DIY oil change
#16
02-16-2012, 01:47 PM
On RHD models, it is much easier, since you can access the filter from below because the steering gear isn't in the way. The Brits designed it for easy removal over there...Oooops!, sorry rest of world...
#17
02-16-2012, 01:50 PM
never heard of such a thing lol!!! 
#18
02-16-2012, 02:02 PM
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blayne: Thank you. Hope it's helpful.
62Jeff: This is for an '06 V8. According to the parts schematics, should be the same for all the 4.3's. But then, this is the parts schematic that calls the sump drain the main oil pan drain, so I don't know. Had to fix the text 3 times to get the terms right (and I might still be off on something).
DetomasoGTS74: Yeah, it's a sea of aluminum down there. I didn't get too crazy with any tightening (seeing as how my wife could've spun off the old filter with ease, I figured high torques aren't necessary here).
Aston Curious: The other parts are 2 o-rings (which should cost about $0.10/each, but, wow, just looked, list for $12.11 for the pair) whose diameter I'll measure directly; the oil tank copper washer ($4.23 list... sigh); and sump plug (yep, $32.87 for a bolt with a rubber gasket). While I'll continue to replace the o-rings, I'm not convinced that the washer or plug need to be replaced every time. I believe irish07 suggested the Jag parts look the same more or less for the sump plugs.
sunir: Correct, 4 places to drain. I missed the last (which is the first in the list) until irish07 and DetomasoGTS74 told me to stop being lazy and remove the under engine cover. All easy, just a whole bunch of them.
62Jeff: This is for an '06 V8. According to the parts schematics, should be the same for all the 4.3's. But then, this is the parts schematic that calls the sump drain the main oil pan drain, so I don't know. Had to fix the text 3 times to get the terms right (and I might still be off on something).
DetomasoGTS74: Yeah, it's a sea of aluminum down there. I didn't get too crazy with any tightening (seeing as how my wife could've spun off the old filter with ease, I figured high torques aren't necessary here).
Aston Curious: The other parts are 2 o-rings (which should cost about $0.10/each, but, wow, just looked, list for $12.11 for the pair) whose diameter I'll measure directly; the oil tank copper washer ($4.23 list... sigh); and sump plug (yep, $32.87 for a bolt with a rubber gasket). While I'll continue to replace the o-rings, I'm not convinced that the washer or plug need to be replaced every time. I believe irish07 suggested the Jag parts look the same more or less for the sump plugs.
sunir: Correct, 4 places to drain. I missed the last (which is the first in the list) until irish07 and DetomasoGTS74 told me to stop being lazy and remove the under engine cover. All easy, just a whole bunch of them.
#19
02-16-2012, 08:00 PM
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Regarding prices for doing this service, with all due respect to the generous techs who are so gracious to give helpful advice, I found the Castrol 10W-60 TWS oil for $12.37 per quart at my local BMW dealer with my BMW club membership. My Aston dealer wanted $19.20/qt for the same stuff. My local AM tech said it was not necessary to replace the 3 drain bolts with the rubber O-Rings every time as they don't get tightened very tight and the O-Rings don't get too compressed or distorted. I did buy the AM filter for $26.69 and the sump drain bolt metal washer for $2.49. My tech advised me to put in 7 quarts then start the engine for a few seconds to get the oil in the sump distributed through the engine, then put in the balance of the 10.5 qt.
Did anyone ever determine if the Fram filter was the same and acceptable?
Did anyone ever determine if the Fram filter was the same and acceptable?
#20
02-17-2012, 06:12 AM
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Rep Power: 204 Regarding prices for doing this service, with all due respect to the generous techs who are so gracious to give helpful advice, I found the Castrol 10W-60 TWS oil for $12.37 per quart at my local BMW dealer with my BMW club membership. My Aston dealer wanted $19.20/qt for the same stuff. My local AM tech said it was not necessary to replace the 3 drain bolts with the rubber O-Rings every time as they don't get tightened very tight and the O-Rings don't get too compressed or distorted. I did buy the AM filter for $26.69 and the sump drain bolt metal washer for $2.49. My tech advised me to put in 7 quarts then start the engine for a few seconds to get the oil in the sump distributed through the engine, then put in the balance of the 10.5 qt.
Did anyone ever determine if the Fram filter was the same and acceptable?
Did anyone ever determine if the Fram filter was the same and acceptable?
The drain plugs being replaced, again to each there own..I own a Mustang 5.0 and a Volvo S40 T5 AWD, not the most high end cars, but when I do my own servicing..I change them..2-4$ insurance that the seal will seat correctly and protect my engine from leaking out..good investment for me..again just my 2cents and to each there own..this is just my practice
#21
02-17-2012, 07:58 AM
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irish07, thanks for your input. I agree with your reasoning. I don't know why my tech suggested that method. I thought it must be because the dry sump tank couldn't hold the full 10.5 qt and it would over flow unless you started the engine to circulate it.
#22
02-17-2012, 08:33 AM
Did your tech give any reasoning as to why put 7L then fill the remaining for a dry sump system?? ..cause I don't see it, to me this would chance oil starvation due to a high flow oil pump, not only this but your to bleed the system of air..aka dry sump system, with putting in near half the amount your chancing pumping air into the system over and over again till you completely fill...to each there own but I do not recommend this procedure..
