Wondering if anyone else has these:
-Cabriolet top squeeks and rattles a lot, my ears have tuned it out, mostly
-1st gear will sometimes not engage from neutral at a stop, feels like it is hitting a wall. I'm sure if I pushed really hard it would go in (that's what she said), but instead I back out of gear and repush the clutch, sometimes I have to go into 2nd or third and back for it to go in
-Car bogs super easy with the AC on - not even the increased throttle of sport mode helps. I'm sure it could be my fault not getting to used to the pedal, but after 6 months I figured I would've learned by now, wondering if anyone else notices this?
-Sometimes I turn the key and the car won't start. It turns on, everyting else works, just won't crank. It's completely random, sometimes if I hold the key and wait 5 seconds or so it starts cranking. I just replaced the key battery today so we'll see if that fixes it.
-High pitched wind noise with the top down, sounds like it is coming from side mirror
-Car makes no noise when locking, I like to jump out and start walking away but instead I usually have to turn and look back and make sure the lights blinked, which makes it look like I am a checking my car out all the time

 

Here, for your hard to engage 1st gear, read this thread http://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum...-gear-oil.html

I do experience newbie engine bog down. The engine will not restart unless you take it out and re-insert the key and then it will crank. Just don't bog down and you should be OK.

 

This RemoteKey or SmartTop from Mod4cars can get you a beep on lock. I have the RemoteKey version since my top is welded on.


http://www.mods4cars.com/sms/shop/in...de=view&id=120

 

Start issue could be clutch control switch that interrupts start sequence clutch not depressed fully.

Reluctance to go into first gear is a common complaint especially with the Porsche SSK - I found that by moving the gear shift lever ever so slightly from neutral towards second and then into first works.

Surprised you can't hear the door locks when you arm - they are pretty noisy.

 

I don't notice any difficulty to get going with AC on or off. I blip the throttle to about 1k rpm as I ease out the clutch, and the car moves nicely.

I don't think you need to remove the key. Turn it all the way left to off position and you should be able to crank again.

 

For some reason, the car still won't start unless the key was removed and reinserted. You can try it out yourself. I bogged down 3 times (in 2 years) and had to do this each and every time.

 

Our 997.1 is also hard to get into 1st until transmission fluid warms up. from posts I've read it is common. If I kill engine I have to turn key all the way off then back on to start . don't have to remove key. Clutch has to be fully depressed to start engine.

 

When I say "bogged" I am not stalling the car out, it just feels like a huge power dip. Kinda like trying to launch an AWD car at the drag strip and letting the clutch out but not giving enough RPMs and you wind up taking off way too slow.

 

Thanks, might be that actually, sometimes even though it feels like I'm about to push my foot through the firewall, the car still tells me to depress the clutch.

 

The shifting problem when was the last time you have the brake/clutch fluid flushed/bled?

For cars that share brake fluid with the clutch hydraulic system "bad" brake fluid can affect clutch action and in my experience with my Boxster shifting action as well. This fluid is supposed to be flushed/bled every 2 years. Even after just 2.5 years the fluid was bad enough to account for abnormal clutch and shifting behavior.

As for the bogging -- that may be partially due to past its change by data clutch fluid -- when was the last time you performed an e-Gas calibration?

My techs advise me this be done every so often. I do not know if they do it when I bring the cars in for their 5K mile oil/filter services but I do this on my own every so often, at least once between 5K mile services.

The instructions on how to do this should be in the owners manual. For my cars with the key off and one's foot off the gas pedal throughout the process turn the key to the 1st/on position. Leave on for at least 60 seconds. Then turn the key off and leave off for at least 10 seconds. The next time the engine is started the calibration is complete.

On the bogging subject you can try a bottle of Techron. Mix according to instructions. Actually while I think the instructions say to blend with 20 gallons of gasoline I just add a bottle to my Porsche's fuel tank, which holds around 16.6 to 16.9 gallons of fuel.

The general recommendation is if the engine perks up from one bottle to when the fuel tank with the 1st bottle of Techron is low to use a 2nd bottle and fill up the fuel tank.

When I do this I like to do this before an oil/filter service so concurrent with the 2nd tank of fuel treated with Techron is low and I then have added fuel I get the car in for an oil/filter service.

The battery in the key has nothing to do with the failure to start. If the dash lights up normally but the starter doesn't work and there are no other noises -- click click click -- like a solenoid trying to enage the starter pinion gear with the flywheel ring gear -- such as is common with a low battery condition - the problem is almost certainly an intermittent clutch interlock switch. These wear out. My advise is to replace the clutch interlock switch, the clutch cruise control disable switch, the brake light switch and the brake cruise control switch. They are all are the same or nearly the same switch and wear out about the same time.

Bare in mind the switch can wear out but the clutch arm/mechanism can develop some free play and the portion of the clutch hardware the depresses this clutch safety switch to close it so the engine will crank can not contact the switch properly and even a new switch can sometime fail to let the engine start. One has to observe the clutch action and the contact action to ensure the contact is correct.

If I buy these switches at my dealer a tech will install them free of charge.

If the dash doesn't light up right then the problem can be a marginal ignition switch. If you can turn the key off and wiggle the key when turning the key on again or once on wiggle the key and affect the dash lights that's a sign the ignition switch is going bad. Having the Porsche key on a heavy key chain can accelerate the wear and tear on the ignition lock. I have my Porsche keys bare with not even an empty key chain or a fancy Porsche key emblem attached.

 

I have a 997.1 and can address some of the issue as they have been around for a while:
1st gear - I have experienced that issue with all 4 911's, starting with the 1987
Key - Noticed on 93, 97, & 08, although 08 by far the worse
Noise when locking - all have made a noticeable thump that can be heard within 10 feet or so

I don't have my top up enough to notice any squeaks or rattles but have been told the aluminum bits that move the side pieces up and down tend to make some noise if insulated bits fall off.

 

For ur top rattles, clean all the rubber parts and the inside of weathers trips with water and a towel. Apply gummi pflege

 

1st gear - I had similar issue and replacing transmission fluid to PTX fixed it. There is big RL thread about it.

hope this helps!
http://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum...-gear-oil.html

 

My car used to honk once when locked, twice when unlocked. This is not standard with 997.1. The dealer I bought from even told me not sure how previous owner got that done. Month back I got it detailed at professional detail shop. When they detail, they remove the battery. Ever since I have the same crappy silence as everyone else. The dealer I take it asked if I was sure it honked, they had never heard anyone getting theirs to do this. I said yes, trying to find out how previous owner got it done. Miss it badly...

 

Only way this happens if PO added an aftermarket module - see post #3 above for the module. If it was added maybe your detailers accidentally disconnected. Beep on lock/unlock is not something that can be programmed absent the aftermarket part.