Bentley GT Main Battery Dilemma
#91
01-20-2017, 11:29 AM
Administrator
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Montgomery NJ
Posts: 3,213
Rep Power: 1002 
....Inaugaration Day...3am our time...Jan 20 2017...Hello Johnny...My car is 2010 Speed...
Trying to r/r the Main battery (left side) has been a good learning experience. All wires and cables are tied off and the space is clear, the battery is loose...I have determined it is not possible to remove the battery without removing the large fuse/relay panel mounted above the battery. I am not prepared to do that. There is just not enough clearance to lift the battery up out of the well. Perhaps earlier models of the Cont. series are different. I would like to hear from some folks out there who have done this job....I hate to give up on a project, but you can't win em all...JimB
Trying to r/r the Main battery (left side) has been a good learning experience. All wires and cables are tied off and the space is clear, the battery is loose...I have determined it is not possible to remove the battery without removing the large fuse/relay panel mounted above the battery. I am not prepared to do that. There is just not enough clearance to lift the battery up out of the well. Perhaps earlier models of the Cont. series are different. I would like to hear from some folks out there who have done this job....I hate to give up on a project, but you can't win em all...JimB
Post some pics if you can, or send them to my cell, my main battery sits 2-1/2 inches in the well, but has 4 inches clearance from top of battery to the bottom of the fuse panel, so that leaves me 1-1/2 inches of clearance to lift out, it is tight, so you can remove the three T-20 torx screws holding the fuse panel in it's box, then pull the fuse panel out of the box and swing toward the front on the vehicle, next remove the three 10 or 11 mm nuts as shown in picture to remove the fuse panel box completely out of your way, 2 nuts up top as shown, and 1 nut to the right of the fuse panel as shown in the picture with torx screw.
Note: the three torx screws are short, 3/4 of an inch, so don't drop them like I just did.....
time for the magnet.... got it ! all back together..
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 01-20-2017 at 11:41 AM.
#92
01-20-2017, 02:48 PM
....damit Johnny, just when I think I'm out, you pull me back in...OK since our new President is making everything great again...I'll give it another try....Off with the fuse/relay panel...
another question....do you know what the relay in picture #432 controls...the reason I ask is that mine show a little anomaly right in the center of the number 3...in your picture you have the same anomaly...just curious JimB Oh, how do I find your project on the Site...what is the title...
another question....do you know what the relay in picture #432 controls...the reason I ask is that mine show a little anomaly right in the center of the number 3...in your picture you have the same anomaly...just curious JimB Oh, how do I find your project on the Site...what is the title...
#93
01-20-2017, 03:28 PM
Administrator
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Montgomery NJ
Posts: 3,213
Rep Power: 1002
Reply in RED....
....damit Johnny, just when I think I'm out, you pull me back in.. Spoken like a true Jersey Boy.... 
.OK since our new President is making everything great again...I'll give it another try....Off with the fuse/relay panel... It' a beautiful day !!!
another question....do you know what the relay in picture #432 controls...the reason I ask is that mine show a little anomaly right in the center of the number 3...in your picture you have the same anomaly...just curious JimB . Relay with #432 on it is relay #49 and is the Battery management relay #2. see attachment below and see pages 1-21 and 1-23 for relay layout, it may differ for your year, but I don't think so.
Oh, how do I find your project on the Site...what is the title..
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-pictures.html
Click this ^^^^^^^^^^^^
.OK since our new President is making everything great again...I'll give it another try....Off with the fuse/relay panel... It' a beautiful day !!!
another question....do you know what the relay in picture #432 controls...the reason I ask is that mine show a little anomaly right in the center of the number 3...in your picture you have the same anomaly...just curious JimB . Relay with #432 on it is relay #49 and is the Battery management relay #2. see attachment below and see pages 1-21 and 1-23 for relay layout, it may differ for your year, but I don't think so.
Oh, how do I find your project on the Site...what is the title..
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-pictures.html
Click this ^^^^^^^^^^^^
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 01-20-2017 at 03:45 PM.
