I posted a while back that I would post my OCD oil change procedures.

The advantages of providing your M96 based engine with the best clean lubricants cannot be emphasized enough. The research performed by LN Engineering and backed up by Excellence magazine shows that the leading cause of IMS bearing failure and subsequent IMS failure is poor oil quality. There are many factors to consider from the type of oil you use to the frequency in which you replace it.

Do not believe the hype, Mobil 1 Euro blend is not the best oil you could be feeding your M96/7. And, 15K between oil changes is ridiculous.

So, to make sure I was giving my engine the best, I contacted LN Engineering and they provided me with their race filter conversion kit, magnetic drain plug, and advice on which oil to use.

First, I cannot express how easy it is to change your own oil. Save yourself $100 and do it yourself. The tools I purchased to complete this DIY paid for themselves after the first two oil changes and may be saving me an engine change later in life.

Tools I needed: Low profile jack or ramps, filter socket, hex bit in appropriate size, oil pan, and socket wrench. Electrical tape on your socket will protect your wheels for removal and is much cheaper than purchasing rubber coated sockets.

You guys that are doing the "wood plank trick" to get your floor jacks under your car really need to pick up one of these low profile jacks. My car is very low and I still have room to play with.








Suspension **** courtesy of GMG....


Race Filter, LN Adapter, new filter socket from Kragen ($5)


The Race filter just screws onto the adapter


Magnetic drain plug compared to stock


Oil of choice





When tightening the filter and drain plug, think hand tight. These do not have to be super tight and you DO NOT want to strip the threads on your engine block.

Nice looking metal filter is probably much more durable than the stock plastic housing


As far as adding oil goes. I would put in 8 quarts initially and then start the car and allow the engine to work up to operating temps. Shut down and get a reading. You are probably only 1/4 to 1/2qt's low at this point. The M97 has a 9qt system but you will only be able to drain just over 8qts. The rest is "trapped" oil. I over-filled every time so take my advice about the 8qts first. But, if your like me, and "over guess" how much you need to replace, just undo the filter again. The filter holds about 1/2qt. Much easier than redoing the whole process.

Finally, if you really want to get in the weeds you can cut open your stock filter and check for metal deposits. According to Excellence Magazine, pepper grain size metal deposits are normal but cracked pepper sized deposits may indicate a problem.





I think the pics tell the story but if you have any questions let me know.

Jason

 

Jason,

Thanks for the DIY, as that's why I view these forums.

 

GREAT write-up Jason....rep points for you!(apperantely I have given you rep points recently and need to spread them around before giving them to you again)..I will work on it and get back to you...I promise!
It cannot be stressed enough about the using the right oil.....
I personally have NOT used 0W-40 since I supercharged my car........I have used 15W-50 and change it every 5000 KMS or 3100 miles!

Stacy

 

No worries stacy...

I actually used Mobil 1 15w-50 for a while and its what I put in my BMW. A great inexpensive oil!

Jason

 

Stacy, you really should change your oil more often then every two years. IIRC you only drive your car 2500km/year!

 

jasom,

great write-up. Why can't I have a neighbor like you!!!

 

thx for taking the time out for a detailed post ! rep points given !

 

Great write up! I'm in the same boat as Stacy re giving you rep points...
I went to the LN site to get some info - interesting stuff...
Jack

 

Great post...rep points here too

Ordering a kit from LN as well

In the pic it looks like you only jacked one side of the car to do the oil change,,,,is that correct? If so, any issues with draining with car on an angle?

 

Thanks so much for this thread Jason, quite informative! I think I'm going to call LN and order this kit as well. Can you give us a quick rundown of the benifits to going with this kit? How does the race filter differ from the OEM? How is the magnetic drain plug superior to OEM? From following your posts, I know you have done some extensive research on oils for your car. Was the Castrol 5W-40 the recommendation from LN or your personal choice based upon your research?

Thanks in advance for your time, I appreciate it!

Jay

 

Jay


Great thread....luv the detail....might do my next one my self. Rep 4U

Jim

 

Yeah I would jack up both sides if you can. I also have a set of ramps I use and that is what I do most of the time, much easier and less time consuming. I did the jack thing to take some pics of the rear suspension for a different thread.

The ability to use the screw on type filters expands your options to use very high quality filtering elements that are far superior to the paper stock filter.

The choice of Castrol was on the recommendation of LNE. I used to have all the various oil attributes memorized but I lose that stuff I am not constantly thinking about it. Bottom line, Mobil 1 Euro blend is a pretty pathetic oil for our engines (it does, however, meet all requirements). 15W-50 actually has better attributes and is cheaper.

Motul 300V is probably the best oil you can use but it is very expensive and I have found it difficult to come by. But if you race a lot, its the only way to go.

Jason

 

Where do you dispose of the oil?

 

In your neighbors back-yard....

Nah, but really the shop that sells you the oil usually has a collection can where you can take it back. They will recycle it for your FREE of charge.

-Eli

 

Correct, and I think they have to do it bylaw (at least in WA they do). They do not however accept brake or transmission fluids. Anyone knows where to dispose of those?