I'm getting GMG sway bars installed over the weekend and was wondering what's a good setting to start with? I already have GMG springs installed with a lot of negative camber, I think -2.x in the rear. TIA.

 

I like the front on the middle hole and the rear on the stiff hole to give the car more oversteer.

 

I am running softest setting up front and stiffest setting on back...

 

For my DD car Fabryce suggested starting with middle setting front and back.

 

Middle for both here.

Car handles beautifully.

Very happy with my spring-only upgrade too.

 

I run middle up front and full stif on the rear. Car is a blast on the track.

 

Thanks for the inputs. Went with Soft in the front and medium in the rear, initial impression is a little less push from the front end.

 

im happy with the gmg springs and sways, but seriously look into the RSS dog bones and steer kit. These made arguably a better imrprovement tightening up the rear end of my car.

 

I would highly recommend replacing/trying the rear drop link as well, such as those made by Tarett, or RSS. http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...lnk-detail.htm

All these links with metallic-type heim joints (vs rubber bushing/joint of stock) will make the car tighter, the question is whether the increase in NVH and maintenance are worth it for any particular driver/usage. It's a "YMMV" situation. I mentioned "maintenance" because metallic heim joints are actually "wear and tear" items. Over times metallic joints become loose and need replacement; everything wears but the metallic joints deteriorate faster. Alex from England posted his experience somewhere on this forum; he needed to replace all of the metallic joints in his car after a couple of years.

While metallic-type drop link, rear toe control arm, dog bones, etc., should all be helpful and (obviously) have very different functions, the rear drop link is an excellent experiment because it is very cheap ($175 at Tarett) and extremely easy to install and un-install - easily reversible for testing and experimenting, unlike the other links, and doesn't need to a new alignment. An easy and inexpensive DIY. In my car with GMG sway bar and Bilstein coilover, there is no doubt that it improves the feel of the rear wheel (less body roll, instant response and better feel of the rear wheel, more precise in turn) significantly. By far the most cost effective mod I've done in my car.

 

Thanks for the feedback on the sway bars and springs.

As an FYI we also have our own line of suspension components which are tested and proven on our World Challenge cars.

Feel free to drop me a line if you need anything.

 

I have GMG sway bars, soft front/med back, for my next track day I want to try med front/stiff out back. What's the best way to change the settings? I have 2 jacks, stands, ramps, etc.

 

I don't know if this is the best way since I am such an amateur at fixing cars, but I use 2 ramps that I bought from Pep Boys; they *feel* so much safer than a single jack, or even 2 jacks. I always have nightmarish vision of the car collapsing on my face and trapping me so I don't use the jack anymore.
In the past I vaguely recall lifting one side of car with the jack and then reaching under with my arm to work on the drop links; it wasn't easy, especially the first time around when the bolt/nut had not been loosened for a long time.

In case you don't know yet: besides 16mm and 17mm wrench, you need Torx T30 wrench to provide counter-traction on the hex bolt while unscrewing the nut of the stock rear drop link. (The Torx wrench holds the bolt stationary while the 16mm/17mm wrench undo the nut. I hope I am making sense here LOL.)

Bob had some pictures I thought but they seem to be gone now: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...rop-links.html. Let me see if I could find mines.

 

I started to hear some clunking from the front over irregular surfaces but not if I hit bumps straight on. The short version of the story is that it was excessive play from the passenger front sway bar link, part number 997 343 074 02. Just fyi in case anyone else was going crazy wondering where the clunking was coming from after putting on the GMG sways. My tech says it may have just become more obvious after the GMG sways were put on. It would normally be a warranty item but I'm not sure if it will be for me. Not a bank breaker at $150 including parts and labour if I have to pay.

 

agree, thats what i did w/ the springs and it is a great setup

 

For anyone interested, I would recommend to try different settings of the sway bar to see which one fits best for your taste, your particular setup, tire, driving style, etc. Until you do, you really wouldn't know what's best. There is not a "right" setting.

The 3-4 combinations worth trying imho: soft front middle rear, soft front stiff rear, middle front middle rear, middle front stiff rear. Pay attention to body roll, comfort, and the "bite" of the front tire as you try. Less body roll is better (stiff front AND rear) but will affect comfort, front traction is generally better particularly in high speed curves (soft front), more precise steering feel is better (middle front), etc.

If you are at middle middle, at the least try middle stiff. The rear of the turbo has A LOT of mambo type movements and this would help. FWIW my GMG is at soft front middle rear but my car has Bilstein and Tarret drop links so I don't need to stiffen rear bar as much. Just my 2 cents YMMV.