997Current model of the 911 C2, C2s, C4, C4S, Targa and Cabriolet Discussion. Sponsored By HRE Wheels
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I see Eibach sells for $340 front and rear bars and H&R sells only front for $360. Is it something historical or does H&R exceed Eibach in quality, well, two times?
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I have a set of H&R sway bars and would not buy them again. They're solid bars and I was really surprised how heavy they were. Also, they have a more limited range of adjustment than (e.g.) GMG bars. It's probably not that big a deal, but weight is evil.
I have found the perfect solution to keep up with Lloyd's .1GT3RS...
I'm going to get a .2GT3RS...delivery next April.
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Tim
2010 Porsche 997.2GT3RS, January build To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2008 Porsche Cayenne Turbo
2006 Porsche 911 Club Coupe #13 To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Not knowing your driving skills and style this can be somewhat hard to tell you what to do on a forum...but...as far as a stock car goes they are set up to understeer. This is for safety for inexperianced drivers that will over drive the car on the street. It is all about keeping the car in balance front to rear and side to side. What can help is an alignment with less toe up front and more camber. With a stock 997 you will not be able to totally dial out understeer but you can make the car handle better on the street and inspire more confidence. The max camber up front you can get with stock suspension is -1 camber...this with no more than .02 degrees of toe the car will turn is better. Keep the rear camber with in .5 degrees of the rear. If you add GT3 Cup lower control arms you will be able to get more camber up front and have less in the rear an then the car will really turn in.
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Originally Posted by Targa Tim
Went out to a PCA event this am, sunny day, dry road, cool temp around 40-45 F.
I was following a 997GT3RS on the highway with some minor curves. I found that I could not keep up not mainly due to hp, but to understeer. I basically need to slow down about 10 to 20mph (from him) in order to regain my steering.
I'm running bone stock C2S, X51, PS2 tires, 19" techart wheels, and stock suspension and alignment. He has 19" stock wheels and MPSC. Not sure about his alignment.
I know there are too many variables here, but what is some good and inexpensive way to defeat our understeer? Please fire away.
Not knowing your driving skills and style this can be somewhat hard to tell you what to do on a forum...but...as far as a stock car goes they are set up to understeer. This is for safety for inexperianced drivers that will over drive the car on the street. It is all about keeping the car in balance front to rear and side to side. What can help is an alignment with less toe up front and more camber. With a stock 997 you will not be able to totally dial out understeer but you can make the car handle better on the street and inspire more confidence. The max camber up front you can get with stock suspension is -1 camber...this with no more than .02 degrees of toe the car will turn is better. Keep the rear camber with in .5 degrees of the rear. If you add GT3 Cup lower control arms you will be able to get more camber up front and have less in the rear an then the car will really turn in.
What does it do to a street safety to have -2 or more camber all time on front axle?
Also, does install of racing sway bar and GT3 control arms push car out of a stock class or does it not? What is the edge there in relation to suspension mods?
What does it do to a street safety to have -2 or more camber all time on front axle?
Having more grip up front will allow the rear end to rotate around more easily. Especially in a rear engine car. This can be troublesome for inexperianced drivers going into a corner....most will lift the throttle...and around comes the rear. This was comon in 911's of the past. Most all street cars are set up this way in today's world. Keeps the general public slower and safer.
Also, does install of racing sway bar and GT3 control arms push car out of a stock class or does it not? What is the edge there in relation to suspension mods?
Stock class as in PCA AutoX? Yes it does. Even swapping out something as simple and minor as a muffler puts you in another class. As far as DE's it does not matter. The reason I went with GT3 Cup lower control arms is I have exceeded the stock set up and need more grip and much better tire wear.
Stock class as in PCA AutoX? Yes it does. Even swapping out something as simple and minor as a muffler puts you in another class. As far as DE's it does not matter. The reason I went with GT3 Cup lower control arms is I have exceeded the stock set up and need more grip and much better tire wear.
what was your experience, what gain have you achieved going from -1 front camber to -2, like, how faster did it really let you go?
what was your experience, what gain have you achieved going from -1 front camber to -2, like, how faster did it really let you go?
I have 2 track days with -2. 1st day was in rain and the 2nd day was dry but I was taking sick kids on charity rides so I was only around 5-7/10ths driving with very few hot laps on my own.
For starters tire wear is better...outside tire temps are cooler and that tells me I can push it even harder in the corners. I might pick up around 1 or so seconds at Sebring but most of all my tire wear on the out side will be better. The car definitally turns in better but I noticed on certain turns the car feels more neutral and I can get back on the throttle sooner. I will probably notice the rear will rotate even better.
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