I just installed an alpine MP-500 mono amp under spare tire, and JL Audio Stealthbox. Thanks very much to Reborn996 for wiring help!!!
The sound for such a simple upgrade is night and day. I know many of you do not like the bose ... but this is a pretty nice upgrade in sound without a total swap of all parts.

Even though the factory wire harness is not the best way to wire power .. it is the easiest way. So far I have had no problems using it.

The Stealthbox was a complete ***** to install. However it is a very nice peice of equipment. Very nicely made .. and fit is good and tight. Sound is fantastic. I was able to install it myself ... but the job is very tough and took me many many hours. Final look came out perfect. I highly recommend the upgrade.

 

I am assuming the major b1tch was removing the inner wheel well. Can you confirm how far forward and how far up you had to pull the trim pieces? Also, did you need to take out the rear seats?

I heard that you have to pull the seats and parts of the upper headliner trim.

 

You pretty much have to take off everything. The Rear driver side seat has to come out as well, but that takes about 1 minute. Once you get the hang of it .. it is pretty straight forward. All directions are here. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/12654.pdf
The inner wheel well and the panel where the easiest parts to remove. I found the upper rear trim and the rear upper corner the hardest. But that being said it can be done .. I mean if I can do it .. anyone can.
AA

 

Do you guys use the "CDC Surround" setting on or off. I think it sounds better off , but curious what others are doing.

 

I am going to try to follow in this threads footsteps and have a subwoofer enclosure glassed in the side and place a mono alpine amp where the factory sub sat.

I will post pics when I am done.

Does anyone know where I can get the same brown carpet to match the chestnut brown?

 

Going with this set up, and wiring just how you guys have it here.

they had a 15" for only $50 more but I had to restrain myself in that this is a sports car, not a hoop'd

you guys think this 10" L5 is enough? i think the 15" might be overkill.

 

Going to try and get this done tonight My setup is pretty basic, Diamond D1 12" sub and box and Kicker Punch 400 watt amp. Should sound much better!!

 

Can't get power to my amp. I know the amp works. I throw a code for the battery. Amp is only 300 watts. Wiring is correct. Any ideas?

 

Does the amp have to be digital? I am using a crappy jensen amp a buddy gave me. Figured i would us it if it works. Could this be why I am not getting power to the amp bc it's not digital?

 

1. What is a "digital" amp? All amplifiers have analog output.
2. No - probably not the problem. Recheck your wiring. If you are throwing a "code for the battery" (checked how?) something is amiss in your wiring.
3. Does the amp have a "turn-on" trigger connection (most do..) and if so - have you powered that up?

 

When I turn the car on the battery light comes on. No turn on switch on the amp. Checked the wires 5 times. No luck

 

Much too cryptic.. and I get the feeling you're not listening, or not understanding..

When you "turn the car on" - does this mean when you insert the key in the ignition, OR when you start the engine?

- If the battery light comes on when you insert the key in the ignition (before starting the engine) - that's normal. It's what the light is supposed to do. It is NOT A BATTERY LIGHT - it's a charge indicator showing if the alternator is working. The alternator won't work until the engine is rotating.

- If the battery light comes on AFTER the engine is started - you've fubar'd the alternator charge circuit. See someone competent to resolve this.

- How is the amplifier switched on? Usually they require either a turn-on signal (some voltage sent through a wire that is separate from the power wires) - OR - they are signal switched, meaning there has to be a signal on the INPUT of the amplifier to turn it on. Neither of these suggest a physical switch on the amp (although some amps may ALSO have a switch.) No amplifier is left on all the time since it would rather rapidly discharge your battery.

Since it's a piece of crap a friend gave you (your words) - I understand that documentation may be a bit sketchy or unavailable, but often Google can help track this sort of info down. What are you using for a wiring diagram?

 

No body mentioned checking the 30a fuse on the side of the drivers dash. Then check for 12v under the spare with the key and radio on. Check both power and remote turn on wires. Both good? Replace amp. Btw, my JL 500/1 mono amp IS capable of blowing the 30a factory fuse.

 

Figured out the problem. The remote wire has no power going to it. When i bought the car it had a mobridge ipod hook up. I am guessing they must have stolen the remote wire for that. Amp works when i loop the remote wire into the power. Any ideas of where i can tap off a remote wire in the rear? Both 12v outlets are always on and my cd changer doesn't work bc of the mobridge unit.

 

The power connection to your CD changer should still be active..