997 Turbo / GT2 2006–2012 Turbo discussion on the 997 model Porsche 911 Twin Turbo.
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997.1 TT Spark Plug / Coil Change

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  #61  
Old 09-15-2014, 06:50 PM
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Well, it looks like I’m getting closer to starting this project.. A few questions for therock88.. I used your write-up for the front bumper removal – worked like a champ! Thanks! - I posted a thread in the 997 forum with some pics.

1) My original thought was to use the factory plugs , but I see you used different ones. It looks like this was because of your tune.. I have a FVD tune and was wondering what plugs I should use or just stick with OEM?

2) Same Q’s on the coil packs – why did you switch part #s?

3) I’m fairly certain that I will drop the engine to make it easier, since it looks like it’s just the 2 bolts – I assume the hoses will stretch a little, and as long as you don’t drop it too far it should be okay?

4) Regarding the headers: Where did you get your replacements? I assume for performance reasons? Do you think you have to remove them completely (from the block & turbo) or could you just unbolt them from the flange of the turbo? And this is just so the turbo can wiggle a little bit for 2 of the plugs?

Hi There....First I am no expert...just enjoy trying and learning, But I will try to answer your questions here and hope it helps:

1. I used the plugs recommended by the tuner. I would suggest you check with yours on what they suggest. Always use the best you can afford, and preferabley precious metals. A rule of thumb too is 1 heat range cooler for every 100 HP gain. Also the gap is important. For mine...factory is .048 and with tune recommended is .025.

2. The coild packs are the same as OEM. You will find a lot of that with Porsche....Bosch will sell them with one number, and Porsche will brand them with another. I was able to cross reference teh part numbers...they are the same, and I found these for a reasonable prce on the internet.

3.) Yes...Just put a jack or stand to support it and loosend the two Enging mount bolst and it drops down...I would say you have a good 3-4 inches before anything is at risk...Just do it slowly and only lower as much as you need too...it is too easy not to do it!

4.)Headers...Yes...got them for performance...from Vertex...these are Schnell brand. Regarding the movement...I would soak all the turbo side bolts with PB Blaster...and then you can just loosed them all....you do need to loosten the block side also as it really won't move with just the turbo side loosened it is pretty bound up. I do it so you can jiggle the turbo...otherwise more parts have to come off...and they are not easy to get too!

Hope that helps...and good luck.

Glad the front removal helped also...If any of you guys need anything I have published just let me know and I can likely emial it to you or link you to a quick web link I can make...

DC
 
  #62  
Old 09-15-2014, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by gmoney
link to the front bumper removal? one of my horns quit on me.
Gmoney...

Looks like you got what you needed...if not PM me or post and I will see what you need and what I have...

DC
 
  #63  
Old 09-16-2014, 08:53 AM
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That will work nicely, thank you! Im just thinking of saying screw it and taking it to an inde !
 
  #64  
Old 09-16-2014, 11:13 AM
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You mind telling us where you got you long hex and torx sets?

TIA
 
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Old 09-16-2014, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by cam99
You mind telling us where you got you long hex and torx sets?

TIA
I was wondering the same thing and found the torx ball end ones on amazon

Amazon.com : 7 PCS 1/4" Dr. TX-Star Ball End Insert Bit Socket Set : Other Products : Everything Else Amazon.com : 7 PCS 1/4" Dr. TX-Star Ball End Insert Bit Socket Set : Other Products : Everything Else

The Allen head ones I found were craftsman..you can get them online or in a local sears store.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-6-pc-...p-00942607000P
 
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Old 09-16-2014, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by saabin
I was wondering the same thing and found the torx ball end ones on amazon

Amazon.com : 7 PCS 1/4" Dr. TX-Star Ball End Insert Bit Socket Set : Other Products : Everything Else

The Allen head ones I found were craftsman..you can get them online or in a local sears store.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-6-pc-...p-00942607000P
Thanks! Search for not sure of the quality though)
Durston Mfg 14 Piece Metric XL Hex Bit Set Ball and Straight Ends
 
  #67  
Old 09-16-2014, 01:35 PM
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just did plugs and coils on my 997tt. found it pretty odd that the iriginal coils had 996 part numbers. glad i ordered new Bosch ones anyway. to anyone doing the plugs, i suggest do do plugs and coils. extra 250$ for parts will save you having to redo that job again when a coil goes bad. its def a a tougher job on 997 than it was on my 996.
 
