everyone doing this. Here goes: Can you unwind the O2 sensors with wire attached? What is the benefit and deployment of a 22 mm crowsfoot wrench for the 02's, it is something I have never used before. Would it be possible to loosen off the 13 mm flange bolts let the stock system droop to gain clearance to the sensors? The upper outside 13mm turbo flange bolts look nearly impossible to get at with the bumper & side heat shield on, yet supposedly it can be done? When I did my 996tt exhaust the rear heat shield seemed difficult to remove, the screws looked buried, was I missing something obvious? I am a huge fan of using torch heat on stubborn nuts such as those frail looking flange bolts. Any other helpful tips? Thanks in advance, Bob.

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[Arone997tt]

just install fabspeed ver. 3 yesterday, I have to say getting stock system out wasn't fun. the bolts u r referring to just take some time, loosing bumper will make it much easier (just the black torx screws on black plastic. You are going to need the 02 wrench for sure

[TT Gasman]

Once you loosen the exhaust it can be dropped to get a 22mm open end wrench on the sensors. Use lots of WD40 and take your time.

[FabricatorX]

If your familiar with wrenching, and if you have access to a lift, expect to spend 40 minutes removing the oem exhaust. The worst part is the o2 sensors, which you do need to pre-spin them when it comes time to put them back on. Make sure you use anti-seize on all of the bolts, and ESPECIALLY on the o2 sensors; makes sure their easy to remove should you return to stock for resale or something...

[Webtool1]

Great stuff guys!
40 minutes to remove the stock system would be a delight. The 996tt took me best part of a day to swap over first time. the aftermarket system was a snap to install compared to removing the stock system.
One problem I had was getting the little bolt on the turbo heat shield to find its thread on the turbo housing. I ended up having to slightly elongate the hole in the shield. Its these things, working upside down in iffy light with iffier eyes that slows up the show. But hey far better to get into these cars, then they have your input, amazing machines yes, even more so when you understand them.
Another quick Q; is the 13mm gear wrench a necessity? I've never needed one before... and I'd have to order one in.
Thanks!

[NeilM]

Did mine twice myself. Took the rear bumper off. The biggest issue is getting to the turbo/cat bolts. 8 13mm bolts that will take the most time out of everything else. Use a lot of WD40. Go to the dealer and buy a couple just in case you break them. I didn't have an issue with the O2 sensors. Just pre-spin them before putting them back in.

Use a lift to make it easier. It will take you well over an hour to take off the stock exhaust. Depending on how the cans look on the Switzer, it may or may not be easy to access the turbo/cat bolts to put them on. On my Tubi, the cans are made so that accessing/tightening those bolts is really easy. Took me 1/3 of the time vs the stock exhaust. I also took off the ICs to so that I can get to those bolts easier.

All in all, it's a 3-hour job including aligning the tips. PM me if you get stuck. Good luck!

[FabricatorX]

Get some really really long 3/8" extensions if you can... makes removing the bolts in the turbos much much much much easier.

[TT Gasman]

You can get whatever wrenches needed at Sears.

[Neil Switzer]

Hey Bob,

Hope some of this helps...

It is easier to remove the rear facia on the car to expose the system, but
it is possible to do without pulling it.

You want to soak the attaching nuts that hold the stock system on the turbos
with penetrating lubricant before you start the install. This minimizes the
chance of breaking a stud in the turbocharger.

While those are soaking, you may remove the front and rear o2 sensors from
each bank of the system. With the proper angle, a normal 7/8 or 22mm
open-end wrench can usually be used depending on the age of the system. It
is recommended to mark the front and rear o2 sensors with tape or other
suitable method to ensure that they are not inadvertently switched during
installation. If the o2 sensor breaks loose with the wrench in the vehicle
without issue, then you can very gently rotate the sensor out
counter-clockwise while still leaving it attached. Once the sensors are
free, tie them back gently to avoid "banging" the sensors during subsequent
operations. O2 sensors do not respond well to "impact" of any kind. If for
some reason, the o2 sensors will not break free with the wrench, discontinue
and simply disconnect the sensors up in the engine compartment. You can
trace the harnesses up to the engine compartement... they are located near
the rear engine mounts. The harnesses will also need to be freed from their
retaining clips which are mounted to the engine. Once this is done, the O2
sensors will be able to be removed with the system and removed with an O2
socket which will permit more removal force to be used without damaging the
sensors.

Loosen the bolts that hold the retaining clamps on the muffler body to the
bracket behind them.

After loosening these bolts, you'll want to move the clamps outboard
respectively. The lips at either end of the muffler bracket mounted to the
rear engine plate will make it difficult to slide these brackets off to the
side. Patience and finesse are the key here.

This will allow the system to be free from the vehicle once the 4 retaining
nuts on each turbo are removed. With the rear facia in the car, it is
possible to pull back and rotate the system out of the car. An assistant is
STRONGLY recommended. The stock system is over 50lbs and is awkward to
handle.

Have fun and be careful!

[handdoc]

PM TT Surgeon, he does it once a year!

[Cattman]

I definitely recommend unclipping the O2 sensor clips in the engine bay rather than twisting them down below where they enter the cats. I did that the hard way on one side, and the easy way on the other. And guess what I'd do next time? Right. Unclip them at the top.
CATTMAN

[Webtool1]

All great stuff, thank you everyone.
Neil, great write up!
Cattman; on my last 996tt install, finding the way back up top with the sensor wires was a nightmare, I don't think I ever got all the wires clipped back to where they were supposed to go.. Was that easy to do for you?

[C4SxM5]

great thread. i had my stock systems removed twice and replaced with a cargraphic system. looked like a major pita, but now i need to remove the cargraphic and replace it with another system will likely do this one myself rather than paying the shop again.

didn't look too difficult but very timely as the bolt connecting to the turbos are in a very tight position.

please keep any tips coming

[Neil Switzer]

Thanks Bob, be sure to post some pics when it is all done and over with!

[TT Surgeon]

All good suggestions, use a shorty 13mm hand ratchet action wrench 4 sure.