#94
01-20-2017, 06:43 PM
.....Johnny....got the relay/fuse panel....got the one nut under the box....stood on my head in trunk for half hour trying to find the other 2...where are those suckers....JimB
#95
01-21-2017, 05:42 AM
Saturday January 21 2017 4:30am
...time was I could work at these little projects all nite...that was then this is now...for those out there going to try to r/r the left Main battery...on my 2010 Speed, you must detach the fuse/relay panel and box mounted above battery...unless you can levitate the 60 pound battery...a little added challenge is trying to get this done working half in dark, with no electric in a 100 car garage, with half of your tools...all good...could not possible get done without Johnny's excellent assistance...OK back to finding last 2 bolts holding box...JimB
...time was I could work at these little projects all nite...that was then this is now...for those out there going to try to r/r the left Main battery...on my 2010 Speed, you must detach the fuse/relay panel and box mounted above battery...unless you can levitate the 60 pound battery...a little added challenge is trying to get this done working half in dark, with no electric in a 100 car garage, with half of your tools...all good...could not possible get done without Johnny's excellent assistance...OK back to finding last 2 bolts holding box...JimB
#96
01-21-2017, 08:19 AM
Sat Jan 21 2017....wow...finally see the 2 bolts that apparently hold the black plastic fuse/relay box...will get to them later...this battery thing is a real character builder...
#97
01-21-2017, 10:08 AM
....Johnny...the last time I saw the 2 nuts you spoke of...I am working with a flashlight and a mirror....an hour ago I clearly saw them...now again having difficulty finding them...can you give me a frame of reference as to location...ie...relative to the black plastic box or the one nut on bracket that is easy...
#98
01-21-2017, 04:10 PM
....this is definitely a learning process...I have spent at least 2 hours trying to find the 2 nuts that secure the black plastic box that holds the fuses/relays (there is total of 3 10mm nuts. The reason it took me so long is I was looking for the 2 in the wrong area. I was looking for the nuts behind the box, they are actually in front of box at top. All 3 are now out. Still the box will not come out. The box is held in by a plastic anchor that secures the wire loom going into taillight area...Johnny...what is best method of releasing the wire anchor...JimB
#99
01-25-2017, 04:40 PM
In no way do I regret taking on this challenge r/r the main battery on my 2010 Speed....but I have a frustration level of about one (1) hour. I got my 1 hour dose today.
The new battery is in place. Next putting in the black plastic fuse/relay inclosure.
That box comes in two parts. The box and the aluminum mounting bracket. The two pieces snap together with 3 slide latches on the back and one on each side. There are two protruding bolts on rear of the aluminum bracket that are attach points for wire harness anchor points. I have tried remounting the assembly as one piece and the bracket first and then snapping in the box....both ways are fighting me....try again later...any suggestion are appreciated...JimB
The new battery is in place. Next putting in the black plastic fuse/relay inclosure.
That box comes in two parts. The box and the aluminum mounting bracket. The two pieces snap together with 3 slide latches on the back and one on each side. There are two protruding bolts on rear of the aluminum bracket that are attach points for wire harness anchor points. I have tried remounting the assembly as one piece and the bracket first and then snapping in the box....both ways are fighting me....try again later...any suggestion are appreciated...JimB
#100
01-26-2017, 01:06 PM
....to share my experience in r/r the main (left) battery. As previously said, on my 2010 Speed you must remove the fuse/relay black box to get clearance to r/r battery. Getting it back on (box) is a challenge. Just got it done (after a few trys and losing one of the 3 ten mm nuts) I tried both ways. Mounting the bracket only then adding box was no go. What did work was mounting box on alum bracket and installing. Getting the 2 10mm threaded bolts to seat in their proper place a challenge but finally got done.
Doing this the first time is trial and error. I would be much easier next time. JimB
Doing this the first time is trial and error. I would be much easier next time. JimB
#101
01-27-2017, 09:59 AM
....made bush league mistake...so focused on getting the black plastic fuse/relay box reinstalled did not notice the fuse panel will not clear with box installed...so out with box again, install panel and reinstall box...live and learn...JimB
#102
01-27-2017, 12:36 PM
....Johnny....help needed....what is right sequence for removing fuse panel, black box and aluminum mount bracket for black box...
....the new main battery is in....I mounted the alum bracket and box...great...but you can't put fuse panel in box with box already mounted....that raises another question....if the inside rim of trunk (black plastic frame running around trunk) was removed, all of this would be much easier. I am not suggesting doing it, just asking.
That moulding is what is in way of putting fuse panel in plastic box installed.
I am just making observation that without molding in way this whole job would go quicker.
You are the expert...what do you say... 10Speed JimB
....the new main battery is in....I mounted the alum bracket and box...great...but you can't put fuse panel in box with box already mounted....that raises another question....if the inside rim of trunk (black plastic frame running around trunk) was removed, all of this would be much easier. I am not suggesting doing it, just asking.
That moulding is what is in way of putting fuse panel in plastic box installed.
