I decided to start a new thread on this topic so those interested may join the discussion and know where to find it rather than have the info buried in another topic.

 

Aston's paint is notorious for having sanding marks or buffer trails when it leaves the factory. In fact, my dealership uses a paint correction guy on every new black car the get in the showroom. What I meant was that it wasn't as bad as others. The pictures of the cars you posted are stunning.

I have a Porter Cable and Hex Logic cutting, polishing and finishing pads. I was thinking of using Chemical Guys V32-V38 polishes. I also have the Detailer's Paint Pre-Coat Polish.

I was planning on using DP Paint Coating, Wheel Coating, and Glass Coating. I found the paint coating surprisingly easy to apply and I was amazed at its ability to repel water. What exactly did you not like about it and why do you think 22ple is better?

Also, what about stuff like Crystal Serum?

 

The PC is a fine DA polisher. Will or can do anything the upper line DA's like Rupes or Flex can do. Pads a lot of the time come down to personal preference, there are many out there.

I will put a link in here for people to read on processes, much more after these url's...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...-write-up.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...-write-up.html


1. Buffer tails and holograms are notorious from dealers. Most if not almost all detailers at dealers are old school guys who always use Rotary polishers. (high speed) and they always have used pads and don't change them out. Plus its production detailing. I visited two AM dealers and asked if they have someone they refer customers too for paint corrections. They said no, their guy does top of the line work. Then we looked at a Freshly Corrected 05 DB9 Black and I asked if it had been touched. They said it had been. What normal people think is a good job is actually horrible. Most rotary users do not know how to use one, but the big key is the products they typically use have fillers. Filler fill in the scratches when buffing and the car looks perfect. 5 washes later the holograms start showing due to the fillers diminishing and the scratches that never were removed now show.

2. Dual Action (DA) polishers not only go around but also move in a second pattern to eliminate holograms and buffer trails. They also won't burn edges or corners. Most speeds on them are under 400rpm so eliminates heat which is your enemy when polishing.

3. PC 7424xp is the entry DA which is great, and most detailers end up getting a Rupes or Flex and change the backing plate on the PC to a 3" and its stellar for that size.

4. DP, Wolfgang, Pinnacle are house brands of Autogeek.net and are excellent products. If using a Rupes polisher it comes highly recommended to use their system of polishes and pads. I use mostly Menzerna products. FG400 for the compound, and SF4000 or SF4500 for the polishes.

AM--- I would use a Lake Country Tangerine Hydro Tech pad with the SF4000 to see if that would take out any marring and holograms. If that didn't do it, then would move to the Cyan pad with the SF4000. Then to the FG400. Start light then work your way up to what it takes. Only use the least amount of correction that it takes. ( its possible that SF4500 and a light cutting pad would make it perfect being new)


If this were a personal car of mine, or a Concours level detail, or Frank

(I use Flex 3401 Rupes 75lhr 3", Griots garage 3", when needed Flex PE-14)
(switching to the Lake Country Hybrid pads that are made for the Flex specifically, and use all Rupes pads for the Rupes DA)

Compound-- LC HT Cyan 5.5 w/ FG400
Polish First step-- LC HT Tangerine 5.5 w/ SF4000 or SF4500
Polish Second step-- LC NO CUT polishing pad (red, black) w/ Rupes Diamond Polish with NO pressure on a DA and the last 4 passes actually lifting the DA up to get all weight off the paint. Jeweling the paint.

Then carefully , very carefully wash the vehicle with Dawn to rid most of the oils and possibly use a light IPA solution to carefully wipe it down. Key is to rid the vehicle of all oils and polishes for the glass coatings to adhere and bond too. this process can introduce light marks due to the IPA or panel wipe product and the Microfiber towel making them. You have to be extremely careful. Or you cause yourself additional work.

