Year: 1990
Make: Nissan
Model: Skyline
Price: $22000
Mileage: 118900
Color: Black
Private or Dealer Listing: Private Listing
Location (State): Can-ON
Transmission: Manual
Drivetrain: 4WD & AWD

Please bear with me, I like to be thorough, there is a LOT to describe about my ownership with the car.

Up for sale is my 1990 Nissan Skyline GTR32. I have owned this car for 3 years, and I am the 2 second owner since coming to Canada. Current mileage on the car is just shy of 119k KMs (74k Miles). I have only put roughly 4000kms on the car since owning it. It only gets driven on nice days and is stored in a heated, insulated garage and stored for the winter. I have only been caught in the rain once – the day I purchased the car and had to travel 800kms home with it. It is currently registered, and insured and on the road with no issues.

For those unfamiliar with the car, it has a 2.6L straight 6, twin turbo all-wheel drive monster. It comes with 5 speed manual transmission, power windows, locks and mirrors. It comes from factory with 280hp, but now with current modifications should be in the neighborhood of 400whp. This is a 500+ wheel horsepower car with larger injectors and a tune.
I have over 15$k in parts and work into the car and a binder full of receipts to prove it. I also have kept a log of mileage and what was installed so you can correspond that with the stack of receipts I have. You will see that almost everything on the car has less than 5000kms on it.

Long story short, my motor **** the bed spring of 2013. Lost oil pressure and developed a knock but luckily did not spin any bearings. Motor was pulled over the winter of 2013/14 and shipped to RS Tuning in Toronto for strip down and rebuild. The motor was blueprinted and rebuilt with all new bolts, bearings, gaskets, you name it, it’s all brand new. Block was honed and lapped to OEM bore of 86mm. Head was checked for valve seat leakage, and crank was micro polished and checked for straightness. New ACL main and con-rod bearings were used, new ARP con-rod bolts, new ARP head-bolts and new Cometic head gasket 0.51 thickness was installed. Additionally, new Hastings piston ring set and new N1 oil pump were installed.

Now for those that know, oiling and oil pump are vital to the RB26’s longevity. Since getting the motor back and installing it & going through proper break-in procedure, oil pressure and temp is spot on where it should be. Cold start pressure is between 6-6.5 bar, and on warm idle a solid 2.1-2.2 bar. I have put 315kms on the motor and turbos, everything is still very new. With the addition of a 19 row oil cooler, my oil temps have stayed very cool, I have yet to see anything over 80°.

Exterior - The car isn’t perfect, but it is a very clean example of a well taken care of GTR. I detail cars on the side and have always kept it in very good condition. Just a couple weeks ago I finished doing a paint correction and sealed the paint with Opti-coat, a semi-permanent clear coat. There are a couple rock chips on the hood and driver’s door but otherwise very clean as you can see from the pictures. The car was re-sprayed prior to my ownership, so it likely only has under 5000kms on it. Before I detailed the paint and especially afterwards, I have got so many positive comments about the condition of the car and how well it looks and how well it is kept. The depth of the paint and reflection quality is ridiculous as you can see from some of the photos.

Interior - Is also very clean, but again not perfect. There is a small hole on the seam of the driver’s seat bolster, and the plastic padding on the driver’s floor mat has warn away from your heal resting there. Unlike so many other GTR’s of this age, the dash has NOT bubbled in the crease or cracked anywhere for that matter. Seats and carpet look new, no stains, or spills. I am not a smoker, and haven’t had any pets or food for that matter in the car. In the condition it is in, it is unlikely the previous owner smoked or mistreated it also. The dash vents are still all intact and function correctly.

Motor – The motor is still within the specified break-in period set by my builder. I have only driven the car roughly 300kms since receiving the motor back and getting everything installed and running. I haven’t hit any more than 5lbs of boost during this period, but can tell you it pulls very strong even for going easy on it. The motor starts and runs without issue, does not hesitate or misfire. It also does not burn any oil, or blow any smoke of any color.

Below is a list of other work done to the car up till its current state.

Engine:
- Rebuilt and blueprinted (under 500kms ago – still on break-in)
- Hastings piston rings set. Oem bore 86mm.
- ACL con rod bearings std size
- ACL main bearings std size
- Cometic head gasket. 0.51 thickness
- Block was honed and surface lapped
- New Nissan n1 oil pump
- Head was checked for valve seat leakage
- Head was surface lapped both head and block were lapped to 40 RA.
- New oem Nissan gaskets including oil pump, intake manifold.
- All bearing clearances are on set on .0003 of oem limit for ex clearance
- New ARP headbolts
- Crank shaft was micropolished and checked for straightness.
- Greddy Oil block adapter for oil cooler (-10AN fittings)
- 19 Row Mishimoto oil cooler (-10AN fittings)
- New Garret GT2860r Turbos (under 500kms on them)
- Braided oil and water turbo feed lines
- Beatrush Rad Cooling Panel
- JUN oil collar
- Eagle rods
- Cryo treated gears
- New OEM water pump
- New idlers tensioners and springs
- Greddy timing belt
- New valve seals and brass valve guides with port and polish
- Full Nissan RB26 OEM gasket set; all gaskets replaced including copper washers for turbo oil and coolant lines,
- New front and rear main seals
- New silicone heater hoses and stainless steel hose clamps
- Samco rad hoses
- BLITZ copper core rad
- R34 NUR GTR center coil pack garnish
- Spec stage 3+ clutch (less than 500kms on it)
- Divorced Twin turbo pipe
- Apexi Dual intakes
- Mines titanium Dump pipes
- Greddy Downpipe
- Veilside 3" catback
- Intake manifold, rocker covers, coilpack cover, & TT pipe powder coated black
- Decatted stock cat pipe

