I just replaced mine last night with Mobil 1 75W90 oil. Took it for a test drive last night after the change and the shift felt really smooth. Any words out there on Mobil 1 75W90 oil with MY07 V8V manual?

 

Hell everyone and happy new year!

I amplannig to do my transaxle fluid change on the next days. I have already the castrol 270a in my house but after reading redpants DIY I have read that if someone has the ASM sporthsift gearbox it is not recommended to do it because it is necessary a flush.

My dealer is quite far away and I would like to know if it is mandatory to do the flush or if I can change the fluid as in the manual gearbox. Can I brake something!?

Thanks a lot

Carlos

 

I've yet to see the video but I highly doubt telum said he doesn't recommend replacing the ASM gearbox fluid. Regardless of the car being a manual shift or a ASM shift, the internals are almost the same(just linkages are different)..whether it be manual or ASM, the service schedule is 4yrs and/or 64,000km.

 

Hi Irish, thank you for your fast reply.

Here you have:
http://www.redpants.lol/transaxle-fluid-change/

First thing's first: I don't recommend doing the gear oil change yourself if you have a paddle-shifted transmission. The SportShift (also called ASM) has solenoids that need to be cycled in order to properly flush the gear oil. This can only be done using an AMDS. If you've got a manual transmission, read on!

That's what I read!

Regards
Carlos

 

The ASM fluid in the hydraulic system and the fluid in the transaxle are 2 different systems and 2 different fluids that never mix(if they ever mix, you have an issue needing to be repaired).

Yes, to flush the ASM fluid out of the hydraulic system you would need to cycle the solenoids for gear positions and clutch slave, in order to get all the old ASM fluid out.

As for the ASM transmission fluid, cycling the gear solenoids will do nothing to change getting more/less transaxle oil out of the gearbox. Open the fill plug to allow air to enter, remove the bottom drain plug to dump the transaxle fluid, remove the filter and clean it out.

Replace the filter o-ring, fit back the drain plug with a new washer. Fill the transaxle with BOT 270a till it pours out the spout(should take around 4.4L, make sure to have 5 bottles and don't waste/spill too much). Fit back the filler plug with a new washer. Then clean up the mess over the suspension and exhaust from spilled fluid(brake cleaner was awesome).

Now fit back your undertrays and crawl out from under the car, crack open a Smithwicks and enjoy your accomplishment. Just don't tell the wife you finished in record time, or she'll find you a "hobby" around the house!!

 

Hi irish,

Thanks again for your reply. Now I understand it. I'll do the transaxle fluid change this weekend.

I've been searching if there is any maintenance schedule for changing the ASM hydraulic fluid but haven't find anything. Is there any recommendation ?

Thanks

 

The gear oil definitely needs to be changed in the ASM transmission, it was the DIY that I was saying I don't recommend, only because I want to have complete information about the gearbox and everything around it before I start encouraging (explicitly or implicitly) people to do anything to the ASM transmission. Once I've got everything together and posted, I'll clarify what can and can't be done with the ASM gearbox and its maintenance. Until then, I'm hesitant to post anything that could lead to a costly issue.

Here's what I had to say to help clarify it for everyone else:

The main concern is actually the clutch line, which is part of the brake fluid system. If that gets drained, there's no way to refill it without an AMDS (Aston Martin Diagnostic System, which is proprietary). Without any fluid in the clutch line, the car will not shift, and you'll likely need the car shipped to a dealership to have it fixed.

I put the "I don't recommend" comment on the DIY out of an abundance of caution while I gather complete information for that transmission. I need to verify that nothing else regarding the transmission needs an AMDS.

-----

You may be perfectly fine with changing the gear oil itself, and I don't think there are any issues with doing it on the SportShift the same way you do it on the manual transmission. The problem that I run into is honestly one of liability, so until I have complete information about the SportShift, I tend to discourage people from working on it based on my DIY guides. Last thing I need is for something to go wrong because of a difference in the transmissions and for me to be blamed for it!

What we're basically looking at are two systems - the transmission and the brakes. The transmission has gear oil in it, the brakes have brake fluid. However, the two overlap a bit because the brake fluid is also in the clutch line.

• Since you don't have a clutch pedal in your car, there are solenoids that control the clutch for you. If you drain the fluid from the clutch line, the fluid can't be replaced without an AMDS, so the clutch won't work, so the transmission can't shift.
• Since you don't have a shifter in your car, there is a system of solenoids that control shifting for you. If anything goes wrong with that system, your transmission either will not shift, or will shift incorrectly (destroying your transmission).

The SportShift transmission is very similar to the manual - it's basically a manual transmission with extra components to replace the clutch pedal and shifter you'd have if you were in a manual car. But some aspects of the transmission are very specific in how they're maintained. So rather than assuming something is safe, I'd rather exercise caution until I know exactly what can and cannot be done to that transmission.

As for the tasks themselves, brake fluid should be done every two years, and gear oil should be done every four years. Even though both affect the transmission, the fluids are independent of each other, so they don't need to be done at the same time. You're fine doing your brake fluid so long as you only drain from the brake calipers and don't touch the clutch bleed line.

 

Thank you redpants!! Fantastic explanation.

Any recommendation on when to change the pentosin fluid? I haven't seen anything. Don't know if it is not necessary.

Carlos

 

There's no schedule for the ASM hydraulic fluid. Usually the clutch wears out before the fluid can build up too much humidity. I just flush the fluid when replacing the clutch. Some could argue the fact that the ASM fluid is like brake fluid and Aston recommends V8V brake fluid flushing every 2 years, so ASM fluid should be replaced on those 2 year intervals...it's really to each there own...no right or wrong answer. I'd say within a 6 years time, which would of included at least 1 clutch, the ASM fluid should be flushed or at least bleed.

 

I called and got a quote from Galpin on the BOT fluid--$86/l. LOL. Has anyone sourced this stuff in the US or from a dealer with a more reasonable price? Even for unobtainium $430 seems a little absurd.

 

I'm now stocking it:
http://www.redpants.lol/shop/castrol-bot270a

 

Just tried to purchase, but says shipping is $350. I think it's improperly classified as "wheel shipping"

 

It will automatically update shipping options when you put in your address.

 

Got it. Order submitted! Do these bottles require a pump? I think I recalled reading somewhere that they have a neck that enables you to pour it into the fill location.

 

Thank you sir!

I know Motul has that on their bottles (it's the coolest thing ever, makes the job incredibly easy), but not sure about Castrol. I should be receiving my first inventory shipment of the BOT270A on Monday or Tuesday - I'll ship yours out right away, and will check a bottle to see if you need a pump or not so you can get one while they're en route if needed.