Then 22ple or Modesta coating. There are now many coatings out there. Some are better than others and are more permanent products. I personally look at the Pinnacle, DP and several other coatings as minimal ones that look and work great, but do not achieve that concours finish that I want. Modesta and 22ple are just as easy to work with, however they increase the gloss levels and you can physically tell that there is some type of glass layer on the paint. Then you move into the opticoats and the CQuartz coating. They are much more permanent ones. I have not used those and likely won't. 22ple sold me from use, and the finish is stellar.

30% of scratches, swirls come from the washing phase. 70% of scratches, swirls, and marring come from the drying phase of the car. This is through misuse of products, (you should always use the two-bucket method), and drying ultimately if you have a AM, then don't be cheap and get a Master Blaster and use air to dry it. Blowers don't work, they put a oil film on the car, and don't dry it enough.


Will be happy to answer questions, this is definitely not my primary job. I do this for a hobby and the pictures speak for themselves. I do cars for people now and then *upcoming Lambo and Jag in Washington DC this fall* but like to help where I can. Most products I have tried and used, and fell into what works the best.

 

PS---- I think I just read a review on the V38 polish and it was spoken very highly of. I have stuck with Menzerna polishes, and have not used CG V series. Their soaps are great.


22ple has now a refresher that adds additional protection, but you can top it with a carnuba for addd gloss easily. Polish Angel carnubas work excellent with this glass coating.

 

One of the things that drew me to the DP coating was its hydrophobic properties. I coated a plastic piece and then put it in the sink under running water and I was amazed at how water just sheeted off and the surface stayed pretty much dry. I don't know if 22ple is the same but one of my goals is to not have to apply a wax every 3-4 months. I will sacrifice concours-class shine for the convenience of an easier to keep clean car.

Also, I have a Metro Master Blaster and that thing is super powerful. If you look closely at some pictures of my car, you might spot it hanging on the garage wall near my water heater.

Also, just bought a gallon of CG Honeydew Foam for the foam cannon and used it for the first time to wash the new GT.

 

Yes 22ple is hydrophobic, and will last 1.5 to 2 years, that is for a daily driver vehicle too. SO yes has all the properties you want, but additional protection for the paint. The premier Ferrari paint correction company Esoteric uses it predominantly. After trying it and using it on 5 vehicles I love it, and will use it from now on. I like trying things to see how they work, but this appears to top them all. You will be pleased.

If you are going to Clear Bra the whole front of the vantage, this can go on top of that. After looking at 4 Vantages, only one had a clear bra, that one looked several times better than the rest. Made a big difference. The whole hood, and quarters were done.


22ple ----If you are looking to apply an extremely strong protective coating that will leave an incredible layer of gloss simultaneously then the 22ple VX1 Pro Glass Coating is for you. This product is a truly unique form of protection that is unlike traditional sealants or waxes but applies just as easy. VX1 Pro will leave behind a hardened high silica-content glass barrier between your paint and harmful environmental elements. It protects the surface in a unique way so contamination will not readily stick to the surface. Later on your wash mitt will glide across the paint with ease, removing the contamination safely and easily. Water will even bead and roll off the surface like never before, making the drying process faster and safer which reduces the risk of marring the paint! The protection is strong but also extremely durable making it far superior to traditional waxes and sealants. While sealants and waxes provide you with up to 6 months of protection, you can expect a whopping 18-24 months with VX1 Pro! If you're worried about the shine don't bother because it is a warm and deep gloss that commands your attention. Since you're literally applying a glass like coating to the surface you're getting that "hard candy" or "wet" appearance everyone loves. This coating will truly distinguish your vehicle from others and preserve it's value for years to come. If you are looking for a semi-permanent paint coating that makes the paint look better than new while offering durable protection then the 22ple VX1 Pro is for you!

 

Karl - thanks for digging up this thread.

I am in the process of having my car "protected" and was waiting to post my experience until it is done, but will chime in now.

I looked at a bunch of different options and talked to about 5 different highly recommended detailers in the ATL area and came down to 4 options:

1) PPF/Clear Bra
2) Modesta Line
3) Opti-Coat
4) Cquartz

I didn't hear much about 22ple but that may have just been because of the preferences of the detailers I talked with.

