987 Boxster - double DIN, 8" subs in doors and rear speaker kit install
#1
06-02-2012, 05:05 PM
987 Boxster - double DIN, 8" subs in doors and rear speaker kit install
I found the stereo system in my 2005 Boxster unacceptable in both sound and functionality. Luckily, it's a problem easily fixed and that's exactly what I did!
This forum along with others like 986forum have been such a great resource for me that I wanted to do a quick write-up on my own install in case the information might help someone else.
Highlights of the system include 8” shallow subwoofers in both doors, a new double DIN head unit and new speakers and amplifiers. Except for the head unit, which looks almost stock thanks to the Euro Motorspeed kit, there is no indication that anything is other than factory as long as the stereo is turned off...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323271984/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323271984/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323272114/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323272114/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
The Old:
My 2005 Boxster came equipped with the “Sound Plus” package, which is a step up from the base package but a step down from the Bose package. A lot of the information out there is inaccurate with respect to what’s included with the Sound Plus package. At least for a 2005 Boxster, here’s what’s included…
• The CDR-24 head unit
• A small ASK amplifier in the frunk using line-level inputs (ie speaker wire inputs) coming from the CDR-24 head unit
• 2 large woofers, one in each door, measuring approximately 8” in diameter including the plastic housing, fitting into 6.5” cut-outs in the door
• 2 midrange woofers, one in each door, measuring approximately 4” in diameter
• 2 tweeters in the dash, measuring about 1” each
• 1 center-channel speaker in the dash, measuring about 4” (note: I did not actually change or remove the center channel speaker so this info might be incorrect)
On paper, that seems like it should be pretty good, but like many factory systems, the equipment is fairly low quality when compared to modestly priced aftermarket equivalents. In fact, here is that complete system gutted from the car and sitting on my kitchen counter. What you can’t tell from the picture is how cheap and light these items feel in hand.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323272476/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323272476/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
If you care about audio, the system is a complete let down. I’m guessing the Bose system is better but I don’t have enough experience with it to say for certain.
The New – Specs and Cost:
I did the install myself, which probably saved me a lot of money. The end result looks and sounds AMAZING. Okay, the big mess of wires next to the amplifier doesn’t look that great but at least you never see that stuff! I estimate about a 10,000% improvement in sound quality and loudness.
• $400 (Ebay) --- Kenwood DDX719 head unit: http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entert...e_Video/DDX719 This is a 2012 model with all the usual bells and whistles including the ability to run GPS from your iPhone on to the screen.
• $168 (Ebay) --- (2) Pioneer TS-SW841D 8” shallow mount subwoofers: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...ount/TS-SW841D
• $265 (Ebay) --- PNP Porsche Boxster Rear Speaker Kit
• $160 (Ebay) --- Rockford Fosgate PBR300X2 300W 2-Channel Amplifier
• $140 (Amazon) --- Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 300W 4-Channel Amplifier
• $150 (Ebay) --- CL-41/22 CDT Audio Classic 4” 2-way component speakers
• $80 (Ebay) --- Rockford Fosgate 4 AWG Dual Amplifier Install Kit
• $300 (Al & Ed’s in Marina Del Rey) --- Euro Motorspeed Double DIN Adapter kit (this is usually available for $250 on Ebay but Loi was out of these when I was doing my install and Al & Ed’s in Marina Del Rey stocks these and shipped a kit out to me fast)
• $130 (Amazon) --- (2) Infinity Kappa 329CF 3.5” speaker sets to replace the speakers in the PNP rear speaker kit
• $140 (Amazon) --- Dynamat 9 Sheets Bulk Pack (I only used about ½ sheet so I bought way more than I needed)
• $9 (Amazon) --- Astro Pneumatic 4505 5-Piece Fastener and Molding Remover Set
• $13 (Amazon) --- Koolertron Rear View Camera
• $50 (Misc) --- Misc connectors, cables, MDF, etc.
