if no real prospect of fitment of enhanced clutch, that is a shame. The fitting process is near identical.

whatever the clutch, hope you get your car back in fine fettle!

 

I had my manual clutch go out a month ago also. No symptoms prior. My am is my weekend car which I barely drive. One weekend I noticed the shifting became harder and harder to get in and out of the gates. A mile later I heard a pop sound and my car was dead. Got it towed to gmg racing and found out my pressure plate had cracked Andy clutch exploded.

I replaced my clutched with the rsc lightweight flywheel and clutch combo. Cost was north of $6k but the car now drives much better than before. Car revs quicker and feels more torquey. Definitely worth the upgrade.

 

Im suitably jealous now...I will hope to have the details of my failure on Monday and will post it for us to share amongst AM purists
i never had a sound from mine I was expecting slipping in the higher gears.

 

Captain Greg--"Is your a sport shift or manual? ". Mine is a Manual, and it failed as shown at about 10,000 miles. Symptom was that I couldn't shift-up after hard acceleration at high RPM. I had to wait until RPM dropped down below about 3,500 before I could shift up. This was determined to be a mechanical failure and was covered under warrantee.

 

I have clutch anxiety... If my clutch went and I had to pay 6k+ I think my wife would kill me.

 

I don't like the "ford" style clutch, but its pretty good, until something fails on it. (this is a manufacturer defect or weakness that not all clutch pressure plates have)
why do you expect it to slip in higher gears? there is the exact same force on the clutch in the high vs low gears. However, it is easier to cook the clutch in the higher gears with mis matched RPM and full throttle.. (as the clutch tries to speed up the car and pull down the engine RPM and the slipping kills the clutch.)

 

I just know from riding bikes the clutch slip is easily attainable in say 6the gear, in first or second we hardly feel it, with the machine accelerating so fast, not sure I agree with your assessment on the matter? in 6th gear at say 5000rpm the car has 4 times the drag it would have in first? therefore one will not only see the rpm go up and the speedo stay stagnant, (difficult in first gear) I refer to a clutch that is just starting to slip in that comment you know like when its warning you to get it looked at.

 

thanks to all the guys who followed this thread, today i got the car back from Aston Martin CT.
Im relieved to say my pocket was reduced by ZAR78567.00 (7300 USD) in this country you can buy a good small family car for that!!!

Ok I was unable to get a photo of the clutch (I forgot in all the excitement of getting it back) that said it was one of the springs in the center of the actual clutch plate that disintegrated, that in turn jammed the slave (release bearing) from pushing the clutch, my car has 27586 Km on it when it failed, the actual clutch plate was still good for many miles and about 2mm from the rivets.
Quick question for Telum, Karl or Irish and other members in the know, I start it and while idling I depress the clutch pedal then while still in neutral I release the peadl fast, there seems to be a bit of a clunking noise from the bell housing area? is this normal?

Oh and the new clutch is feather light on the pedal, but still not worth the 7300USD

 

I really don't recall hearing any clunking noise coming from mine, but I don't remember the last time I did that with the clutch pedal. I can try it tonight when I get home from work.

 

the clutch will only slip when the force produced by the road (mismatched rpm downshift) or car (mismatched RPM upshift), is greater force than the clutch can hold. generally, this is max torque of the engine.
so, looking at matched RPM shifts or being in any one gear, any slip under WOT, will happen most likely at max torque of the engine, which is around 5000rpm. it doesn't matter if the car is in 6th or 3rd or 1st. it doesn't matter if you have more aero drag , or you are riding the brake and flooring it at the same time, or on a dyno . if its going to slip, it will do it in any gear as the forces on the clutch are exactly the same . (regardless of the gear)... the reason you see it more likely in 5th or 6th, is that you are at those max torque RPM ranges for a longer time, whereas in 1st, you blow through the max torque value of the engine, as you go to redline (much lower torque value). So, yes, it will be more noticeable in the taller gears, say, 3rd gear and higher for that reason. But, if you are in 1st, and crusing at 5000rpm and floor it, if there is slip, it will slip just as it will do at 150mph in 6th.
Don't confuse drag at high speed as being a factor. its all about net force to the rear wheels.... in both 1st and 6th gear the net force to accelerate the car is different, ( for many reasons, one being drag, the most important being gear ratios, as force at the wheels is inversely proportional to speed) and that effects how fast the car accelerates. but the force at the clutch is identical if the torque of the engine is at the max.... the clutch doesn't know you are going 150mph or 30mph. It's just transferring the peak torque to the driveline through the clutch plate friction clamp.

 

Same problem, need to replace the clutch, but heard that other parts need to be replaced when replacing the clutch, is this correct? What part number clutch do you get. AmV8 07 6 speed!

 

its advisable to replace the slave cylinder (release bearing) the clutch will come with a new flywheel and pressure plate my advise if you live in the UK or states get a Bamford Rose Kit or a kit from Stuart on this forum, so little difference in price soooomuch more joy....and km's

 

I think there was a 'bad batch' of OEM clutches where this was an isolated occurrence. Not something that anyone should be concerned about recurring.

 

If you have a manual transmission you can get away with re-facing the flywheel once, Sportshift guys should not.

It is also advisable but not necessary to replace the slave cylinder/release bearing. It is not a 'cheap' part, but so much of the cost of clutch replacement is labour that unless you're really tight for cash I would suggest changing the slave. It is $424.07 for a manual slave.

6G33-7540-AL is the clutch part number, it is $2056.82RRP at current pricing.

Other parts to replace - flywheel bolts (cheap) and engine rear main oil seal ($20.) Not necessary but you are crazy if you don't change those parts.

 

Hi Greg, just for clarity, not been with RSC for nearly 2 years now. The setup I sell is my own brand VelocityAP.

RSC are a good bunch of guys though