I ended up going with the PPF and elected to do the entire car. This may seem excessive compared to a coating to some, but I think it worked for me. I'll explain my rationale:

I was looking for something that would give me superior protection of the paint against normal swirls, as well as road damage such as rock chips, etc. The paint on on my car was in pretty good shape (I'd say 7/8 out of 10), with some minor clear coat swirling that was only noticeable in the right lighting.

If I had gone with the Modesta/Cquartz/Opti, I would have likely needed to have some paint correction done to get it to look perfect, but with the PPF, I could go as is and the adhesive and film would mask the swirls so they would be undetectable. If i had major swirling, I might have opted for correction, but this seemed to give me what I was looking for. I also ended up getting a Modesta BC-06 on the wheels.

From the research I did, it seems that both Opti and Cquartz are great options. In my opinion, if you are not doing it yourself (Opti-Coat Pro and CQuartz finest only sold to the pros), its best to go with the one your preferred detailer has experience/ faith in. Both will do a good job and it may come down to the application skill.

I'll hopefully have the car back by this weekend and can post some pics of the install and wheel coatings for anyone that has interest. I'll see if my installer took some before pics as well to show a comparison.

 

Karl,
The Crystal Serum is actually Crystal Laquer C1 by GTechniq. The C1 Crystal Laquer http://gtechniqna.com/exov2-ultra-du...ystal-lacquer/ is an excellent coating to put on the Clear Coat (CC), when followed by the EXOv2. They work in tender. The C1 and EXO are in the same family as all the other silica or quartz based coatings. The DP coatings are pretty much the exact same as the Pinnacle Black Label which is a ceramic coating. Slightly different and goes on like a cream rather than a alcohol chemical clear liquid. In my opinion you would be happier with the GT or 22ple products hands down.

GTechniq products are top of the line also, although I am partial to the 22ple or Modesta lines, the GT would be great also (C1 w/ EXOv2). I stay away from the CQuartz or Optimum lines due to only that I have heard they are not the easiest to use, and the permanent quality of them. I like to refine my finishes when the need arises. With the 22ple or the GT you can just as simple as if there was a reg sealant on the CC. However you gain the advantages of the coatings. Increasing the gloss levels are paramount for me also.

Detialed Image has a 20% off sale through the 19th for 22ple and all their produce. Autogeek has a ONE day flash sale "sept16flash" code for today the 16th for most available items. GT is avail there.

 

After you mentioned it yesterday, I started looking at the Detailed Image website and saw the sale. I even put the 22ple in my shopping cart but haven't pulled the trigger. Autogeek doesn't seem to carry it. Given your experience which would you say a newbie like me should get? I don't mind spending the money even though I already bought the DP coating because I want to make sure I use the best product I possibly can. But ease of application is important since I don't have much experience. Obviously you have put a lot of time and effort into this so I how to your superior expertise.

Also, I see 22ple comes in different kits. If you recommend that over the GT, which kit should I order?

 

Karl,
22ple. Get it. You can do your car with 20ml, but it will be tight. I am supposed to pick up a daily driver (S55 AMG Black) for myself friday. I just bought a 30ml 22ple PRO version (its slightly better) and a bottle of 20ml Wheel and rim. I got 6 little applicators for it. I will have some left over. I can do the whole car with 15ml. This will be for the wood interior, rims, exhaust tips, paint etc...

Paint correction, then wash thoroughly with Dawn and let the soap dwell a bit on the paint to remove all oils, then Blaster dry.

22ple - Take the bottle and dab the applicator then apply to front quarter. Apply in a cross hatch pattern to diminish any high spots. Then the rest panel to panel. Less is more, newbies tend to use more product than necessary. Video on DI Pro Blog . Allow 3min to go by then take a MF towel and wipe off. Then another to buff it. Proceed from there. When finished allow 24hours before driving, then 3 days before wet weather. Take 9 days to fully cure and the gloss levels will increase over that time. this can be topped with a good carnuba for increased gloss levels. It also helps to maintain the coating and make it last longer. One year on the NSX below, and still just the same as the day I applied it.