GRAND Total: $2,005
This forum along with others like 986forum have been such a great resource for me that I wanted to do a quick write-up on my own install in case the information might help someone else.
Highlights of the system include 8” shallow subwoofers in both doors, a new double DIN head unit and new speakers and amplifiers. Except for the head unit, which looks almost stock thanks to the Euro Motorspeed kit, there is no indication that anything is other than factory as long as the stereo is turned off...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323271984/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323271984/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323272114/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323272114/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
The Old:
My 2005 Boxster came equipped with the “Sound Plus” package, which is a step up from the base package but a step down from the Bose package. A lot of the information out there is inaccurate with respect to what’s included with the Sound Plus package. At least for a 2005 Boxster, here’s what’s included…
• The CDR-24 head unit
• A small ASK amplifier in the frunk using line-level inputs (ie speaker wire inputs) coming from the CDR-24 head unit
• 2 large woofers, one in each door, measuring approximately 8” in diameter including the plastic housing, fitting into 6.5” cut-outs in the door
• 2 midrange woofers, one in each door, measuring approximately 4” in diameter
• 2 tweeters in the dash, measuring about 1” each
• 1 center-channel speaker in the dash, measuring about 4” (note: I did not actually change or remove the center channel speaker so this info might be incorrect)
On paper, that seems like it should be pretty good, but like many factory systems, the equipment is fairly low quality when compared to modestly priced aftermarket equivalents. In fact, here is that complete system gutted from the car and sitting on my kitchen counter. What you can’t tell from the picture is how cheap and light these items feel in hand.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323272476/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323272476/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
If you care about audio, the system is a complete let down. I’m guessing the Bose system is better but I don’t have enough experience with it to say for certain.
The New – Specs and Cost:
I did the install myself, which probably saved me a lot of money. The end result looks and sounds AMAZING. Okay, the big mess of wires next to the amplifier doesn’t look that great but at least you never see that stuff!
I estimate about a 10,000% improvement in sound quality and loudness.• $400 (Ebay) --- Kenwood DDX719 head unit: http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entert...e_Video/DDX719 This is a 2012 model with all the usual bells and whistles including the ability to run GPS from your iPhone on to the screen.
• $168 (Ebay) --- (2) Pioneer TS-SW841D 8” shallow mount subwoofers: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...ount/TS-SW841D
• $265 (Ebay) --- PNP Porsche Boxster Rear Speaker Kit
• $160 (Ebay) --- Rockford Fosgate PBR300X2 300W 2-Channel Amplifier
• $140 (Amazon) --- Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 300W 4-Channel Amplifier
• $150 (Ebay) --- CL-41/22 CDT Audio Classic 4” 2-way component speakers
• $80 (Ebay) --- Rockford Fosgate 4 AWG Dual Amplifier Install Kit
• $300 (Al & Ed’s in Marina Del Rey) --- Euro Motorspeed Double DIN Adapter kit (this is usually available for $250 on Ebay but Loi was out of these when I was doing my install and Al & Ed’s in Marina Del Rey stocks these and shipped a kit out to me fast)
• $130 (Amazon) --- (2) Infinity Kappa 329CF 3.5” speaker sets to replace the speakers in the PNP rear speaker kit
• $140 (Amazon) --- Dynamat 9 Sheets Bulk Pack (I only used about ½ sheet so I bought way more than I needed)
• $9 (Amazon) --- Astro Pneumatic 4505 5-Piece Fastener and Molding Remover Set
• $13 (Amazon) --- Koolertron Rear View Camera
• $50 (Misc) --- Misc connectors, cables, MDF, etc.
GRAND Total: $2,005
Last edited by erict; 06-02-2012 at 06:09 PM.
#2
06-02-2012, 05:18 PM
The INSTALL…
The install probably took me about 30 hours, which is about twice as long as I had anticipated/expected. If I were to do the exact same work in another Boxster, I could probably do it in about 12 hours now that I know what I’m doing.
