You asked: Well, I ran one this past weekend. It's basically a ***** of a job. It was for a backup camera (sounds familiar?)..

I ran the wire out of the grommet on the right side of the hatch - visible when you remove the plastic cover on that side of the hatch that covers the existing wire.

To prevent water travelling and going down the wire into the hatch, I fed it out at the bottom of the opening for the grommet, OUTSIDE the grommet - then replaced the grommet and fitted it back as best as can be done. Since the wire is at the bottom of the opening when the hatch is closed, and I put a loop on the wire so it goes below the opening then back up 1/2" to the opening, no water should travel back into the hatch. Not perfect - but the other choice, drilling a hole and using my grommet for it to go through wasn't appealing.

I then tie-wrapped it to the existing wire and led it up the side of the hatch. It would not fit through the hook shaped duct on the hatch hinge, apparently that is shaped around the one wire that goes through it. So.. I notched the plastic side piece so the wire could exit it right where the hinge duct jointed to the side plastic duct and tie-wrapped it to the hinge. There is room next to the hinge for the wire, it won't hit opening or closing.

Next challenge is getting it inside. Not such an easy job. You must pull down the trim where the compartment light is (center) and then remove the trim along the dog-leg in the C pillar behind the side rear window. Both are a royal PITA - Porsche used 6 clips for every spot where 1 was needed. I counted something like 16 clip points on the dogleg alone. If you don't have the trim removal kit from Suncoast - get it. I didn't, and it was not a fun job.

There is a stiff rubber membrane that is above the hinge assembly.. it is all that's between the inside of the rear hatch area and a seperate outside (inside) area where the hinge mounts. I poked a hole in the membrane toward the front end of it for the wire, and then resealed around it with some self-adhesive rubber sheet that I have. After several downpours - no sign of any water penetration. Without removing the entire headliner it's not obvious where the factory wires come through, but I suspect it's through the same membrane. The wire then runs down behind the dog-leg piece of plastic into the right side compartment.

I mounted the camera transmitter in the right side compartment. Reverse light positive is the black/blue wire - easily acessable there. Added a ground to a threaded hole in the sheet metal and the camera/transmitter were alive when in reverse.

I bought a Peak kit "wireless" - camera mounts on the license plate (I'm not crazy about that - but with a black frame on the plate it's not awful..) I mounted the receiver/display in the sunglass cubby. That is nice 'cause it's hidden. On the packaging it claims "Installs in only minutes" - that's true if you consider about 700 minutes "only minutes".. The total install took about 12 hours.

I know you have the UK display interface so you'll want to go a different route, but that's the basics. I would guess it took me about 8 hours to run the wiring in the back. A lot of that figuring out how the damn trim comes out.

Oh - the fuzzy trim on the tailgate - is held with three rows of three fasteners. The metal expanding ones that like to rip out of the plastic they're mounted in (epoxy is your friend!) That's where the removal kit would have been really useful IF one could see where the damn things are (you can't) and use the kit to pry them out. Even after getting the three rows free - the top was still captured under the hard plastic trim, and I didn't try to remove it. I could bend the fuzzy rug trim up enough for access for what I needed to do.

If you're "down the shore" sometime - I could show you how I did it and give you a clue where the fasteners are.. I'm in the Spring Lake area - midway between Asbury Park and Point Pleasant. I can't PM yet since I don't have 15 posts..

 

Deil - if only you posted this sooner! I did the job last Saturday and did almost the exact same thing. I pulled the trim off the side, snaked it through the grommet. ***** of a job.
I also bought a wireless kit and then abandoned it when I could not find and efing power that was consistent in the hatch. I could only find power when i had the lights on. As I wanted to be able to have my camera on when I was driving, I opted to pull my own power from else where. In my case it was right from the front under the dash. I will try to upload the pictures now and update this post.

BTW - thanks much for taking the time to explain it as I am sure you will help many others.

 

Pretty funny two of us in NJ practicing cursing at our Cayennes and the maniacs that designed the thing.. on the same day..

I took a few pics - but not a complete DIY since I don't think I want to encourage anyone to do this job - they'd probably come after me.. Will upload a few..Not a problem, but I'm NOT encouraging anyone to do this job, unless you're into blood loss (sheet metal edges) and are very skilled at cursing..

<-- the camera

<-- the grommet and wire

<-- the wire heading upward

<-- the notch in the duct cover

<-- the end result (and there is a long story with running the power line to the display..)