? are the yellow areas vinyl products? or paint. You can top PFF films with the coatings no problem and is highly suggested, however I have no done vinyl myself. Best to test a inconspicuous area first for that. Like inside the nose. Likely will be just fine and a good thing. But always test no matter what for everything. Even the coating on paint. Test under lower passenger rear, best place, and then back passenger quarter. Thats plastic and aluminum so you get results of both worlds. Reason why is if something messes up (customers car), they don't have to see the screw up everyday when walking up to the car till you get it repaired.


We can talk when you do this.


I would suggest a Nano Skin 6" fine defect remover, then a fine polish (SF4500 or Rupes Diamond) to bring the gloss to perfection. The vehicle will have contaminants on the paint likely. Test it by putting your hand in a sandwich bag and lightly rubbing the paint in various places. If it feels rough at all , then there is contaminants.

Wheels were not done on this one--

 

Most likely yes

[/QUOTE] ended up going with the PPF and elected to do the entire car. This may seem excessive compared to a coating to some, but I think it worked for me. I'll explain my rationale:

I was looking for something that would give me superior protection of the paint against normal swirls, as well as road damage such as rock chips, etc. The paint on on my car was in pretty good shape (I'd say 7/8 out of 10), with some minor clear coat swirling that was only noticeable in the right lighting.

If I had gone with the Modesta/Cquartz/Opti, I would have likely needed to have some paint correction done to get it to look perfect, but with the PPF, I could go as is and the adhesive and film would mask the swirls so they would be undetectable. If i had major swirling, I might have opted for correction, but this seemed to give me what I was looking for. I also ended up getting a Modesta BC-06 on the wheels.

From the research I did, it seems that both Opti and Cquartz are great options. In my opinion, if you are not doing it yourself (Opti-Coat Pro and CQuartz finest only sold to the pros), its best to go with the one your preferred detailer has experience/ faith in. Both will do a good job and it may come down to the application skill.

I'll hopefully have the car back by this weekend and can post some pics of the install and wheel coatings for anyone that has interest. I'll see if my installer took some before pics as well to show a comparison.[/QUOTE]

@Mindscape9
Please take this as NOT diminishing your decisions, being judgmental, or belittling you in any way. I am only offering my insight to what you wrote, but in the end the "customer gets what they want, but after they have been properly advised" I am now filing you in with all the questions you should ask, and make sure when you pick your car up, you look at it in the SUN and view it in a way so you are looking AT the SUN where it shines on the paint. Whatever angle that might take. Then look for the swirls. If you see them, then start asking them why. They did tell you that it would mask them. So make them take responsibility for it. Hopefuly they are so minor that they will be difficult to see. However here is advice for anyone who wants this process done.

1. XPEL Ultimate (self healing) or other brand clear protection (PFF) for a whole vehicle is awesome. A friend has a E63 done that way. No better way to protect the CC for a long time to come. HIGHLY recommended, Every Aston I have looked at without it on the front end has rock damage, chips etc. The two that have had it, were perfect, like new. (the plastic can use a sealant or coating also, to help protect from UV and help keep dust and dirt off it. Secret - they can be buffed a tad by a professional to get rid of very light marks) XPEL Ultimate has a automotive grade clear coat and all coatings will bond properly to the film. This will not have any adverse affects of the healing properties of the film. This helps seal the pores of the plastic and protects things further. Highly recommended. ALWAYS inspect the vehicle when you pick it up for, hairs, debris, and most importantly razor blade cut marks. It happens. Look everywhere along the seams, and anywhere you think a cut was made. Verify that, this is the only opportunity for you to find it and make them responsible. A respectable place likely will be very careful so that doesn’t happen. Price will usually dictate that. (Tinting windows this happens a lot)

