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If you are handy with a wrench, please see my post above on how to replace the fuse. If not, an indy mechanic or dealer is your best bet!
Originally Posted by TTV6
okay so the check engine was from a loose gap cap. I cleared the code and the light is gone. Only issue I still have is the compartment fan error massage. It comes on and goes rght off. My car is not overheting and the oil temperature is still the same.
Thank you thackl. I found the fuse below the subwoofer. For all the DIY folks, there is a topic on how to remove the engine ECU. Follow those steps and remove the rear subwoofer, carpeting below the subwoofer and the fuse is located on the right side metal panel.
There were two mini fuses, one 7.5A and one 3A. Both were blown and I replaced both. The workshop manual lists only one 15A mini fuse in the rear. So if the fuse blows again, I'm going to replace the 7.5A with a 15A fuse.
Revised notes:
Here are the steps I followed to remove the rear subwoofer. Follow it all the way until you remove the metal plates. The fuse is located below the right metal plate (the ECU is below the left metal plate): http://sharkwerks.com/porsche/techni...2-and-gt3.html
See attached images, the fuse highlighted in red represents the blower fuse. The workshop manual says this must be 15A, but the car came with 7.5A. As Thackl mentioned, if this blown again, I'm going to replace it with a 15A fuse.
Does anyone know what the 5A fuse next to it (highlighted in yellow) is used for?
Overall, this is not a bad job. 20 mins max.
Thanks on detailed posting, just replaced the fuse on my car and hope that the annoying message will not pop up any more.
Mine had a 10A fuse on the first spot which was blown so I replaced it with a 15A. Did you guys hear anything about the potential risk of the blower catching on fire with a higher fuse?
Also the two other spots in mine it had two 3A fuses, both not blown. I left them alone.
I don't think there is any risk in using a 15A as the service manual instructs the replacement fuse to be 15A. So you should be good.... Although I replaced mine with a 7.5A and it has been running fine for 4+ months.
Thank you thackl. I found the fuse below the subwoofer. For all the DIY folks, there is a topic on how to remove the engine ECU. Follow those steps and remove the rear subwoofer, carpeting below the subwoofer and the fuse is located on the right side metal panel.
There were two mini fuses, one 7.5A and one 3A. Both were blown and I replaced both. The workshop manual lists only one 15A mini fuse in the rear. So if the fuse blows again, I'm going to replace the 7.5A with a 15A fuse.
Revised notes:
Here are the steps I followed to remove the rear subwoofer. Follow it all the way until you remove the metal plates. The fuse is located below the right metal plate (the ECU is below the left metal plate): http://sharkwerks.com/porsche/techni...2-and-gt3.html
See attached images, the fuse highlighted in red represents the blower fuse. The workshop manual says this must be 15A, but the car came with 7.5A. As Thackl mentioned, if this blown again, I'm going to replace it with a 15A fuse.
Does anyone know what the 5A fuse next to it (highlighted in yellow) is used for?
Overall, this is not a bad job. 20 mins max.
I can't locate the thread with instructions on removing the engine ECU.
If someone else has found it can you post up?
Thanks.
My engine blower fan is giving the same error. I have a cab though so I'm hoping the procedure is similar to what you guys have experienced.
I wanted to bump this thread because it helped me fix my error light. I already had a 10A fuse in that spot on my 997.1 turbo, and according the version of the manual that I have, Porsche actually recommended to change the 7.5A fuse to a 10A. Well, the 10A fuse was busted so I fitted a 15A fuse and now the fan works great and there is no more error light. Not sure if there is a newer version of the manual that calls for a 15A fuse in that spot.
Concerns:
Fuse for engine-compartment blower (fuse F1 / relay compartment 6 / relay carrier 2).
Information:
Before programming the DME control unit, the previous 7.5 A fuse for the engine-compartment blower must be replaced with a 10 A fuse.