The image actually is a lot clearer then it looks here - the camera isn't quite able to capture it.

 

The display wiring story - that was Sunday.. (or was it Monday? The pain became a blur..)

I had figured I could grab power off the overhead console someplace. Well - - first problem (after reading up on how to drop the console) - the plug going into the sunroof switch would NOT release. I think someone glued it in there or I'm really dumb missing the locking-latch. The service manual shows a plug midway in the wire - it's not there.. So - I was left poking around with the thing hanging there.

There is switched power to the switch assembly for the Homelink setup - but it would require making a very tight solder connection to a circuit board to grab the power source, and I wasn't real comfortable doing that with the thing hanging there (if I could have gotten it out of the truck, I could have done this on the bench.. but it wasn't coming out..) So.. since I had plenty of wire coming from the display, I figured run it around the windshield and down to the right side fuseblock.

This was easier to do - after about an hour of real frustration trying to push it behind the trim with a plastic body-filler "knife" (think plastic spatula sort of thing).. it wasn't happening. Finally in frustration, I grabbed the headliner by the windshield and pulled down on it.. it came down 1/2 inch EASILY (hey - Hans missed putting 36 dozen fasteners!) and I was able to tuck the wire up in the void. It then had to come down the A pillar. Again - total frustration trying to get it behind the trim near the windshield, when I realized - if I pulled the trim back a bit at the top joint, I could drop the wire behind it, and then pull the trim back around the door gasket - the wire went right in. Piece'a'cake if I was doing it again. First time - the learning experience - is always a *****.

That got it to the fusebox.

I test probed some empty fuse positions (nice that Porsche put the feed to the empty positions) and found a switched one (I think #5 - but don't swear to it..) I attached my wire to the blade of a fuse, and then put it into position 5 (the one listed in the owners manual for "reverse camera") with the other blade going to the feed connection in the fusebox. 5A fused switched circuit - coming right up. I unbolted a big-*** (tech-term) bolt in the fusebox and wedged a ground lug connection behind the washer and tightened it up, and now the display had switched hidden power going to it. The display goes into a standby mode when it doesn't see a signal from the transmitter. Takes about 1 second after going into reverse, and it wakes up and displays the image.

And it all worked.

The system I bought - the power for the camera travelled in the same wire as the camera signal - and just plugged into the transmitter (mounted now in the CD/AMP compartment) - and the transmitter grabbed it's power from the reverse light wire. Wiring wasn't hard at all.. just running the damn things was.

Ah well - it works I think..



Bigger crappy image - it really does look pretty decent, my digital camera and the display obviously have a pixelation problem going on. Go figure.. I can see 1 foot behind the bumper at 18" off the ground. That should work for most parallel parking situations. The top of the cone in that photo is about 18" high and 18" behind the bumper.

 

BIG ROFL ! I just updated my OP with complete pics on the bottom of the post. If you check it, you will laugh as you can see I did the exact same thing.

BTW - your only about 60 min from me. I actually made it to past asbury in record time (35 min) on Sunday with my average speed (on my trip OD) being ehh . . . I wont say.

I went down NJ motorsports park for a day of karting. The place was a fricken blast and if you have not been, you should go. While I was there there was also an air show which was like dinner and a movie. Check this vids I shot:

http://s412.photobucket.com/albums/pp201/oldmeatwad/NJ%20Motorsports%20Park/?action=view&current=ff3efbf1.mp4

http://s412.photobucket.com/albums/pp201/oldmeatwad/NJ%20Motorsports%20Park/?action=view&current=20200073.mp4

 

Hi,

I got a question about your iphone set up. What did you use? To be able to see your iphone screen (such as internet, facebook...etc.) instead of only able to view videos.

 

The iphone is unlocked and I installed a program from cydia called tvout. Have the same thing on my ipad and it works great.

 

After reading your post I am confused. Would Pandora output to the screen, and the ipod functions without having an unlocked phone?

 

someone in SoCal needs to learn how to do this and offer this. I've got 2 Cayennes that I need this done to... if anyone out there is talented enough to perform this, please PM me.

Just the Iphone/ipod interface, not the backup camera

Thanks!

 

I just did mine and I am located in SoCal, but I never want to install another one.

 

No - The only thing an iphone will output without being unlocked and using 3rd party software is Videos.