2. NO permanent or semi-permanent covering should ever be applied to a CC painted surface without removing all swirls, scratches, defects etc.. Period. This includes a PFF. Also the CC must be perfectly clean, no hairs, no dust etc… If this process is not done, I really am not sure I would even do the work at that point. I would have to decline the job. My job is to perfect the look of the car and protect it, that is going backwards and a waste in my opinion. Giving the proper advice that is best for the customer, not best for my wallet is the proper way to do a good business. Here is a job that was re-done by a friend who had a similar situation where the initial company did not do their job properly or give the proper advice.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...-xpel-ppf.html


3. If your CC had minimal swirls, ( I hope they checked it using a light and showed you) then that’s great, that means only a light polishing to not only get rid of the swirls, but increase the gloss levels. You said the Paint was a 7/8 out of 10. Then if I were advising you, the paint should have been brought up to a 9.8-10 before anything else was done. That is the first step, before anything else. The surface should be or must be as perfect as possible.

However the finish that is left under the plastic, that’s what you will be left with. Nothing worse than seeing swirls and scratches in the Sun, that are trapped under plastic, and the only way to get rid of them is to replace the plastic. PFF's in todays time are crystal clear about just the same as window tint. Window tint does not hinder any clarity, just like the PFF won't. A customer will pay multiple thousands of dollars to do the whole car, why not inform them for not much more, the paint will be perfect before hand. I have no way of knowing, but if they told you that the plastic would help cover up the swirls and make then not as noticeable, then that was extremely poor advice. Whatever the finish is, is what you will see. The plastic is not supposed to take away from the look of the vehicle, it just is supposed to provide an extra barrier. Properly done, you shouldn't be able to tell it was there, until you rub your hand on it. It should be just as nice and glossy as without it. Some colors of cars change when a PFF is applied, white is an example. It is highly recommended to put a sealant or coating on a white car with PFF to reduce the wavelengths of light so the proper color can be seen. (scientific stuff)

4. BC-06 is a air spray on type. Nice product, just didn't know anyone was using it here in the states. But a wheel coating is an absolute must. Make sure they are doing the WHOLE wheel, not just the outside. That is a must. Take the wheel off the car, clean it thoroughly, and then polish if need be to get the gloss up, especially in the barrel, and then coat. That would be the proper process. I would charge 250-350 plus materials for that. It’s a good bit of work to make right but one of the first things people see.

5. Coatings is a newer thing. Most or a lot of non high end detailers don't even know about them, or even if they do, they have not used them. CQ, Opti, GT, 22ple, Modesta are all top of the line coatings. For a perfectionist, the GT, 22ple, and Modesta would be my suggestions, due to you can still polish if or when needed to remove and scratches that happen, then re-coat. With the others, they are more permanent products that make that difficult.

Modesta BC-05 is my suggestion, and maybe the BC-03 for the wheels, but the BC-05 works just fine on the wheels too Very expensive to do, there is a primer to do which is just as expensive cost wise as the coating. Primer will have some left but cost is around 450.00 for the two products. A total car would be around 900 to do properly, with no high spots and everything covered.

GT and 22ple you can get for under 200 cost total, and that’s for separate products for wheels, glass, CC (paint and interior). I feel they give you just as much bang for the buck, I have used them all. Gloss levels are all similar. Cant go wrong, it comes down to personal preference. IF someone from here gets one of these, I can help them with the process. I would be around 600 or so for those. However, KEEP in mind if you are doing XPEL or a different PPF DO NOT have a coating on the CC before the film. The coatings MUST go on after the application of a Film. Also GTechniq does not play well with XPEL, here is a video explaining that. The EXO product was applied before the film so the film did not stick properly. Also you can visibly see how clear the film actually is, and therefore would show any defect in the paint unless removed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdEDK...ature=youtu.be


This thread was started by Frank so that forum members have somewhere to go to ask questions, asked for advice, gain knowledge and make smart decisions. Most of what I have written is foreign to most people. My good friend with that NSX thought he was keeping the car perfect, and waxing and it was the best it could be. I did 24hours of work, and he swears its now better than when it was new in 96. Was amazed and most people would feel the same way. A proper paint correction, even on a brand new car like Franks will make the difference. ANY new car needs one, albeit a mild one, but still as Frank, he has found sanding marks, and buffer trials and holograms on his brand new Vantage. So just because a car is new, does not mean it cant look much better. It can for sure.