Step 1: Install Rear Speaker Kit
In my opinion, rear speakers are a MUST if you want a really rich, enveloping audio experience. Having them in the Boxster is a huge win.
A guy named Harvey Peck sells a Boxster rear speaker kit on Ebay, and as others have mentioned, he’s a really nice guy. His kit is basically a compilation of the factory Porsche parts (grills, adapter plates and cables) but with upgraded speakers. It’s a nice package and the speakers seem decent, but I changed them out to Infinity Kappas hoping to get slightly better sound.
Here's a picture of his kit on my kitchen table:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323268232/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323268232/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
Here are two pictures showing his speakers (left) and their Infinity Kappa replacement (right):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323268368/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323268368/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269072/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269072/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
Here’s what the whole thing looks like installed in my car:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323272114/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323272114/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
I ran the new speakers using a “series” configuration. That means the resistance, measured in "ohms," doubles for the 2 speakers. So basically, the 2 4-ohm speakers on each side are effectively running at 8-ohms total, which is what I wanted since the amplifier would have given these guys too much juice at 4-ohms. For what it’s worth, I noticed Harvey wired his speakers in parallel. The stickers say 4-ohms, but I don’t if that refers to both together in parallel ... or if the whole thing is actually 2-ohms. The uncertainty around that last bit made me feel better about running my own set-up, especially since my amplifier isn’t 2-ohm stable. And oh yeah, if you don’t have any idea what I’m talking about with all this ohm nonsense, check out this really great explanation: http://www.termpro.com/asp/pubs.asp?ID=124
My plan was to run the speakers from an amplifier, so I didn’t use Harvey’s cabling and instead ran my own wire into the frunk. I ran the wire through a small hole I punched in a rubber grommet on the driver’s side.
The install probably took me about 30 hours, which is about twice as long as I had anticipated/expected. If I were to do the exact same work in another Boxster, I could probably do it in about 12 hours now that I know what I’m doing.
Step 1: Install Rear Speaker Kit
In my opinion, rear speakers are a MUST if you want a really rich, enveloping audio experience. Having them in the Boxster is a huge win.
A guy named Harvey Peck sells a Boxster rear speaker kit on Ebay, and as others have mentioned, he’s a really nice guy. His kit is basically a compilation of the factory Porsche parts (grills, adapter plates and cables) but with upgraded speakers. It’s a nice package and the speakers seem decent, but I changed them out to Infinity Kappas hoping to get slightly better sound.
Here's a picture of his kit on my kitchen table:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323268232/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323268232/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
Here are two pictures showing his speakers (left) and their Infinity Kappa replacement (right):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323268368/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323268368/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269072/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269072/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
Here’s what the whole thing looks like installed in my car:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323272114/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323272114/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
I ran the new speakers using a “series” configuration. That means the resistance, measured in "ohms," doubles for the 2 speakers. So basically, the 2 4-ohm speakers on each side are effectively running at 8-ohms total, which is what I wanted since the amplifier would have given these guys too much juice at 4-ohms. For what it’s worth, I noticed Harvey wired his speakers in parallel. The stickers say 4-ohms, but I don’t if that refers to both together in parallel ... or if the whole thing is actually 2-ohms. The uncertainty around that last bit made me feel better about running my own set-up, especially since my amplifier isn’t 2-ohm stable. And oh yeah, if you don’t have any idea what I’m talking about with all this ohm nonsense, check out this really great explanation: http://www.termpro.com/asp/pubs.asp?ID=124
My plan was to run the speakers from an amplifier, so I didn’t use Harvey’s cabling and instead ran my own wire into the frunk. I ran the wire through a small hole I punched in a rubber grommet on the driver’s side.
Last edited by erict; 06-02-2012 at 10:10 PM.
