Drive shaft coupling Issue on Cayenne
#32
Porsche extended the ignition coil warranty to 100,000 miles. It is so common that a lot of people replace all eight coils at one time and report tremendous increases in performance, power gains, increased mileage. I'd replace the spark plugs at the same time. The OEM Beru plugs are over priced; I have a full set of NGK iridium platinum plugs for me next replacement.
Since it seems your car has more than one problem, I would start with the ignition coils & plugs. But mine runs fine now. Once in a while there is a minor minute hesitiation in idle but it is still smoother than most cars.
Anyway, got to run. Hope this helps.
Since it seems your car has more than one problem, I would start with the ignition coils & plugs. But mine runs fine now. Once in a while there is a minor minute hesitiation in idle but it is still smoother than most cars.
Anyway, got to run. Hope this helps.
#33
check out Vertex Auto
2 options, replace the drive shaft or buy one of these clamping bearing supports and do it yourself. I haven't done it yet but it sounds like EVERY Cayenne drive shaft will need to be replaced somewhere around 70-100K miles. dealer costs around $1200 so this is definitely the way to go.
#34
I had similar problems with mine and yes its a verry common problem with cayenne's soo after trying a few different things and hearing about alot of horror storieswhen replacing the center bearing it self I just decided to replace the whole drive shaft and after searching for the best price with great quality I ordered mine from www.wholesaleimportparts.com. It was in stock, and it only took a few days to get it in my hands and the shipping was free! which definitley helps and finally after the job was done I can finall say that the vibration and shaking I was feeling is completely gone .
Last edited by Fixxer; 12-10-2012 at 04:37 PM.
#36
Is this a drive shaft related problem:
When driving slowly on a high gear and low revs, and starting to accelerate carefully not to kick down, there's this judder coming through. It actually feels like the big bunch of torque the engine has, is twisting some metal underneath. There's no excessive noise accompanied with the judder.
The car is a 957TT with around 115tkm. It's on an extended warranty, so the possible drive shaft problem won't hurt me much, but I'm just curious to learn what it actually is.
Thank you!
When driving slowly on a high gear and low revs, and starting to accelerate carefully not to kick down, there's this judder coming through. It actually feels like the big bunch of torque the engine has, is twisting some metal underneath. There's no excessive noise accompanied with the judder.
The car is a 957TT with around 115tkm. It's on an extended warranty, so the possible drive shaft problem won't hurt me much, but I'm just curious to learn what it actually is.
Thank you!
#37
Is this a drive shaft related problem:
When driving slowly on a high gear and low revs, and starting to accelerate carefully not to kick down, there's this judder coming through. It actually feels like the big bunch of torque the engine has, is twisting some metal underneath. There's no excessive noise accompanied with the judder.
The car is a 957TT with around 115tkm. It's on an extended warranty, so the possible drive shaft problem won't hurt me much, but I'm just curious to learn what it actually is.
Thank you!
When driving slowly on a high gear and low revs, and starting to accelerate carefully not to kick down, there's this judder coming through. It actually feels like the big bunch of torque the engine has, is twisting some metal underneath. There's no excessive noise accompanied with the judder.
The car is a 957TT with around 115tkm. It's on an extended warranty, so the possible drive shaft problem won't hurt me much, but I'm just curious to learn what it actually is.
Thank you!
I may try this on a highway tomorrow to see if I have a same problem. Mine has far less mileages though (<40k miles).
#38
The problem I'm told is the failure of the center support bearing. Of course Porsche's fix for this is to replace the ENTIRE drive shaft which includes the same poorly designed center support bearing at an approx. cost of $1600.
Vertexauto.com advertises a permanent fix to this problem at $498 with free shipping and installs in less than an hour without having to remove the drive shaft. I'm going to try this option out...will keep you posted.
Vertexauto.com advertises a permanent fix to this problem at $498 with free shipping and installs in less than an hour without having to remove the drive shaft. I'm going to try this option out...will keep you posted.
#39
#40
I am actually testing a Drive Shaft Shop driveshaft on my Turbo S. I will be posting an update in the near future.
#41
Is this a drive shaft related problem:
When driving slowly on a high gear and low revs, and starting to accelerate carefully not to kick down, there's this judder coming through. It actually feels like the big bunch of torque the engine has, is twisting some metal underneath. There's no excessive noise accompanied with the judder.
The car is a 957TT with around 115tkm. It's on an extended warranty, so the possible drive shaft problem won't hurt me much, but I'm just curious to learn what it actually is.
Thank you!
When driving slowly on a high gear and low revs, and starting to accelerate carefully not to kick down, there's this judder coming through. It actually feels like the big bunch of torque the engine has, is twisting some metal underneath. There's no excessive noise accompanied with the judder.
The car is a 957TT with around 115tkm. It's on an extended warranty, so the possible drive shaft problem won't hurt me much, but I'm just curious to learn what it actually is.
Thank you!