My History-- I have been detailing (what i thought was detailing) for 20 years. Started off with a Rotary high-speed buffer, wool pads and then progressed from there. It has always been a passion with me to make my vehicles as best as they can be, and my work was always above par. Since 2011, I noticed the Dual Action buffers coming on the market, which changed the industry. I bought the entry-level Porter Cable 7424xp model and soon realized the power was nowhere near enough for the work I wanted to do. I was learning the Paint Correcting process. I learned and bought a Flex and Rupes buffers which are two of the best. Testing products, (not all cars use the same products, the CC react differently from car to car, and even panel-to-panel (NSX). I have been fortunate to own very nice vehicles and had friends who did also. These have all been done to stellar results, especially when you take a 06 Maserati and make it better than when new in 06. Takes time, effort and patience. I love doing the work, but more than that, I enjoy helping others make appropriate decisions and working them through the processes also. This is not my real job, its a expensive hobby in reality.

Here is some information -

Detailing - Thorough wash, interior clean, exterior typical 1 step AIO (all in one) product. This will lightly remove only the light swirls, and then polish the CC, and leave a sealant.

Paint Correction - Same as above but usually with a 2- step polish process then a sealant or coating. Two step would be a type of compound to remove and level the CC, then a polish to bring out the gloss levels and remove any and all micro marring left from the compounding stage. ( I would do a 2-4 step for concours level)

Sealant - sealants are chemical based and last 5 months or so, also called wax but they are synthetic and last longer. Typical maintenance product provides a nice gloss, but not as much depth as a natural carnauba.

Wax - carnauba paste, liquid last 3 weeks to 2 months pending heat and environment. Provides a deep warm gloss with depth, usually used on purpose for car shows and events. There are many levels and types of this wax, prices reflect quality typically. You can spend 15$US to 1kUS or more. Most quality ones I have seen range from 50-200. Pinnacle Sovereign is one.

Most people confuse all of the above and do not know what their differences are. Typical products available at a local store are not enough quality for a AM, in my opinion. All the products on the shelf are watered down, and are meant for the once every two-year weekend warrior. Not saying there might be a diamond in there, just for the most part, when someone says they bought all products at a Auto Zone or Walmart, I know what to expect.

Micro Fiber Towels should be used for all surfaces on the vehicle. Any other type of product is introducing scratches to the CC and other surfaces.

Please start asking questions if anyone wants to know more, or about a product. Chances are I have used it and can lend some advice. ALL this work can be learned by a beginner and the results achieved with practice, technique and time. My good friend Larry Kosilla owns AMMONYC.com and you can go there and view all of his videos. They will teach you about products and how to apply them or use them. AUTOGEEK.net also has a ton of valuable products. Autogeek or Detailed Image are two of the best places to purchase items of quality also.

Hopefully this helps members out. I just decided to put off a AM purchase till late spring, then find the perfect one for me. So I am a lurker till that point, but happy to help on this front. Anyone in the southeast (SC,NC<VA,GA) I can possibly led a hand to actual work. I travel a lot, but have time in-between.


Andrew

 

SheriffDep, my shop is the one performing the full body clear bra wrap. I've been performing intensive paint corrections for almost 10 years and have been installing clear bra for many years as well. My shop is the only one in Georgia offering intensive paint corrections (40-60 hour jobs are typical), ppf installations, CQF, OCP as well as Modesta all done in house by myself and my technician.

Mindscape9's AM had defects, yes. But were they so bad that they would show through the clear bra? No. You mention that clear bra will not mask defects and that's just not accurate. Should someone install ppf over defects? As far as I am concerned that is their call. We've done a lot of wraps that included full correction prior to the install, but that was the owner's call.

