After many attempts at fixing the dreaded clunking noise from Bilstein Damptronics (nylotron washers, tender springs from top to bottom, grease on the spring seats and multiple ride heights)... this has got to be the simplist and best fix. It most closely represents that of the OEM solution (being a bearing cup) which is removed when you install aftermarket springs / shocks.

It took me about 2 hours.
You will need a socket set with 22mm, 19mm, 13mm and a 17mm open wrench. Allen key or hex wrench to hold the damper piston. A pass thought wrench socket or 22mm offset wrench is handy but not required.
The needle bearing plate is easily found on EBAY or you can google it.

1) the needle bearings are fixed into place in a bearing plate and are high tensile with a high pressure rating. Two metal plates go on the top and bottom to form a sandwich. (I also used some bearing grease to lubricate).




2) All this happens under the side plastic shrouds, which are held down by velcro. Remove the plastic cap and undo the top 22mm nut from the top of the damper piston. I used a nifty pass through socket so I could put the hex (allen) key in the top to stop it from rotating. (Jack up the car and remove the wheel)




3) You will need to remove the drop link bolt from the hub carrier (17mm flare and a 19mm socket) in order to get the whole hub assembly to drop enough so you can get the top of the damper piston free


4) mark where the adjustable spring collars are positioned on the shock. Then using the C-collar spanners which came with your Bilstein's, wind them all the way down so that the springs come all the way down.



5) Remove the piston rod from the top plate (the black plate with 3 bolts in it). Optionally you can remove this (3 x 13mm) but be careful to put it back in noting the orientaion (for camber). Then remove the round alloy spring seat (the big Silver round thing). this will have a 60mm internal diameter which seats the bearings perfectly. Note that there are two concave washers on the piston shaft. One sits on the top (under the nut) and one sits on the bottom under the top mount plate.



6) Finished. Make sure you wind down the adjustable collars by a few mm if you want to maintain the original ride height.



Result: I've been driving for a few days now. car parks, driveways, lock to lock turns.... absolutely no noise.

 

I installed coil overs on my 993 years ago and it came with this needle bearing plates. I am suprised the damptronic kits dont include them.

 

Cool Fix, but after 3 years of having Dampronics in my car, and can't remember the last time I have heard the clunk.

 

Nicely done. I'm curious as to what conditions the clunking occurred prior to the fix. Is it when on uneven surfaces? Or when turning the wheels?

 

my jrzs make a 'clung' something sound when car noticably jumps on a very uneven surface, I beleive it is a sound of tender springs extending and then collapsing back. imho it is perfectly normal.

other than that - there is no sounds on regular rought terrain and strut construction is pretty much same as on any PSS shocks, there are no needle bearings used, just usual springs washers.

 

Glad you fixed your problem! I have some occasional noise here and there, but nothing significant and definitely not daily.

 

If I understand what you did.... it appears that you having allowed the springs to spin more freely. Meaning that your clunking was actually the springs popping because they were not moving freely when you turned the wheel. A super common problem with coilovers and almost always a result of improper instillation. In my experience this is result of misplacement of the "hat" or domed washer pieces and how they contact the bearing inside the strut mount.

EDIT: I am not saying this is or was your problem. Just imparting some of my experience.

I also had Damptronics and never had an issue with them.

Jason

 

Good to hear you finally got rid of the clunking. If only bilstein provided clear consice installation instructions, as they should have done in the first instance.

And product support?? Do they know what that means i wonder?

All the best. Paul.

 

Great write up for DIY....

no clunk here either.....

 

Jim, you are aware that you need to drive you car to possibly get the clunk.

 

+1 having installed a few coilovers setups, its tricky to get right and usually the instructions are pretty poor at providing good guidance. I find that a good test to avoid spring popping/clunking is to load up the coilover prior to install and then ensure the strut hat/mount can still spin/turn freely.

Jason

 

Hi, don't own a C2 but this thread was brought to my attention in the Turbo forum. Very well documented thread! Am I seeing this correctly, that the front spring used to be "fitted" around a protrusion at the bottom of the top spring seat, and the needle bearing assembly actually *displaces* the spring from this protrusion?
See enclosed picture, I drew red arrows on the protrusion.

Also, when do you hear this clunk?
a. High speed? Or
b. Low speed at extreme steering angle, like when backing up?

a is very likely abnormal. b has been observed with not just Bilstein, but other after-market coilovers as well. Assume a professional installation and inspection have been done, I have equated this "problem" to brake noise. Some have it, some don't, and I have sympathy for the ones who do!

 

The clunk noise only happens at low speed and only when you turn the wheel as the tender (helper) spring binds with the main spring.
The whole system was installed by the Bilstein installer who just said "this was normal" and to put up with it...

Rennlist post here:
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...-question.html

original 6speed post here:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ing-sound.html

At the time of install, I had GT3 LCA's installed, dropped about an inch, put 2 degree neg on the fronts and had a Corner weight balance and alignment. I couldnt be happier with the result, however that clunking noise at low speed whilst turning was very annoying.
Now that it's all done, I'm a very happy camper. Just wondering why Bilstein never included these bearings as standard (seeing as you remove the OEM bearings when you install aftermarket).

Cannga - once the bearing plate is installed there is approx 2mm of inner "protrusion" from the alloy spacer as well as the actual top strut part sticking through. You can actually mount them on the bottom (or middle - between the springs), but that would require the whole shock / spring assembly to be removed. Perhaps next time when I change out the drop links (which is a whole other story).

 

1. This is very strange. I have thought all along that the OEM bearing is re-used (NOT removed), well at least in the Turbo Bilstein system. There was a very well documented thread in the Turbo forum that shows picture of the bearing being re-used: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...b-g-rides.html
See enclosed picture, am I wrong? Have you called Bilstein to check?

2. Regarding the needle bearing mod, did someone recommend this to you? Is this something that's routinely done in other suspension systems without any problem? I have some concern with how the spring now doesn't sit as deep into the spring seat -- it must be there for a reason, plus the bearing could come loose on full extension, no?

3. Fantastic thread and thanks for taking time to post. This may be first documented "proof" of where the clunk comes from: rotation, or lack thereof, of spring in the spring seat? Any pro or anyone please feel free to chime in & correct me as needed.

 

^^^Hi there, I've been told that my suspicion might be correct: The installation should have re-used the OEM bearing and your installer, unless he has some deliberate reason, has made a mistake with installation. See thread here: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-noises-5.html
You might want to check and confirm this for your own safety. FWIW, I finally got a hold of my Turbo Bisltein's instruction manual, and in the Turbo, there is a very clear diagram that indicates you should re-use this part.