#3
06-02-2012, 05:19 PM
Step 2: Replace Door Speakers
I won’t go over taking apart the door as these two articles are excellent and what I used for instructions:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-complete.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...moval-diy.html
I knew that my stereo was going to need a subwoofer, somewhere, to accurately reproduce lower frequency sounds and provide a warm, rich sound. I’m not really into rap music or ‘bumping’ out lots of bass, but in my opinion, a stereo is not complete without a subwoofer.
I did a TON of research about potential subwoofer solutions. There seem to be 3 main solutions out there:
1) A passenger footwell enclosure.
2) Put something behind the seats, and move the seats a little forward.
3) The Bose package soundbar bass thingy
Although each has its pros and cons, here was my problem with each of the three options:
#3 --- Some people online seemed to indicate that the sound was just OK but not great. Also expensive.
#2 --- Seemed hacky, plus I’m not short (6ft).
#1 --- Everyone who has this says something like “doesn’t take that much room” even though all the pictures look like you lose tons of legroom.
Eventually, I stumbled upon this post which seeded the idea of putting subwoofers in my door:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...ers-door-subs/
This guy stuck 8” shallow-mount subwoofers in a 986 with reportedly excellent results. This prompted me to search for anybody who had done something similar in a 987 or 997 (since they use the same basic door). Eventually, I found this guy who put 9” Morel Elates in his Cayman doors:
http://www.planet-9.com/cayman-boxst...he-cayman.html
As soon as I saw that, I knew it was going to be possible to fit subwoofers so I ordered the shallow-mount Pioneer models. The Pioneers are impressive in construction and quite heavy due to their large magnets. Check out the difference between the Pioneer and the stock ASK woofer:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269904/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269904/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269758/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269758/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
I won’t go over taking apart the door as these two articles are excellent and what I used for instructions:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-complete.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...moval-diy.html
I knew that my stereo was going to need a subwoofer, somewhere, to accurately reproduce lower frequency sounds and provide a warm, rich sound. I’m not really into rap music or ‘bumping’ out lots of bass, but in my opinion, a stereo is not complete without a subwoofer.
I did a TON of research about potential subwoofer solutions. There seem to be 3 main solutions out there:
1) A passenger footwell enclosure.
2) Put something behind the seats, and move the seats a little forward.
3) The Bose package soundbar bass thingy
Although each has its pros and cons, here was my problem with each of the three options:
#3 --- Some people online seemed to indicate that the sound was just OK but not great. Also expensive.
#2 --- Seemed hacky, plus I’m not short (6ft).
#1 --- Everyone who has this says something like “doesn’t take that much room” even though all the pictures look like you lose tons of legroom.
Eventually, I stumbled upon this post which seeded the idea of putting subwoofers in my door:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...ers-door-subs/
This guy stuck 8” shallow-mount subwoofers in a 986 with reportedly excellent results. This prompted me to search for anybody who had done something similar in a 987 or 997 (since they use the same basic door). Eventually, I found this guy who put 9” Morel Elates in his Cayman doors:
http://www.planet-9.com/cayman-boxst...he-cayman.html
As soon as I saw that, I knew it was going to be possible to fit subwoofers so I ordered the shallow-mount Pioneer models. The Pioneers are impressive in construction and quite heavy due to their large magnets. Check out the difference between the Pioneer and the stock ASK woofer:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269904/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269904/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269758/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269758/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
#4
06-02-2012, 05:19 PM
I knew the Pioneers were close in size and I was kind of hoping I’d be able to install them without cutting any of the sheet metal, but I did have to cut a little…
The stock woofers:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269336/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269336/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
The stock woofers have a plastic enclosure which protrudes about 1.5” from the sheet metal:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269492/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269492/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
The actual opening is about 6.5”:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323270930/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323270930/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
…and there is about 2” of depth clearance from the sheet metal surface:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269638/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269638/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
To get the Pioneers fitted, I cut a little bit of the sheet metal with a jig saw and then smoothed out the cut with a dremel tool. I followed that up with some rust-inhibiting primer as the Morel Elate guy said that was something to watch out for.
