If I do plugs again myself, this is definitely the route I will go.

The method that has you removing the coolant/oil lines and VTG to access the plugs is a MAJOR PITA and you can run into broken bolts like I did which turn a difficult job into an absolute nightmare.

 

Agreed...Same here! Glad this helps. I think it is easy enough to pull the headers (at the flange at least), and gives you enough wiggle room....Pulling all those oil/cooling lines is very much a PIA....

Good luck!
DC

 

OK......Good news! I have been waiting for a fuel filter bracket so I could button up the car and see if it would actually start!

Bracket came in today,and I put the new fuel filter on....Also, as stated, I put new plugs, coils, semi-solid transmission mounts, semi-solid RSS motor mounts, and headers.....I got it all put back together,.....put the key in and it. fired right up and sounds great....warmed it up and revved it....very crisp and smooth....no header or tubing leaks.....and idle is perfectly steady!

So apparently my method works....what a relief....Good luck to any others that try it....

DC

 

great write up Rock , thanks for your input, which sparks plugs did you installed?

 

No problem. I installed Denso IK22 Iridium plugs (part#5310), gapped at .025 as recommended by Scott at Softronic. Also replaced OEM Beru Coils (Porsche part# 997 602 102 00 Beru part# 0 040 100 021) with Bosch - part # 0 986 221 016.

So far so good. Waiting on the idiots at Autoplicity to send my Eibach Sway bar, so I can drive it Runs great though...

DC

 

thank you , I run Eibach sways set to soft settings in the front and middle hole in the rear with Bilstein Damotronics - did the installation by myself he, he'
will probably do sparks in two weeks by myself - thanks to you

 

Great! Good luck....You can do it.....Just take your time.....and take breaks if you get frustrated. I also had smooth jazz playing in my garage instead of rock....as it kept me more melow :-)

Have those ball end extensions and wobble ratchet extensions too....as they are key to access. I will actualy do this agaiin, unlike some others who have tried....I did not find it to be that bad....just time consuming. I found it rewarding to do....and saved $1000 ish on labor...to help offset my lift purchase :-)

DC

 

Final update! Weather cleared up (a little) Sunday, so I was able to actually take the car for a test drive.

You can definitely feel the difference with the RSS motor mounts, and Torque Solutions Transmission mounts...You feel the engine a lot more, and the transmission also. It snaps much crisper when it shifts...and no engine sloshing any longer. I will say that the motor mounts and transmissi0on mounts that I took off looked perfect and unworn for any thinking you may need to change for age or mileage....Likely NOT.

Fuel filter changed...So it was empty...turned over a little longer than usual the first time as it primmed and filled with fuel..but since then....fires up instantly!

Headers....Installed Schnell headers. Fit was good, and I was listening for hissing, or popping, or an old chevy truck sound, as I have heard before with leaks...Got none! You can hear the exhaust a bit better and it accelerates very well (Also have Softronic 93 Octane tune, Fabspeed MaxFlow 3 exhaust, HJS 200 CEL Cats)...

Plugs and Coils.....No popping or missing, and I torqued them all to specs very carefully, so install was good! When I got some WOT and boost....no more hessitation feeling or sputtering like I felt before, so I am thinking that solved the issue! Runs like a beast. Streets are still pretty cold, and when I really got in it, with the cold streets, and the car breathing that nice 28 degree air.....It was very squirmy...the wheels had trouble gripping at full boost and the car would go all over the place, even in a straight line shot! Pretty cool!

What I AM NOT running, and WOULD NOT waste your time and effort (and $$) on, is any BMC oiled filter...just a fresh clean OEM breathes fine, and does not let extra particles in or oil up your expensive MAF. NOT running any aftermarket diverter valves either...the OEM's look and perform perfectly..And I tried the Aluminum Forge valves, and one locked up in only a couple months...plus, other than a little extra noise...did absolutely nothing! And no one has honestly ever had problems with OEM...Just lots of speculating??

Anyway....Hope this helps with the assessment of the plug and coil change and other parts added. Very happy with the way the beast is running now and no hiccups, leaks, or CEL's on (YET!).....And most importantly....no extra parts! Not even a washer or screw!

DC

 

Taking on this task tomorrow following your guidelines as I go.
Already removed the bumper, heat shields, intercoolers etc.
Wish me luck

 

Great! I am sure you will get it done. Again, make sure you have some ball end allen/torx, and some wobble extensions for the ratchet....Also, if you can loosen those mount bolts and support the enging and lower it a few inches, you are golden! Post when done (if you are successful )

Also, if you feel something could be improved in my instructions, let me know...if I have the time I will edit...

Good luck!
DC

 

All done!
We did not lower the engine at all. Was able to make it without doing that.
The drivers side sure is the trickier / tighter one, due to being one cylinder more to the front.
The instructions were helpful indeed and was nice to know some of the details before starting the project. Made it a lot easier.

Thanks a bunch!

 

Mikkofin, any special tools you used other than what TheRock used?

 

Nothing else, not even the ball type torx heads were necessary in my case.

One thing to check though are the VTG adjustment / coupling rods while the adjusters are removed.
In my TT, both were totally shot. The "springs" inside the cups had vanished into thin air (due to 6 years of road salt i assume).
They are supposed to keep the cup and the ball joint together.
The part numbers 99712312470 and 99712312370

My TT though is 10/2006 and driven all year round now going strong @ 57500mls

 

Nice write up!

 

That is great! Glad you got it done. Congratulations! Saved a bunch of labor $$ and satisfaction of working on your own car....Glad my write up was helpful...and I am sure there are hundreds of various ways to do it....Mine was just one way.

Take care...
DC