I picked up a pair of Hyperboost HD Diverter Valves from Pete at Stratmosphere.



Installed them last weekend. Getting off the throttle is very smooth now after hard acceleration. Getting on the throttle it seems like boost is built faster or more is available now. Overall the Turbo seems to drive smoother. This mod was done in order to replace the OEM diverter valves from Bosch that are known to leak or wear down over time and to make sure I have the best performing parts in the car prior to upgrading the boost with an aftermarket chip if I decide to.

The install isn't overly hard, but doing it for the first time without know where all the bits are etc was time consuming. Hopefully this info and these pictures can help others with the install.(this is a great time to install clear corners as well)

First take off both front wheels and wheel liners.

Then take off the front lower black air pan.

On the passenger side looking to the left of the intercooler you will see this:



You will notice there is a kink the hose from the factory. We will fix this later:



You can slide out the plastic cover around the back of the intercooler by pulling it to the right. This will give you more room to work.

Pull the vaccum line off the top the valve and then use locking vise grips or pliers to open the hose clamps. Slide each nozzel out it's hose.

(optional step here)
Take the vaccum line and follow it up to the front of the engine where it connects to a T. Remove it from the T and install the part with the memory kink it in here. In other words flip the vaccum line around so that the part with the kink is on T. OR you could go and buy an entire replacement vaccum line.

Then cut off about an inch of the hose and pick up a plastic 90* 3/16 fitting from your local auto parts store.

When it's done it will look like this:



Reverse the instructions to put this side back together.

The drivers side is hidden. You won't be looking for it in the same location as the passenger side, and you might even be able to leave on the wheel liner but I'm not sure.

After removing the lower tray you can look up and find the boost hose. Hiding behind it will be the other valve:



This is what you are looking for:



Remove that black boost hose and this is what you will see:



This will give you room, but not much. It is very tight in there, but it IS possible to get it out AND reuse the OEM hose clamps.

You will reuse the stock vaccum hose with no modifications.

Here is the new valve installed:





Again reverse install everything. Let the car warm up and take it for a test drive. Listen for any boost leaks and watch your boost gauge as you go up through the rpms. Just like stock it should peak at 0.6bar and then start to fall above 5500-6000rpms. Boost should come on at 2000rpms.

Here is the website for the Hyperboost HX valve:
http://www.stratmosphere.com/hyperboost.htm

Anyone thinking about a chip should consider this, and anyone who has a chip should DO IT!

 

Wow, awesome!!!! Are those the best DV's??? or are they the only option to OEM for the CT???

 

I am guessing a Forge or Bailey valve could fit, but I don't know first hand. I am pretty sure the diameters of the hoses are a standard size.

I had a Bailey valve and then a Forge valve in my Audi TT which had a chip and larger turbo. Ultimately I went with Stratmosphere in the end as I felt they were the best and my boost gauge proved it.

YMMV.

 

What's with the anodizing on those?

edit: nevermind... just checked the website.

 

I'm not trying to be argumentative but what do you mean exactly. My understanding is that a better DV will just improve throttle response slightly; it should have no bearing on boost pressure or "power".

 

I was referring to my boost gauge in my Audi TT that had a chip and upgraded turbo.

The boost gauge proved it by showing me that all the boost was there.

With the other valves, they were still leaking at high boost(20+psi)

 

all I can say is that driver's side dv is a ***** to get out. In fact I had to stop and reassemble the car. I also changed the air filters to K&N and put new wheels on 7 hours labor including hand car wash and wax. My 20's are now on so basically the project is complete except for replacing the drivers side DV. I need some kind of long nosed vice grips to get at the top squeeze clamp...was able to remove the lower one. I just don't lknow how mechanics work on these. Most everything takes extended effort.
So off to home depot to hunt done some needle nose vie grips and I will try again next weekend. I found that wrestling with the wheel well liners much fun too. I'm Beat. I did drive it and with the filters and the one new DV ...the car builds boost quicker and decelerates much smoother when I get off boost...bttom line, the car is more lively with the throttle...

 

Jenner:
What tool did you use to get at the top squeeze clamp on the driver side DV ?

 

Great write-up Jenner. Appreciate the pics and the effort to share.

 

We used a pair of long needle nosed pliers. Similar to this:


and needle nose locking vice grips like this(but longer):

 

Thanks. I ordered this tool to make this and future hose jobs easier in tight spaces...
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/brandspl...6-ap-9409.html

 

Just finally got the driver's side new DV in. What a pain. I do not recommend this as a home DYI. Bring it to the dealer. I would not be surprised if they charged 4 hours labor. I tried to get it done w/o removing the wheel well liner on the driver side to no avail. Took 2 hours to do that side with the proper hose clamp tool..

Well worth it. Throttle is much more responsive and boost comes on sooner with less rpms. Just glad it's over...

 

is the Cayenne Turbo mod friendly like the 911?

 

No...everything is difficult to get to...very little room to work around the engine. A 911 is a breeze in comparison. It all depends on which mods you do....

 

Jenner:

On the driver side dv replace, did you notice a little oil in the intercooler hose when you removed it to gain access to the DV ?
Just wondering if that's normal...