Thanks for your input. In response to your statements:

1) It appears that the 6062 Gen2 outflows both the 6262 and 6266 turbos based on PTE's website. If that's true and it's a 60 mm inducer, it should out spool all the other turbos too. I haven't found flow rates on it but am pretty confident it's 75 lbs/min from a 60 mm turbo which will be good for 1500 HP.

2) The EvoMS cams are most likely the ones I'm going to be purchasing, but I haven't decided between the stage 1-3 yet. I need to talk to John Bray and get his advice based on my set up and goals. I need to understand more about their cam profiles. They are odd to me as you will typically see a short intake duration and longer exhaust duration on a turbo camshaft. Their cams seem the opposite of what is normal.

3) My car is already running a Syvecs ECU. It has GT3076 turbos and put down 855 WHP this year. It's running perfectly and I wouldn't consider switching the Syvecs for anything else.

4) I have no plans for suspension upgrades outside of the TPC module. I'll be putting stronger engine mounts. In the VW world, we basically used Hockey pucks


James

 

Wow , pulling the trigger so soon after a r911 !! Good luck .
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I ran the gen1 PTE 6266 on my evo - it was a fantastic turbo and flowed more on my car than the HTA3586 did. Looking at the new gen2, the 6062 looks like the perfect turbo to try out for this level of build. Good luck, excited to see the results.

 

Thanks for the info! I believe it will work out well. The key to this build for me is to make sure I continue to love driving the car. I'd like to improve on the clutch feel and keep the boost spool where it is now with my GT3076. If I can achieve that AND make 1200 WHP, I will have reached my goal.

 

Look hard at the cometic gaskets. The factory 3.8 gasket can take huge power and has proven reliabilty

 

I've had a bunch of calls with Sean and spoke with John Bray, the list has been updated. I'm going with larger turbos and have picked my camshafts..... I'm at 99% now with all the final part decisions. I got some valuable information on clearances and am getting excited to start. Should I be looking forward to the snow that's coming?

 

since you have to pull the transmission to install the diff why not just do a factory gt2 slave conversion instead of the bbi piece and save about 400$? its the correct way to do the swap and proven to work flawlessly. simply plug off the p/s lines at the slave if you don't want to remove them.

 

I'll check out the trans case when it's out. If it is obvious where the GT2 slave goes, I'll just get it from Porsche. Thanks for the input!

 

the transmission is built for both setups at the same time. the turbo is drilled on the pass side and the gt2 is drilled on the drivers side. the flat spot were the slave goes is machine and the bosses for the studs are already there. you need only drill for the studs tap for threads and drill a 3/4" hole in the center between the studs. some minor clearancing inside the belhousing and the trans work is done. a 2$ chrome plug pops into the turbo hole and your done. then remove the p/s pump and remove the coupler from the back. plug off the lines and move to the inside. replace the master cylinder with a gt2 master and flush the entire system first with dot 4 fluid. thats about it. parts needed are gt2 slave, gt2 master cylinder, gt2 clutch fork, gt2 assist spring(if you want it) gt2 hyd line form the hard line and thats about it

the hole on the left is the factory hole. the right is the gt2 conversion with the studs installed. you can see the bosses for the studs are already cast into the housing

 

The gt2 is not reversible because you are drilling, clearancing and tapping the case

 

since nothing goes were the gt2 slave is installed so it is absolutely reversible. simply remove the studs plug the 3/4" hole with a 2$ cap. the clearance that occurs inside the bell housing is so minimal its irrelevant and has no effect on which slave you use

 

What camshafts did you decide on and why? This seems to be one of the least discussed topics around here.

 

Well...... I can't help much on the reason why. I'm going in blind on this one. There are only 2 or 3 companies who sell regrind/new cams for our engines. Schrick is a very reliable company, Their valve train has been rock solid for me in the past. I'm sure their cams for the 997 TT would be an upgrade, and they narrow the intake/exhaust duration span which makes sense to me. Here's where it gets difficult. They claim 20-30 HP increase with their cams. (I'm assuming on a stock engine). I spoke with John Bray and he's a really knowledgeable guy (obviously). He said the Stage 2 EvoMS cams would be perfect for my set up and that the 997 heads love a long duration/high lift cam. I've heard EvoMS claims up to 300 HP from their heads (Obviously not stock set up). The cams should make power past 7500 RPM. I have huge turbos and don't want to run out of cam at 6700 RPM. I'm a try and do it right the first time guy, I don't want to take the engine apart a month after I assemble it to try another set of cams. The truth is, I don't know much about the 997 heads or cams and EvoMS have a lot of experience and I'll have to trust it.

 

Not much info out there on what the stock valvetrain (seat/open pressures + weight of valves) can handle cam wise.

 

Jordan,
You would be the perfect tester..... Get the Schrick cams and Evo stage 1/2/3 and do a dyno comparison of the 5 cams from stock to Evo stage 3. Help the world !!!