I mounted the subs on some ¾” thick MDF rings I made and screwed them into the door:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323270270/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323270270/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323271278/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323271278/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
The stock woofers:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269336/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269336/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
The stock woofers have a plastic enclosure which protrudes about 1.5” from the sheet metal:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269492/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269492/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
The actual opening is about 6.5”:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323270930/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323270930/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
…and there is about 2” of depth clearance from the sheet metal surface:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269638/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323269638/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
To get the Pioneers fitted, I cut a little bit of the sheet metal with a jig saw and then smoothed out the cut with a dremel tool. I followed that up with some rust-inhibiting primer as the Morel Elate guy said that was something to watch out for.
I mounted the subs on some ¾” thick MDF rings I made and screwed them into the door:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323270270/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323270270/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323271278/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323271278/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
Last edited by erict; 06-02-2012 at 05:46 PM.
#5
06-02-2012, 05:20 PM
Next up were the midrange speakers in the doors. These are super simple to do as they are attached to the door skin itself. The CDTs popped in without issue. Here’s a picture of one next to the stock ASK speaker it replaced:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323268594/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323268594/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
WARNING:
What I didn’t know at this point of the install is that the midrange and tweeter were both being driven off the same channel coming out of the amplifier. I had assumed they were being run separately, so I plugged right into the stock wiring. If you are going to do something similar to me, you should run your own speaker wire. Somewhere in the guts of the car there is a passive crossover the factory installed for the midrange and tweeter…so my system is now using that same crossover for the midrange/tweeter instead of the CDT passive crossover which would have been better. Still sounds great, though!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323268594/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323268594/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
WARNING:
What I didn’t know at this point of the install is that the midrange and tweeter were both being driven off the same channel coming out of the amplifier. I had assumed they were being run separately, so I plugged right into the stock wiring. If you are going to do something similar to me, you should run your own speaker wire. Somewhere in the guts of the car there is a passive crossover the factory installed for the midrange and tweeter…so my system is now using that same crossover for the midrange/tweeter instead of the CDT passive crossover which would have been better. Still sounds great, though!
Last edited by erict; 06-02-2012 at 07:05 PM.
#6
06-02-2012, 05:21 PM
Step 3 – Tweeters:
The tweeters were an easy swap. The grills just kind of pop off (use a credit card or something equally thin), take out the old ones and replace with your new ones. There were some retaining clips in there I removed and the new ones are held in place by friction along with some double-sided tape for extra insurance. Here is a side-by-side of new (left) vs. old (right):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323268948/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323268948/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
Step 4: Head Unit!!!
If you’re replacing your CDR-24, don’t mess around and just order the Euro Motorspeed double din bezel kit. It looks factory, is an exact color match, and comes with great hardware and instructions (and YES you do want/need Loi’s instructions). In my opinion, it looks way better than the other major alternative (the Connects2 adapter).
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323271598/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323271598/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
When I installed the head unit, I also ran front and rear RCA cables to the frunk, and wired out the USB, Bluetooth mic, audio and rear-view backup camera.
The tweeters were an easy swap. The grills just kind of pop off (use a credit card or something equally thin), take out the old ones and replace with your new ones. There were some retaining clips in there I removed and the new ones are held in place by friction along with some double-sided tape for extra insurance. Here is a side-by-side of new (left) vs. old (right):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323268948/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323268948/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
Step 4: Head Unit!!!
If you’re replacing your CDR-24, don’t mess around and just order the Euro Motorspeed double din bezel kit. It looks factory, is an exact color match, and comes with great hardware and instructions (and YES you do want/need Loi’s instructions). In my opinion, it looks way better than the other major alternative (the Connects2 adapter).