Mine does that too sometimes. I think its an aging valve body in the transmisiion.
#42
i having similar symptoms on a 04cs underneath the arm rest knocking keeps coming and going at low speeds mainly. it has now started vibrating the front wheels when turning and making a knocking noise. also feels like something is shaking underneath when driving on uneven road at low speeds. im going on the second drive shaft at 75k with it already replace once at 35k. could it be another expensive service?
#43
I think my cardan drive shaft was replaced at about 85k. There was a clunk and it was DX'd by the dealer. After it was replaced I was carving corners using the throttle (throttle stearing) in the winter.
I was told it might need replacing at some time in the future. I now have more than 172k and this cardan shaft seems to be holding.
I have heard some folks do not have good luck with after market parts and when the time comes (This may be a weak component on the first series Cayennes like the rear hatch struts.) I will only use a Porsche part.
I was told it might need replacing at some time in the future. I now have more than 172k and this cardan shaft seems to be holding.
I have heard some folks do not have good luck with after market parts and when the time comes (This may be a weak component on the first series Cayennes like the rear hatch struts.) I will only use a Porsche part.
#45
I thought I'd share my experience on this issue. I had a low speed vibration on my 07 CTT. It would vibrate on take off (I could hear a "squeak, squeak, squeak" and feel a vibration). I could also feel a vibration at around 40km/h.
I found that the rubber on the cardan shaft support was torn, in the area of the red arrow on the picture.
I went through the same research as the other guys in this thread, but finally decided to give the repair a shot.
I bought the cardan shaft bearing support (which includes the bearing) from a local VW parts supplier (the same as the one in the pic) for about $100 , but I've seen them advertised for $49 and a full kit for $65.
Removing the entire driveshaft and support bearing is a fairly straightforward job. However actually installing the bearing and support onto the cardan shaft is the challenge.
The flexible joint is a CV type joint, the same as you would find on the driveshafts from the diff to the wheels. The dis-assembly of the joint is, well the dis-assembly of a CV joint, so its lots of grease, ball bearings and a locking clip.
I found this on you-tube which details the most difficult part, how to disassemble the shaft.
Also as mentioned in the video, the locking clip is on the difficult side of the joint, so it it a little tricky to get to.
You will require a press to remove the old bearing and press the new bearing and support onto the shaft once it's disassembled, but I'm sure you probably have one, or know somebody who has one.
Then reassemble the joint , once again find all the ball bearings fit the locking clip,grease, seal and refit the shaft. It is recommended that all the old driveshaft bolts are discarded and replaced so these cost as much as the bearing !
I forgot to mention , before the removing of the shaft from the car, I ran a strip of masking tape over the length of the entire shaft, even over the attachments to the transmission and diff and spray painted a line over the entire shaft. Once the tape was removed, it left me with 2 lines that I could use to align the shaft and all the connecting points to ensure I didn't create any balancing issues.
I know this is not a detailed "how to" , but it's just let you know that it is possible. It just takes some time and patience and the will to get a little dirty ! It just cost the price of the bearing support (and a few hours work).
Disassembling the "CV" joint is a messy job, but that's the worst of it, everything else is quite straightforward.
I found that the rubber on the cardan shaft support was torn, in the area of the red arrow on the picture.
I went through the same research as the other guys in this thread, but finally decided to give the repair a shot.
I bought the cardan shaft bearing support (which includes the bearing) from a local VW parts supplier (the same as the one in the pic) for about $100 , but I've seen them advertised for $49 and a full kit for $65.
Removing the entire driveshaft and support bearing is a fairly straightforward job. However actually installing the bearing and support onto the cardan shaft is the challenge.
The flexible joint is a CV type joint, the same as you would find on the driveshafts from the diff to the wheels. The dis-assembly of the joint is, well the dis-assembly of a CV joint, so its lots of grease, ball bearings and a locking clip.
I found this on you-tube which details the most difficult part, how to disassemble the shaft.
Also as mentioned in the video, the locking clip is on the difficult side of the joint, so it it a little tricky to get to.
You will require a press to remove the old bearing and press the new bearing and support onto the shaft once it's disassembled, but I'm sure you probably have one, or know somebody who has one.
Then reassemble the joint , once again find all the ball bearings fit the locking clip,grease, seal and refit the shaft. It is recommended that all the old driveshaft bolts are discarded and replaced so these cost as much as the bearing !
I forgot to mention , before the removing of the shaft from the car, I ran a strip of masking tape over the length of the entire shaft, even over the attachments to the transmission and diff and spray painted a line over the entire shaft. Once the tape was removed, it left me with 2 lines that I could use to align the shaft and all the connecting points to ensure I didn't create any balancing issues.
I know this is not a detailed "how to" , but it's just let you know that it is possible. It just takes some time and patience and the will to get a little dirty ! It just cost the price of the bearing support (and a few hours work).
Disassembling the "CV" joint is a messy job, but that's the worst of it, everything else is quite straightforward.