Any rear drop links pix?
#1
Any rear drop links pix?
I just had Gmg springs/sways installed at a reputable high end indie. Since the shop was doing the work anyways I gave them the new tarret rear drop links I got (which I otherwise would have DIY). Well they must have had an off day as one of the links wasn't even connected (explains some clunking sounds I had). I finished up the link connection from the orientation they had, but now I've seen a couple pix with spacers in different spots. I didnt see how the stock links connected. Anyone with pix on how the rear tarrett drop links should look connected up? Thanks
#2
Hi Steve,
See pics below. First pic is the rear drop link, second pic is the front drop link.
I am not entirely clear on your questions but 5 main points I could think of, hope this helps:
1. Heim joints MUST have a cone washer (aka spacer in pic below) on either side.
2. Cone washers come in different thickness. In first picture below you see a thin one on one side, and a thick one on the other side. Ira will send you whatever you need.
3. You would like the force vector to be straight, not at angle. See pic of the rear drop link below. The angle was too much and that thick cone washer was later replaced.
4. If there is a choice of either, the in-between cases, use the thinner cone washer (versus thicker). You would like point that the force acts on to be as close to the sway bar as possible (ie thinner cone allows the point of force exerting to be closer to either mounting point, on sway bar or on the coilover).
5. The front drop link, whether stock or Tarett, must be in the outboard position or it's going to pop out of its socket.
REAR
FRONT
See pics below. First pic is the rear drop link, second pic is the front drop link.
I am not entirely clear on your questions but 5 main points I could think of, hope this helps:
1. Heim joints MUST have a cone washer (aka spacer in pic below) on either side.
2. Cone washers come in different thickness. In first picture below you see a thin one on one side, and a thick one on the other side. Ira will send you whatever you need.
3. You would like the force vector to be straight, not at angle. See pic of the rear drop link below. The angle was too much and that thick cone washer was later replaced.
4. If there is a choice of either, the in-between cases, use the thinner cone washer (versus thicker). You would like point that the force acts on to be as close to the sway bar as possible (ie thinner cone allows the point of force exerting to be closer to either mounting point, on sway bar or on the coilover).
5. The front drop link, whether stock or Tarett, must be in the outboard position or it's going to pop out of its socket.
REAR
FRONT
Last edited by cannga; 06-30-2013 at 05:37 PM.
#3
Thanks Can,
I thought I saw pics of the rear with the big cone washer on the other side, but it matches what you show for the rear so I guess It's ok. Your description of forces and the pic is helpful. Staring up from under the car with the boots on the joints and the funny angle due to the big cone washer must have disoriented me.
A new question. Are there any tricks for getting the rear links the right length for dialing out preload? After you get the right length, do you need to slightly jack up one side to get the bolt holes to align?
I don't have a proper impression of the springs and sways yet.....i'm driving on my stock rims/snowwies. The indie shop put on new mpss on my 3pc rims and two rims are leaking air like crazy!! Cheers
I thought I saw pics of the rear with the big cone washer on the other side, but it matches what you show for the rear so I guess It's ok. Your description of forces and the pic is helpful. Staring up from under the car with the boots on the joints and the funny angle due to the big cone washer must have disoriented me.
A new question. Are there any tricks for getting the rear links the right length for dialing out preload? After you get the right length, do you need to slightly jack up one side to get the bolt holes to align?
I don't have a proper impression of the springs and sways yet.....i'm driving on my stock rims/snowwies. The indie shop put on new mpss on my 3pc rims and two rims are leaking air like crazy!! Cheers
#4
Thanks Can,
1. I thought I saw pics of the rear with the big cone washer on the other side, but it matches what you show for the rear so I guess It's ok. Your description of forces and the pic is helpful. Staring up from under the car with the boots on the joints and the funny angle due to the big cone washer must have disoriented me.
2. A new question. Are there any tricks for getting the rear links the right length for dialing out preload? After you get the right length, do you need to slightly jack up one side to get the bolt holes to align?
I don't have a proper impression of the springs and sways yet.....i'm driving on my stock rims/snowwies. The indie shop put on new mpss on my 3pc rims and two rims are leaking air like crazy!! Cheers
1. I thought I saw pics of the rear with the big cone washer on the other side, but it matches what you show for the rear so I guess It's ok. Your description of forces and the pic is helpful. Staring up from under the car with the boots on the joints and the funny angle due to the big cone washer must have disoriented me.
2. A new question. Are there any tricks for getting the rear links the right length for dialing out preload? After you get the right length, do you need to slightly jack up one side to get the bolt holes to align?
I don't have a proper impression of the springs and sways yet.....i'm driving on my stock rims/snowwies. The indie shop put on new mpss on my 3pc rims and two rims are leaking air like crazy!! Cheers
2. The trick is that you have to have the car loaded - the wheels have to be touching ground, not up on a jack. I use the RhinoGear Ramp from Pep Boys as pictured below. With the car loaded on the ramp, you remove all drop link, then you adjust the drop link length on either side so that it fits perfectly. Then it is a simple matter of connecting them up. (I bought the RhinoGear ramp because I am so afraid of the car dropping on me with a jack, turned out it *is* better for reason above. http://www.pepboys.com/product/detai...ps/?quantity=1)
BTW this is why adjustable length drop links are required for corner balancing (not that I necessarily recommend corner balancing for everyone). They corner balance so that left rear + right front = right rear + left front; the car will actually be uneven at the end of the corner balance. Then they connect the drop links.
Last edited by cannga; 07-01-2013 at 09:33 PM.
#5
Thanks Can,
I re-did the rear links and it was very straight forward. What threw me off was that the indie job had one side pre-loaded and the bolt wouldn't back out easily. The key appeared to be getting the links to the right length where the bolt would just slide in easily before attaching and tightening.
I'm still breaking in my new tires, but it drives pretty sweet. It corners FLAT. I'm doing an autox next w/e so I'll get to exercise the new suspension. Cheers
I re-did the rear links and it was very straight forward. What threw me off was that the indie job had one side pre-loaded and the bolt wouldn't back out easily. The key appeared to be getting the links to the right length where the bolt would just slide in easily before attaching and tightening.
I'm still breaking in my new tires, but it drives pretty sweet. It corners FLAT. I'm doing an autox next w/e so I'll get to exercise the new suspension. Cheers
#6
Thanks Can,
I re-did the rear links and it was very straight forward. What threw me off was that the indie job had one side pre-loaded and the bolt wouldn't back out easily. The key appeared to be getting the links to the right length where the bolt would just slide in easily before attaching and tightening.
I'm still breaking in my new tires, but it drives pretty sweet. It corners FLAT. I'm doing an autox next w/e so I'll get to exercise the new suspension. Cheers
I re-did the rear links and it was very straight forward. What threw me off was that the indie job had one side pre-loaded and the bolt wouldn't back out easily. The key appeared to be getting the links to the right length where the bolt would just slide in easily before attaching and tightening.
I'm still breaking in my new tires, but it drives pretty sweet. It corners FLAT. I'm doing an autox next w/e so I'll get to exercise the new suspension. Cheers
A flat cornering car is a wonderful sensation because subjectively it's a major factor in making a sports car feels "sporty" IMHO. Congrats on the new suspension and have fun at autox!
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