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323271598/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323271598/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
When I installed the head unit, I also ran front and rear RCA cables to the frunk, and wired out the USB, Bluetooth mic, audio and rear-view backup camera.
#7
06-02-2012, 05:22 PM
Step 5: Amplifiers:
Despite their size, the Rockford Fosgate amplifiers are incredibly powerful and allowed me to pack a lot of punch without taking a lot of space. I installed the amplifiers in the small cubby where a CD changer would go:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323271438/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323271438/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
I removed the ASK amplifier and tapped into its amp turn-on wire and the speaker wires.
Despite their size, the Rockford Fosgate amplifiers are incredibly powerful and allowed me to pack a lot of punch without taking a lot of space. I installed the amplifiers in the small cubby where a CD changer would go:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323271438/http://www.flickr.com/photos/41995548@N05/7323271438/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/41995548@N05/, on Flickr
I removed the ASK amplifier and tapped into its amp turn-on wire and the speaker wires.
Last edited by erict; 06-02-2012 at 05:37 PM.
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#8
06-02-2012, 05:23 PM
Putting it all together...
So how does it sound? Great! Excellent clarity. Deep, rich bass. The doors DO NOT RATTLE which was something I was really worried about. The CDT speakers provide warm midtones and clear but not piercing highs. The center-channel speaker is still there but not hooked up. Don't miss it at all. Besides, 99.99% of music is recorded in stereo and not 5.1 so the center channel is just a gimmick anyways.
I can play the stereo way louder than I need to even at 70MPH with the top down. Bluetooth works great. What more can you ask for? Feel free to ask any questions!
So how does it sound? Great! Excellent clarity. Deep, rich bass. The doors DO NOT RATTLE which was something I was really worried about. The CDT speakers provide warm midtones and clear but not piercing highs. The center-channel speaker is still there but not hooked up. Don't miss it at all. Besides, 99.99% of music is recorded in stereo and not 5.1 so the center channel is just a gimmick anyways.
I can play the stereo way louder than I need to even at 70MPH with the top down. Bluetooth works great. What more can you ask for? Feel free to ask any questions!
Last edited by erict; 06-02-2012 at 10:01 PM.
#10
06-02-2012, 09:15 PM
Great write up!
I'm about to take delivery of a 987 myself and was planning on doing a head unit install in a BOSE equipped car. This was exactly what I was looking for and now I know exactly what I need to complete the install.
Thanks!
I'm about to take delivery of a 987 myself and was planning on doing a head unit install in a BOSE equipped car. This was exactly what I was looking for and now I know exactly what I need to complete the install.
Thanks!
#11
06-03-2012, 06:28 AM
Good Sound Job!
I recently did the exact same upgrade on a 986, except I used 6.5" door speakers and 5.5" on top of rear deck.
WAY MORE SOUND!!! Good spatulization with the added rear speakers. Such a HUGE difference! Would recommend upgrade to anyone….anyone who an find the time that is!
The backup camera is badly needed in this car too. Don't know how I was able to see without it! I used the same one and is the best $15 I have spent!
Enjoy that system! You worked hard to make it happen - ENJOY!
WAY MORE SOUND!!! Good spatulization with the added rear speakers. Such a HUGE difference! Would recommend upgrade to anyone….anyone who an find the time that is!
The backup camera is badly needed in this car too. Don't know how I was able to see without it! I used the same one and is the best $15 I have spent!
Enjoy that system! You worked hard to make it happen - ENJOY!
#14
08-09-2012, 07:50 AM
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#15
10-01-2012, 10:53 AM
Where do I find the "Illumination and Reverse singal cord", I can't seem to figure out what the heck the directions are referring to. On one hand the directions call it out, in the Euromotorspeed instruction manual, however at the bottom it says: **Connections for Boxster's Reverse/Illimination signal Not Supported? I have an 08 Boxster S, Manual.
Thanks,
Aaron
Thanks,
Aaron