If you unlock it and install TVout, it will display pretty much everything.

 

please you 2, do not wreck your pigs........it would be a huge waste of man hours.

Now 5-7 years from now, will they be your weekend haulers and camping suvs or still the dd's........just dont know how you 2 look at these in your evolution of ownership.

Are they your hands down favorites or is this typical?

Or will you buy a 958 in 2-3 years and do the same?

 

Hi Roxboxxx

Thanks for sharing. Your posts have inspired me to replace my broken display and to add the multimedia kit.

I have now installed both units but have some issues with getting the AV input unit to work. Can you provide a more detailed description of how you operate the AV system. If I push the AV button on the PCM nothing happens. How do you get access to the AV input once the box is connected and turned on?

Also I am wondering what RF modulator I need to buy to get my iPhone connected to the system.

Your help would be greatly appreciated.

Mads
(Copenhagen, Denmark)


[QUOTE=roxboxxx;3199503]Not like you all have not seen Video in on a Cayennes PCM, however, I did something a bit different with this install + I only spent $90 on the video module. If you go the same route, you will also need some way to inject the audio stream. I chose to use an inline RF modulator which works great. NOTE - THIS IS NOT A TUTORIAL as I am leaving a lot out. Just sharing the steps I went through to achieve the results.

Primary components I Used:

> Progressiveice.com multi-media interface (bought on Ebay from UK vendor). http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160390107447&ssPageNam e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

> Video Modulator: Bought on Amazon for $40

> Reverse camera (had one from a previous install)

> Iphone Composite video cable (had one already)

> Iphone (of course) with TVOutTuner app (outputs the entire iphone UI).

What I got:

> 2 Video Inputs
> 1 Backup camera input
> 1 AV output (that I connected to the FM modulator).

A way of displaying all my iphone stuff on my PCM

What I need:

The only issue I have now is I need to figure out how to run the wire for the reverse camera. I was able to snake wire neatly without removing any trim ALL the way to the back hatch. I figured I would run the wire up the pillar trim and then snake it into the back hatch at the hinge. Well, NOPE! if I did this I would have to run the wire over or through the hatch seal. I am not messing with that and get a leaky hatch.
IF ANYONE knows how to get a wire into the back hatch, please share!!!

What I did different:

There is ZERO room behind the PCM and as I was lucky enough not to have some module in my PCM (I dont know, maybe the phone module??), I had extra room under the circuit board. This meant I could stick the AV breakout box IN THE PCM!!! So I did. Def not for the faint of heart.

Additionally, I wired a 3.0 amp USB cigarette adapter under the right kick plate. This lets me charge my iPhone any time its plugged into unit.

 

Hello, (sorry for my poor english, I'm french)
We plan (I and other members from forum-cayenne.com) to install this interface to use an OEM camera.
I have received the interface this week, and I have read your instructive tutorial and the comments and questions you had about it from other members.

I still have some questions about some points, maybe you will be able to answer in order to help us for the installation :

- There are wires that are not mentioned on the wiring manual (2 black wires), do you now if it is mandatory to connect them ? and where to connect them ? (see image below)
- Is it mandatory to connect the green wire ? It seems to be usefull in some countries where driving while watching video is forbidden, so the emergency brake signal is sent to inform the interface that the car is parked and allows the display ?
- I read that the blue wire has to be connected to the rear light that turns on when the back gear is activated, so the interface receives a +12v signal and automatically displays the video on the PCM screen without having to press the AV Button, did you try this connection to ensure that it works ?
- Last question : you mentioned that you used a 4 wires cable (as a standard phone cable) running from the interface module to the camera. Did you encounter problems with picture quality or interference with other equipments because the cable in not shielded ? Do you think we can intend to use the CD changer wiring that is already in place instead of running a cable (because I don't have the CD changer but the cable is already there).


I know, I have many questions, I hope that I can help too in the future on other topics... You can take a look to our forum that is full of tutorials (but in french...)

Thank you if you can help, bye

 

Hey roxboxxx,

I went on the path to install the similar video input device according to your post and pictures. Everything was put together and turn on. There is red led to show that the box (which I inserted below the PCM like you) was turn on.

However, I did not managed to get any video on my PCM screen. I tried pressing every single button on the PCM but did not managed to get the video input screen. Am I missing something? The rest of the PCM works normal.

Appreciate any help. Thamks