...after replacing both drain plugs and the new filter, fill the dry-sump tank with 7 qts, start the engine and run it for about 20 seconds,
and then shut it off. Then add the last 3.5 qts...
then run then engine up to operating temp, shut-off and wait 10 minutes, and then check the "final" oil level...
#23
02-17-2012, 08:56 AM
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The oil tank will hold all the fluid prior to starting..but it's 11Qt's not 10.5Qt's..no big difference ..also some ppl let the vehicle sit for an exteneded time then check the fluid..with the dry sump setup the fluid drains back slightly and can simulate as if the oil is low..start the vehicle, let run 15-20sec..turn off..wait 20sec and then check the oil..should be with in the spec level if 11Qt's was serviced and filled
#24
02-17-2012, 09:22 AM
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Rep Power: 204 Here's the official workshop manual for doing an oil change on a Z06, which also has a dry sump system:
...after replacing both drain plugs and the new filter, fill the dry-sump tank with 7 qts, start the engine and run it for about 20 seconds,
and then shut it off. Then add the last 3.5 qts...
then run then engine up to operating temp, shut-off and wait 10 minutes, and then check the "final" oil level...
...after replacing both drain plugs and the new filter, fill the dry-sump tank with 7 qts, start the engine and run it for about 20 seconds,
and then shut it off. Then add the last 3.5 qts...
then run then engine up to operating temp, shut-off and wait 10 minutes, and then check the "final" oil level...
Add at least 13 quarts of oil. Let the oil settle to avoid air bubbles for a few minutes and then check oil level on dipstick. The total capacity for the engine (counting the oil in the filter) is 15 quarts. After each further quart check the oil level five minutes later. Take care not to overfill. The oil levels should be between the MIN and MAX marks on the dipstick (fig 23).
***
I'm not saying it's a wrong procedure for adding 7Qt's..etc..just I don't see the "Why" ??
If I remember right..porsche's are the same thing..just fill..I very well could be wrong for I don't have the workshop manuals on hand..but just don't see the reasoning to it..if someone can professionally explain, by all means..I'm all ears
#25
02-17-2012, 01:13 PM
^^^ You're right Porsche is relatively easy...drain crankcase, drain dry sump tank, drain both turbos, replace washers and seals re-attach drain bolts, remove oil filter from up top and replace. Fill and measure with the car on level ground and oil warmed then fine tune add, no dipstick...it's all digital using left lower stalk.
Irish07 with the v12 Aston Engine on the DB9/DBS whats the process there...any dry sump plugs or whatnot, only thing I recall was a drain plug at the bottom there on the oilpan. We simply removed drainplug, removed filter, put on new filter, put back on drainplug and filled...and checked, and fine tune filled as needed.
Irish07 with the v12 Aston Engine on the DB9/DBS whats the process there...any dry sump plugs or whatnot, only thing I recall was a drain plug at the bottom there on the oilpan. We simply removed drainplug, removed filter, put on new filter, put back on drainplug and filled...and checked, and fine tune filled as needed.
#26
02-19-2012, 10:11 AM
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Rep Power: 204 ^^^ You're right Porsche is relatively easy...drain crankcase, drain dry sump tank, drain both turbos, replace washers and seals re-attach drain bolts, remove oil filter from up top and replace. Fill and measure with the car on level ground and oil warmed then fine tune add, no dipstick...it's all digital using left lower stalk.
Irish07 with the v12 Aston Engine on the DB9/DBS whats the process there...any dry sump plugs or whatnot, only thing I recall was a drain plug at the bottom there on the oilpan. We simply removed drainplug, removed filter, put on new filter, put back on drainplug and filled...and checked, and fine tune filled as needed.
Irish07 with the v12 Aston Engine on the DB9/DBS whats the process there...any dry sump plugs or whatnot, only thing I recall was a drain plug at the bottom there on the oilpan. We simply removed drainplug, removed filter, put on new filter, put back on drainplug and filled...and checked, and fine tune filled as needed.
On DB9/DBS some ppl remove the drivers TB(LHD) to gain access to the filter(filter is removed from the top, at no means can it be removed from the bottom unless your planning on removing the subframe for a oil change..lol)..I myself do not remove the TB, I just remove the intake tube to the TB and the filter fits through that area..
On the V12V, there is a special tool that punchers the filter, then drain the oil from the oil pan drain plug..then remove the filter from the top..by punchering the filter the oil does not make a mess when removing the fitler cause the filter is inverted upwards(threads facing down)
On Vanquish..remove the exhaust heat vent on drivers side and filter will slide through this area
On all teh V12 models you will need to make your own type of flap funnel to guide the old oil from the filter to a drain bucket(I use a form-a-funnel from PIG)..otherwise it will get all over he subframe and will take a nice amount of time to properly clean it all out..if not cleaned it will leak all over your nice shinny floor..and when taking off fast, it will spray down along the floor boards and sometimes throughout your drivers side inner tire fender lining..