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  #68  
Old 09-16-2014, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by prodigymb
just did plugs and coils on my 997tt. found it pretty odd that the iriginal coils had 996 part numbers. glad i ordered new Bosch ones anyway. to anyone doing the plugs, i suggest do do plugs and coils. extra 250$ for parts will save you having to redo that job again when a coil goes bad. its def a a tougher job on 997 than it was on my 996.

Where'd you get the coils from? Pelican?
Part Numbers?
 
  #69  
Old 09-16-2014, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by cam99
Where'd you get the coils from? Pelican?
Part Numbers?
no. i used the Bosch coils from ECS tuning.
 
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  #70  
Old 09-16-2014, 05:57 PM
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Looks like all the questions got answered.....I would just search for the Bosch Part number I indicated for the coils on Google shopping and buy the cheapest ones....Since you are looking at the same parts.

And on the tools ....same thing. I am personally a little cheap sometimes So just search for "ball end" and the type of wwrench i.e. torx, hex, allen etc...I doubt you will need these often, and rarely can put a great strain on them, so no need to over pay..IMO.

Good luck to you all...

DC
 
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Old 09-18-2014, 08:11 AM
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.025

Originally Posted by therock88
Well....Hard to say. And I was not hurrying, because what I have seen, is after the change... people have all sorts of issues, usually related to something other than the plugs...Like they took of the actuator rod, and did not snap it on correctly, or leaking hoses, or woring harness not connected back, etc.

I also video recorded and took pictures, so I can later make shots for how to do it...That took a lot of extra time, and I quit about 1/2 way through it.

I would say, to pick a day, when you can kill it... and plan on doing it slowly. I was not competing and stopped to eat, and sat and looked at stuff on the car...and also changed my headers etc..

I could probably get through it in 6 hours if I just focused on getting it done.....But spent about 8 and still have a few things to put back on...and made a bunch of stupid mistakes that required me to re-do things...

I DID, however, carefully torque the new plugs to 22 Ft. lbs. - Ensured they were gapped at .025 as suggested by the tuner - Ensured each coil was secure - and made sure I heard a CLICK for each coil pack connection plug!

I sure hope it starts

DC
025 gap huh? Any idea why so tight? You changed the coils too?

Tia
 
  #72  
Old 09-18-2014, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by cam99
025 gap huh? Any idea why so tight? You changed the coils too?

Tia
thats a good gap for a slightly modded car with increased boost.
 
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  #73  
Old 09-18-2014, 08:19 AM
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?

So I plan on changing the exhaust , use plugs one range cooler and then get a tune. So I should gap them at .025.

If I don't get the tune right away, it should still be fine?
 
  #74  
Old 09-18-2014, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by cam99
025 gap huh? Any idea why so tight? You changed the coils too?

Tia
As prodigy indicates....

It will run OK with larger gap....but not as good...may sputter...and will burn plugs up faster.

If car is tuned, I would always recommend checking with tuner for optimal specs etc..

DC
 
  #75  
Old 09-18-2014, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by therock88
As prodigy indicates....

It will run OK with larger gap....but not as good...may sputter...and will burn plugs up faster.

If car is tuned, I would always recommend checking with tuner for optimal specs etc..

DC
i've run 18 -20 gap in the 996

one step colder and gapped at 25 -26 should work well for most people with mild to moderate mods.
 
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