Reason: With PIWIS Tester software version 20.000 (or higher), speed setting 1 of the engine-compartment blower is deactivated in the DME programming. This can result in a higher power consumption when switching on the engine-compartment blower and therefore requires a fuse with a higher current rating
Production Period:
4th December 2006 to 8th February 2007
Action Required:
Insert 10 A fuse on relay carrier 2, relay compartment 6 (in area of rear seat assembly) in slot F1
Work Procedure:
1. Remove rear cover and relay carrier, --> Workshop Manual '979009 Removing and installing relay carrier'.
I wanted to bump this thread because it helped me fix my error light. I already had a 10A fuse in that spot on my 997.1 turbo, and according the version of the manual that I have, Porsche actually recommended to change the 7.5A fuse to a 10A. Well, the 10A fuse was busted so I fitted a 15A fuse and now the fan works great and there is no more error light. Not sure if there is a newer version of the manual that calls for a 15A fuse in that spot.
Concerns:
Fuse for engine-compartment blower (fuse F1 / relay compartment 6 / relay carrier 2).
Information:
Before programming the DME control unit, the previous 7.5 A fuse for the engine-compartment blower must be replaced with a 10 A fuse.
Reason: With PIWIS Tester software version 20.000 (or higher), speed setting 1 of the engine-compartment blower is deactivated in the DME programming. This can result in a higher power consumption when switching on the engine-compartment blower and therefore requires a fuse with a higher current rating
Production Period:
4th December 2006 to 8th February 2007
Action Required:
Insert 10 A fuse on relay carrier 2, relay compartment 6 (in area of rear seat assembly) in slot F1
Work Procedure:
1. Remove rear cover and relay carrier, --> Workshop Manual '979009 Removing and installing relay carrier'.
2. Replace previous 7.5 A fuse with 10 A fuse.
3. Reinstall removed parts
I know it's an old thread, but thanks anyway. Finally my engine compartment blower is working again
actually i used a 20A to replace the 7.5A fuse and a 7.5A for the (also blown) 3A fuse.
I wanted to play it safe: I have a roll cage and getting back there was no walk in the park, and I would prefer if I never had to do this again
Relay compartment 2, F2 is for low speed blower operation. It will throw error message and blink red temperature gauge LED. No error code was detected by Durametric. The activation section provides low/high blower testing (both test are called the same).
Driving my 08 TT for the first time in summer heat since buying it last fall. I know the engine compartment fan ran last fall. but I got a warning on the instrument panel last week after driving it in 85 degree weather. I turned the engine off and the message appeared and the red warning light in the temperature gauge started blinking. Researching the internet showed that the failure could be a blown fuse. The fuse in located in the relay carrier behind the back seat. Found a good, fully illustrated write up on how to access the fuse for a coupe but I have a cabriole. I haven't been able to find similar guidance as good as the coupe instructions.
I did manage to figure out how to put the convertible top into the service position to access the area where the carrier is located but I need to remove the carpet over the engine to get at it. I see there are two round button clips in the middle that should be straight forward to remove but there are also two hard plastic "saddles" on each end which apparently are used for operating the top. I can put my finger under the saddle to feel the end of a self tapping screw which is holding it in place but there is a plastic cap over the screw head at the base of the saddle. See pictures.
Before I go crazy with a screwdriver and scar up or disfigure the saddle caps, I thought I ask to see if anyone has removed these and can share the technique they used.
My Porsche club chapter has a 3 hour drive coming up this Saturday and the temperatures will be close to 90 for the entire trip. I'm sure we will leave the top up and run the A/C which will cause the engine temps to go up. If I can't get at the fuse before then, is it safe to drive it under those conditions if the fan does not work?
I got some help from the Rennlist that said that the saddles did not have to be removed to get the carpet out. I did the job this morning and found one of the 3 amp fuses was blown. I replaced it and will find out if the problem is fixed on my drive tomorrow.
Well I went on my club drive today for a total of 3 hours of driving in 90 deg heat with the A/C on all day. Coolant temp was a steady 175 and oil temp was just a little below 200 (which is where they always are at). Unfortunately at our first stop after an hour and a half when I restarted the car I got the engine compartment warning again. On our second stop the same thing happened.
I didn't look after I got home but I assume I blew the 3 amp fuse again. Anybody got any ideas where to look next to find out why the fuse keeps blowing? I thought I'd put 12v on the fan leads to ensure that it works but after that I don't have a clue.
After some internet searching I found a couple of posts about recall "W737" that apparently reprograms the DME to eliminate the low speed fan cycle because it would always run. Anybody know anything about this?
06-03-2013, 12:49 PM
