DIY Oil Change- DB9
#1
03-02-2014, 02:13 PM
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Alabama
Age: 53
Posts: 48
Rep Power: 14 
DIY Oil Change- DB9
DIY Oil Change for your DB9
Supplies Needed:
· Jack Stands, Jack
· Oil Filter Wrench
· Pliers
· Standard Screwdriver
· 16mm Socket Wrench and Extension
· 8mm Socket Wrench and Extension
· AM Oil filter
· 11qts of Oil (Mobile 1 0w40 or eq.)
· Oil catch Pan
· Shop Towels
· Absorbent pads
· Beer, Ice, Cooler
You will get many different answers on types of oil to use. I use Mobile 1. Any reputable synthetic will do. I found that a Fram PH2 Oil Filter and compatible will fit the DB9. HOWEVER!, when I looked at the many brands of different filters, I found that the number and size of holes was much smaller than the AM filter. While I think it’s ridiculous for an oil filter to cost $64, I was not willing to chance it. I phoned the dealer in the next state who shipped me one out.
1. Put your beer on ice for when you finish.
2. Warm the car up for a few minutes.
3. Apply parking brake
4. Raise the bonnet
5. Raise car and set jack stands. The jack goes under the forward portion of the door. If you look under, you can see the metal area. I use a hockey puck on the jack lip to fit the space and avoid scratching.
6. Slide your oil catch pan under the drain plug. The plug is midway between the front wheels. There is already an opening, so no panel removal is needed.
7. Remove 16mm drain plug and drain
8. Lower the car to level
9. Remove breather hose from air intake hose
10. Remove the connector from throttle body. It can be a pain to pinch down the catches, you may try a small scrwdriver to help.
11. Remove clamp from air intake. You can use a flat head screw driver to pry up the raised portion of the clamp.
12. Remove 4 – 8mm bolts from throttle body and remove from vehicle. Take care not to damage the o-ring. Inspect the o-ring for wear. If it is flattened out, replace. Now is a good time to clean out your throttle body. I recommend doing both of them. Use cleaner from your local parts store and clean shop cloths.
13. Push the air intake hose toward the passenger side.
14. Place absorbent pads below filter. A good amount of oil will leak out.
15. Maneuver filter wrench over the filter and loosen.
16. Remove wrench before you back off the filter
17. Once you break the seal, let the excess oil drain out onto the pads for a few minutes.
18. Take the filter off, while keeping the open side upward. I put my index finger into the threaded opening to bring the filter out of the space.
19. Wipe a thin amount of new oil onto the new filter seal.
20. Reverse the steps. Tighten the filter by hand only.
21. When replacing the throttle body. Do not over tighten bolts and be careful not to pinch o-ring..
22. To replace the clamp, I used a pair of pliers and a flat-head screw driver. Place the pliers on either side of the clamp bends. While holding pressure, insert the screw driver underneath clasp and rotate the head slightly.
23. Once the oil has finished draining, place the plug back in. and fill with 11qts of oil.
24. Check oil level and add as needed.
25. Start car and check for leaks. Re-check after the oil has settled.
26. Clean up
27. Open cooler and crack open beer!
Supplies Needed:
· Jack Stands, Jack
· Oil Filter Wrench
· Pliers
· Standard Screwdriver
· 16mm Socket Wrench and Extension
· 8mm Socket Wrench and Extension
· AM Oil filter
· 11qts of Oil (Mobile 1 0w40 or eq.)
· Oil catch Pan
· Shop Towels
· Absorbent pads
· Beer, Ice, Cooler
You will get many different answers on types of oil to use. I use Mobile 1. Any reputable synthetic will do. I found that a Fram PH2 Oil Filter and compatible will fit the DB9. HOWEVER!, when I looked at the many brands of different filters, I found that the number and size of holes was much smaller than the AM filter. While I think it’s ridiculous for an oil filter to cost $64, I was not willing to chance it. I phoned the dealer in the next state who shipped me one out.
1. Put your beer on ice for when you finish.
2. Warm the car up for a few minutes.
3. Apply parking brake
4. Raise the bonnet
5. Raise car and set jack stands. The jack goes under the forward portion of the door. If you look under, you can see the metal area. I use a hockey puck on the jack lip to fit the space and avoid scratching.
6. Slide your oil catch pan under the drain plug. The plug is midway between the front wheels. There is already an opening, so no panel removal is needed.
7. Remove 16mm drain plug and drain
8. Lower the car to level
9. Remove breather hose from air intake hose
10. Remove the connector from throttle body. It can be a pain to pinch down the catches, you may try a small scrwdriver to help.
11. Remove clamp from air intake. You can use a flat head screw driver to pry up the raised portion of the clamp.
12. Remove 4 – 8mm bolts from throttle body and remove from vehicle. Take care not to damage the o-ring. Inspect the o-ring for wear. If it is flattened out, replace. Now is a good time to clean out your throttle body. I recommend doing both of them. Use cleaner from your local parts store and clean shop cloths.
13. Push the air intake hose toward the passenger side.
14. Place absorbent pads below filter. A good amount of oil will leak out.
15. Maneuver filter wrench over the filter and loosen.
16. Remove wrench before you back off the filter
17. Once you break the seal, let the excess oil drain out onto the pads for a few minutes.
18. Take the filter off, while keeping the open side upward. I put my index finger into the threaded opening to bring the filter out of the space.