V12 oil changes may sound easy, but the clean up is a real hassle(garantee no comebacks due to old oil dripping..usually go through 3 cans of brake cleaner!!
)..I'd do a V8V service any day over a V12
#27
02-19-2012, 03:57 PM
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Rep Power: 17 DB9 and V8 can be done without the AMDS. I have yet to find one that this doesnt work on.
1. Shut all doors
2. With key in position 1 hold the t1/t2 button in the center stack.
3. Turn key to position 2 still holding the t1/t2 button.
4. Watch for the yellow triangle to start to flash at least three times, let go of t1/t2 button after three flashes. Should hear a audible beep.
5. Turn key on making sure service light is off
Might take you a couple of tries to get it. If you have a ECU key the same process works. Just keep your foot of the brake so car will not start.
1. Shut all doors
2. With key in position 1 hold the t1/t2 button in the center stack.
3. Turn key to position 2 still holding the t1/t2 button.
4. Watch for the yellow triangle to start to flash at least three times, let go of t1/t2 button after three flashes. Should hear a audible beep.
5. Turn key on making sure service light is off
Might take you a couple of tries to get it. If you have a ECU key the same process works. Just keep your foot of the brake so car will not start.
#28
02-19-2012, 04:54 PM
I have a set (2) of the o-rings need for an oil change for a 4.3 if anyone is interested. They came with a kit, oil filter, 2 orings and sump plug. I have a 4.7 and only needed the filter, and the sump plug.
Jack
Jack
#29
02-20-2012, 09:41 AM
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Rep Power: 17 DB9 and V8 can be done without the AMDS. I have yet to find one that this doesnt work on.
1. Shut all doors
2. With key in position 1 hold the t1/t2 button in the center stack.
3. Turn key to position 2 still holding the t1/t2 button.
4. Watch for the yellow triangle to start to flash at least three times, let go of t1/t2 button after three flashes. Should hear a audible beep.
5. Turn key on making sure service light is off
Might take you a couple of tries to get it. If you have a ECU key the same process works. Just keep your foot of the brake so car will not start.
1. Shut all doors
2. With key in position 1 hold the t1/t2 button in the center stack.
3. Turn key to position 2 still holding the t1/t2 button.
4. Watch for the yellow triangle to start to flash at least three times, let go of t1/t2 button after three flashes. Should hear a audible beep.
5. Turn key on making sure service light is off
Might take you a couple of tries to get it. If you have a ECU key the same process works. Just keep your foot of the brake so car will not start.
#30
02-20-2012, 09:43 AM
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Location: Shreveport, Louisiana
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Rep Power: 17 Yep, V12 is pretty straight forward..there is no dry sump, it is a wet sump system like the normal average amount of cars on the road..depending on the model 1-2 drain plugs at the bottom of the oil pan..
On DB9/DBS some ppl remove the drivers TB(LHD) to gain access to the filter(filter is removed from the top, at no means can it be removed from the bottom unless your planning on removing the subframe for a oil change..lol)..I myself do not remove the TB, I just remove the intake tube to the TB and the filter fits through that area..
On the V12V, there is a special tool that punchers the filter, then drain the oil from the oil pan drain plug..then remove the filter from the top..by punchering the filter the oil does not make a mess when removing the fitler cause the filter is inverted upwards(threads facing down)
On Vanquish..remove the exhaust heat vent on drivers side and filter will slide through this area
On all teh V12 models you will need to make your own type of flap funnel to guide the old oil from the filter to a drain bucket(I use a form-a-funnel from PIG)..otherwise it will get all over he subframe and will take a nice amount of time to properly clean it all out..if not cleaned it will leak all over your nice shinny floor..and when taking off fast, it will spray down along the floor boards and sometimes throughout your drivers side inner tire fender lining..
V12 oil changes may sound easy, but the clean up is a real hassle(garantee no comebacks due to old oil dripping..usually go through 3 cans of brake cleaner!!)..I'd do a V8V service any day over a V12
On DB9/DBS some ppl remove the drivers TB(LHD) to gain access to the filter(filter is removed from the top, at no means can it be removed from the bottom unless your planning on removing the subframe for a oil change..lol)..I myself do not remove the TB, I just remove the intake tube to the TB and the filter fits through that area..
On the V12V, there is a special tool that punchers the filter, then drain the oil from the oil pan drain plug..then remove the filter from the top..by punchering the filter the oil does not make a mess when removing the fitler cause the filter is inverted upwards(threads facing down)
On Vanquish..remove the exhaust heat vent on drivers side and filter will slide through this area
On all teh V12 models you will need to make your own type of flap funnel to guide the old oil from the filter to a drain bucket(I use a form-a-funnel from PIG)..otherwise it will get all over he subframe and will take a nice amount of time to properly clean it all out..if not cleaned it will leak all over your nice shinny floor..and when taking off fast, it will spray down along the floor boards and sometimes throughout your drivers side inner tire fender lining..
V12 oil changes may sound easy, but the clean up is a real hassle(garantee no comebacks due to old oil dripping..usually go through 3 cans of brake cleaner!!
)..I'd do a V8V service any day over a V12