I am just making observation that without molding in way this whole job would go quicker.
You are the expert...what do you say... 10Speed JimB
#103
02-11-2017, 06:53 AM
Saturday Feb 11 2017 5:45am
For any out there trying to change your own Main battery (left) if this 85 year old over the hill guy can do it...you can. I was only able to get it done with Johnny's great help and encouragement....what I was always curious about was since Bentley put the Main Bat in such a difficult place to work on...how do they originally install it...
By accident I found the answer...easy for them
The car is half way up on a lift...the body of car is incomplete...a fellow is under car sticking up head and shoulders up through the area where the spare tire well (not yet installed) should be....nicely installing said battery like a piece of cake....easy for him...
JimB
For any out there trying to change your own Main battery (left) if this 85 year old over the hill guy can do it...you can. I was only able to get it done with Johnny's great help and encouragement....what I was always curious about was since Bentley put the Main Bat in such a difficult place to work on...how do they originally install it...
By accident I found the answer...easy for them
The car is half way up on a lift...the body of car is incomplete...a fellow is under car sticking up head and shoulders up through the area where the spare tire well (not yet installed) should be....nicely installing said battery like a piece of cake....easy for him...
JimB
#104
05-18-2018, 04:26 PM
This why I really like this forum. Ppl here has given me the courage and knowledge to tackle this battery replacement on my own. Not once have I read that after replacing that they or the car needs to be programmed. But the Audi dealership wants to charge me $499 to replace them both AND some type of programming. I have had them both on CTEK 7002 tenders. If in acc mode too long (10/15mins) my battery light comes on. Even running the Ross-Tech is too long and I think that’s why I get most of my error codes, because of the batteries. Plus this will give me a chance to figure out why that battery relay thing is not mounted right and won’t let me close the cover.
Last edited by TeamJones1962; 05-19-2018 at 07:23 AM.
#105
07-17-2018, 01:45 PM
Old problem new wrinkle / nyc garage doesn’t allow trickle charge
hello again all. Good to be back. Recall I’m the guy lives nyc and my public garage does not allow use of chargers. Well. I found one spot in the garage where their maintenance team had rigged an extension cable from a roof connector, I’m able to charge it overnight about every two weeks and all was wel... till.. it stopped working. I think one of the garage maintenance guys messed with the rigged extension and now, when I test the connection with a standard 115v reading light the light flashes. So I guess there is power still there but a wrongly connected wire.
Im capable but reluctant to fiddle with the live electrics.
While I can flip the ignition key and start the car using the right hand battery my primary concern is I believe using the alternator to constantly be recharging a low charge battery will eventually burn out the alternator which is an engine out job... hence the concern.
My options are
1) fiddle with building live outlet electrics- rather not
2) drive car say every 2 weeks for enough miles (how many ?) to recharge from 2 weeks with car sat idle.
3) idle engine without driving . How many hours ? What revs ?
4) disconnect one or both batteries while Car not in use this might be an option ( one issue might be if I disconnect batteries then it’s hard to access trunk so maybe need to build cable extensions from battery to ski opening on back seat so I can connect / disconnect batteries from back seat without accessing trunk . Also , if I disconnect main but keep starter battery live can I still flip ignition key to share batteries and start ?
Maybe im being too paranoid , maybe the alternator can handle say 2 or 3 weeks of Car sat idle then use alternator to charge ? But maybe it can’t and I’ll end up with engine out. ( current mileage 27k)
I’d welcome any guidance on the above
Im capable but reluctant to fiddle with the live electrics.
While I can flip the ignition key and start the car using the right hand battery my primary concern is I believe using the alternator to constantly be recharging a low charge battery will eventually burn out the alternator which is an engine out job... hence the concern.
My options are
1) fiddle with building live outlet electrics- rather not
2) drive car say every 2 weeks for enough miles (how many ?) to recharge from 2 weeks with car sat idle.
3) idle engine without driving . How many hours ? What revs ?
4) disconnect one or both batteries while Car not in use this might be an option ( one issue might be if I disconnect batteries then it’s hard to access trunk so maybe need to build cable extensions from battery to ski opening on back seat so I can connect / disconnect batteries from back seat without accessing trunk . Also , if I disconnect main but keep starter battery live can I still flip ignition key to share batteries and start ?
Maybe im being too paranoid , maybe the alternator can handle say 2 or 3 weeks of Car sat idle then use alternator to charge ? But maybe it can’t and I’ll end up with engine out. ( current mileage 27k)
I’d welcome any guidance on the above