Here's the thing. If ppf improves the appearance of defects in clear coat and they are weighing the option of a full wrap they should strongly consider how long they will keep the car. I will present two scenarios:

Both scenarios are the same car with medium defects on their car.
1) The owner spends a lot of money correcting the paint prior to ppf installation and then spends a lot of money on ppf installed on the whole car. The car looks great and meets the visual needs of the owner. 3~5 years later he sells the car and the film is never removed.

2) The owner opts out of paint correction due to the fact that ppf does offer masking of defects and then spends money having the whole car wrapped with ppf. It meets the visual needs of the owner. 3~5 years later he sells the car and the film is never removed.

What's the difference? The one universal difference, no matter who owns the car, is that the paint correction scenario will cost more. How much more? That depends on the condition of the car and experience, quality and rapport of the correction expert. In the case of my shop, there is no cheap paint correction. We don't offer shoddy 8 hour paint correction jobs. It starts at 20 hours and will look the part.

What's the same? It will sell for the same regardless of the paint correction as long as it looks great.

For some owners, the idea that defects could lurk under clear bra that masks eats them up and they feel it MUST be correction prior to having film installed. For some folks, they just want it to look nice, be well protected and sell for a premium and the defects are just not a realized reality because they will never see or experience them.

Because I know without a doubt that clear bra film improves the appearance of surface defects(sans paint chips or large physical blemishes), I believe my client, the owner of a car, is smart enough to make the choice as to if they wish to correct superficial clear coat damage or not.

A prime example of clear bra's defect masking ability:
A small piece of clear bra installed over some insane clear coat damage(which in his case he chose to correct prior to wrapping)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/autodetailingpros/15023094580/
And a video of how defects are masked:


For anyone, make sure you do your own due-diligence before moving forward with a service. Clear bra, paint correction, detailing and coatings(all of them) can be cast in any light. Do your own research before believing anything you read. Researching all available information will give you a better foundation before you speak with a professional. Once you have the different angles of a service, sort out the bits that appear unfounded or biased and move forward accordingly.

SheriffDep, this is not an attempt to attack you. But you're undermining a wise choice made by a client who's been thoroughly educated as to his options. At no point did I attempt to sway him into spending more or less money. For me it's about educating the owner and then understanding they are smart enough to make the choice that fits them the best.

Mindscape9 picked up his Aston this afternoon and it was presented in direct sunlight. We looked at the car for probably 30 minutes outside and if he decides to, he can offer his .02 about how the car looks even though no correction was performed. For those who will attend Caffeine and Exotics tomorrow, feel free to look out for a Meteorite Silver Metallic Aston Martin Vantage and you can see for yourself.

 

^^^^ Thanks for the pics and video. The results speak for themselves. It is a dramatic improvement.

 

JC,
Great write up for that. Due to that image I stand corrected for the most part about the swirls being masked. I have seen where they showed before, so that was my thought. Man enough to say I was wrong.

I sincerely hope that between our two posts anyone would be properly educated with the various processes.

Sounds like your shop is as MS said, high end. Also sounds like you do take care of the customer which so many don't. I appreciate your insight to me, and to the members here. All it is supposed to do is help the AM owners make the cars beautiful.

I personally, which I am sure you are too, relentless on my personal car, and a few others made perfect. However, I realize a ton of people say its so shiny, and we look at it and say wow so horrible. But, they the customer is ecstatic. But do to your post I am sure Mindscapes AM looked great without a doubt.

I am unique, I only do the 30+ hour jobs. It is not my primary job, and its only a passion I do. I also learn a little every time I do a job, and perfect my skills. I am not the best out there but try to make sure I know what I am doing. It's fairly rare to find correctors that take pride in what they do, and do exceptional work.

Question---- XPEL or other PPF, do you suggest a coating on top or not. If so or not so could you lend your experience. Also using the expel on a white car I have heard that your should use a sealant on it to help with appearance due too the white. I have no idea that is why i am asking.


Thanks for chiming in, after all its helping others. I am sure the members appreciate it.

SD

 

Sheriff, coatings over clear bra are purely preference. Whether over clear bra or on top of clear bra, coatings require their own level of maintenance.