Suspension/Transmission/Brakes:
- Miro Racing wheels – 18x9.5 +20
- Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires (255/35/18 all around)
- New OEM drilled and vented rotors
- EBC green stuff brake pads
- Cusco Type Zero-1 coilovers (11kg fronts/9kg rears)
- Cusco front & Rear strut bars
- Cusco Master cylinder brace
- HEL Stainless braided brakelines
- KTS Stainless braided clutchline
- Genuine C's Racing short shifter
- Project Kics 15mm spacer (rear)
- Project Kics 15mm spacer (front)

Interior:
- Alcantara shift boot
- Alcantara E-brake boot
- NISMO Ball Shift **** – White
- Genuine C’s short shifter (super rare)
- Prosport Premium electric boost gauge (peak/hold/warning)
- Prosport Premium Electric Oil Temp gauge
- Prosport Premium Electric Oil pressure gauge
- AEM UEGO Wideband a/f gauge (brand new)
- Greddy Turbo Timer
- Greddy Profec B Spec 2 Electronic Boost Controller
- Nismo gauge cluster
- Nardi Steering wheel
- New pioneer speakers in door cards
- Kenwood KDC-MP142 headunit (plays CDs, music from thumb drives & AUX input)

Things that need to be mentioned...

I like to be completely transparent when selling anything, especially a vehicle. Like mentioned above, the car isn’t perfect by any means, it does show normal wear and tear for being a 25 year old vehicle. However, every attempt (at least during my ownership) has been to preserve and protect the condition. Underbody is very clean, there really is no rust anywhere. Some of the bolt heads have surface rust which is normal and on just about any vehicle, but that is it. There are no dents on any panel. All four fender inner lips have been rolled, and on the odd bigger bump you may experience a tire rub (rare though). In the cabin, the clock doesn’t illuminate, and the power folding mirrors do not work – both of which didn’t function before I bought the car. When I did the motor pull/install, I removed all A/C components from the engine bay – it worked ice cold prior. I have all parts removed if you want to reinstall.

Now I’m sure I’m forgetting stuff from the mod list, there has been a ton of stuff purchased and installed over the last 3 years of owning the car. This was my absolute dream car since getting into cars and the tuning scene. I have almost exclusively owned Nissans for the last 15 years, and feel that it is time to move on. The ONLY reason I have listed my GTR for sale is to pursue another dream car, a Porsche 911. The one I’ve had my eye on has recently became available, the sale of my GTR would help greatly. I am still very much on the fence about selling it, if the right person comes forward hopefully a deal can be made.

US Buyers...
For any persons interested in the United States, the car will be fully Federally Legal come January 2015. Arrangements can be made to help facilitate a nice easy sale into the US. I live right on a border crossing from Canada and can easily bring the car over into the US. We can cross this bridge when we get to it.

I think that is just about it for a complete and honest description of my car. I have tried to outline all the pros and cons to the best of my knowledge. If there is anything I missed I will update the post. For any other questions or comments, please do not hesitate to ask, I would be more than happy to assist you.

I am asking 22,000$ obo for the car. It was appraised at 20k when I purchased it and have since invested the above into it. I think that is a very fair price. If you don’t agree with it, please keep your comments to yourself.

 

More photos...

 

Just some of the documents...

 

nice car there OP i can see you took very well care of her, i missed one thing what ecu is on the car? here's my cell for texting 856 426 9607, thanks

 

Thanks for the kind words, this car has been babied. The car is still running the stock ECU. Plans were to eventually get the motor broken-in, then install NiStune and dyno tune it at the same shop my motor was built at.

 

oh ok so with the install of Nistune and possible bigger injectors the motor can support maybe close to 500 whp? what's the ballpark cost of the Nistune,injectors,and a full dynotune?

 

Yes, I have seen other GTRs with the same setup make high 400s to very low 500whp. With 600cc or 720cc it should be achievable with the right tuner. As for the nistune board and tune, i was quoted in the neighbourhood of 800-1000 for everything at the shop that built my motor.

I also sent you a txt as well.

 

nice car OP and glws!

 

Car is officially sold. Goodbye sweet prince!

 

i met Paul Walker yesterday!