19. Wipe a thin amount of new oil onto the new filter seal.
20. Reverse the steps. Tighten the filter by hand only.
21. When replacing the throttle body. Do not over tighten bolts and be careful not to pinch o-ring..
22. To replace the clamp, I used a pair of pliers and a flat-head screw driver. Place the pliers on either side of the clamp bends. While holding pressure, insert the screw driver underneath clasp and rotate the head slightly.
23. Once the oil has finished draining, place the plug back in. and fill with 11qts of oil.
24. Check oil level and add as needed.
25. Start car and check for leaks. Re-check after the oil has settled.
26. Clean up
27. Open cooler and crack open beer!
#6
03-03-2014, 07:35 AM
Not really. There is no needed to remove the throttle body on a db7 to get the filter out. It's a complete different set up.
Trending Topics
#9
04-15-2014, 02:54 PM
It is not, but it will fit and it seems like it works. Some have suggested on other forums that the "Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820" is superior to the AM OEM filter.
#11
04-16-2014, 05:34 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Walnut Creek, CA
Age: 67
Posts: 47
Rep Power: 13
I just changed my oil Friday and put the Ford Racing filter in...had it on the race track Saturday...
The hardest part of the job is getting a filter wrench on and getting the filter out through the tight space with hot components trying to fry my arm...but all went well...
I tried to get a plastic bag around it while backing it off, but if you keep it upright, not that much oil escapes onto the car...
I used brake cleaner on the drain bolt and then applied high temp silicone gasket sealer...a quick brake cleaner applied at the pan opening and get the plug in before oil drips out and no new drain plug needed.
Wipe away the excess sealer and she's good to go...
BTW...she took 12 full quarts to hit the full line...I started at 11 and it showed 1/2 quart below the low line...added the 12th quart and she was perfectly full...
There's a great article on oil filters at AMOC which led me to the Ford filter...http://www.amoc.org/forum/index.php?topic=27222.0
I did the job at a cool place call Pit Row DIY which provides the lifts, the rolling drain catch basin, all the tools etc. for $30 hr. - total cost for the job was about $200 parts, oil and lift rental compared to the 10K service price at the dealer of over $1,000.
The hardest part of the job is getting a filter wrench on and getting the filter out through the tight space with hot components trying to fry my arm...but all went well...
I tried to get a plastic bag around it while backing it off, but if you keep it upright, not that much oil escapes onto the car...
I used brake cleaner on the drain bolt and then applied high temp silicone gasket sealer...a quick brake cleaner applied at the pan opening and get the plug in before oil drips out and no new drain plug needed.
Wipe away the excess sealer and she's good to go...
BTW...she took 12 full quarts to hit the full line...I started at 11 and it showed 1/2 quart below the low line...added the 12th quart and she was perfectly full...
There's a great article on oil filters at AMOC which led me to the Ford filter...http://www.amoc.org/forum/index.php?topic=27222.0
I did the job at a cool place call Pit Row DIY which provides the lifts, the rolling drain catch basin, all the tools etc. for $30 hr. - total cost for the job was about $200 parts, oil and lift rental compared to the 10K service price at the dealer of over $1,000.
Last edited by WildBob; 04-16-2014 at 06:05 AM.
#12
04-17-2014, 01:41 AM
A few points I discovered while changing the oil. It's not absolutely necessary to remove the connector cable and hose attached to the throttle body. I managed to maneuver the oil filter by simply pushing those cables out of the way. The oil filter can also be removed by hand. Also like WildBob, I noticed keeping the filter upright keeps oil spillage to a minimum, but gripping the slick oil filter and removing it from the car required some serious finger strength.
#13
04-17-2014, 04:28 AM
Just a word of caution...
I work for a well known National Auto Parts company. We recently had a jobber that sold/installed the incorrect filter application on (nearly) new Mercedes CLK 350's. The engines were ruined in those cars and his business had to buy three of those cars from the customers/owners.
Considering the oil filter is such a small part of the overall oil change process I think I will go and get the Aston filter from a dealership.
I work for a well known National Auto Parts company. We recently had a jobber that sold/installed the incorrect filter application on (nearly) new Mercedes CLK 350's. The engines were ruined in those cars and his business had to buy three of those cars from the customers/owners.
Considering the oil filter is such a small part of the overall oil change process I think I will go and get the Aston filter from a dealership.
#14
04-17-2014, 11:39 AM
Awesome write-up and thanks for posting it!
I went the OEM route when I did my oil change. Got a great price from Stuart. It's a great way to DIY without risking aftermarket parts not properly matching.
Just a word of caution...
I work for a well known National Auto Parts company. We recently had a jobber that sold/installed the incorrect filter application on (nearly) new Mercedes CLK 350's. The engines were ruined in those cars and his business had to buy three of those cars from the customers/owners.
Considering the oil filter is such a small part of the overall oil change process I think I will go and get the Aston filter from a dealership.
I work for a well known National Auto Parts company. We recently had a jobber that sold/installed the incorrect filter application on (nearly) new Mercedes CLK 350's. The engines were ruined in those cars and his business had to buy three of those cars from the customers/owners.
Considering the oil filter is such a small part of the overall oil change process I think I will go and get the Aston filter from a dealership.
