Which durametric cable are you able to perform this with is it the enthusiast or professional or any of them

thanks in advance

 

Shouldn't matter, it should work with any of them.

 

Please take this a general advice for anyone, not as mean-spirited; please use the "Search this Thread" function since many of these last questions have already been covered in this thread.

If used, you will find this similar post and answer on Post#88:

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post4027632

 

i got as far a post 81 before i decided to ask the question as i did not think it would be covered in the remainder of the thread just goes to show thanks for the reply and help !

 

Hi mate are you based northwest Uk by any chance ?

 

No, Northwest US as in near Seattle. Sorry.

 

Question. So if you lower it the 25mm and it accepts it.... And you go back in.... Will it show 190 for the fronts again or the 215 you changed it too?

I believe It accepted it the first time but now I can't get it to lower at all. I got 3 of the 4 to Accept a +10 but never could finalize it.

Thoughts?

 

If you don't make it through all 4 channels and save it you will probably end up with workshop errors. I had that happen and had to start at the very beginning and reset it to baseline on all 4 and save that. Then start over adding the 25 for all 4 and save the whole thing again.

 

judubbya~

it went all the way through the first time. It saved all changes and I hit done.

A week went by and i wanted to lower it more so I got into the system, yet it says the factory numbers? (190 /237). Did it not SAVE the changes i did before or is that supposed to be normal now?

 

Hello my fellow lowering members. wondering if someone can help me, from banging my head against the wall. Last year around this time I successfully lowered my 04 CTT using the method as described here (+25 mm 215/262) with my Durametric. Fast forward to this past January, I decided to raise the CTT back to normal level due to the snow pounding we were getting. I thought everything went smooth just like it did with the initial lowering process, everything learned and saved, but now I'm having issues attempting lower it back to the 215/262. After the Durametric cable hook up procedure to notebook, with the car running and program started. This is what it is doing:
Following the step by step procedure as outlined in the pdf. enter level control - adaptation. Click on read, (soon as I click the read button I get "Workshop Faulty, etc" and have the suspension error icon displayed in the display on the dash). The car will lower and raise back up during the reading phase like normal. I get a value for Channel 1 (FL of 190 mm). I go ahead and input 215 like before, but this time I get not permissible. If I try to input it again or a lesser value I get an error! So, I moved onto channel 2 (RF 190 mm), and inputted 215, learned and accepted. On to channel 3 (237 mm), input the +25 so 262 and get the same not permissible as it showed in Channel 1. So I leave it and go to Channel 4 (237 mm) and enter +25= 262, Learned and accepted.
I move onto channel 5 and it reads "conditions not correct" Smh, I toggle back down the channels to channel #1. Channel 1 now reads 413 in the value?!? wth! And no matter what value you input, its implausible, and if you don't toggle to a different channel before re-entering another value, then error. So I put in 215 again. I go back to channel 3, it now reads 1143. Huh?! What! So I do 262 "not permitted" and go on to channel 5. Still says conditions are not correct. I try to use the ( 0 ) to go back to factory settings. Hit done, and close out the program. I now have the "workshop suspension failure" every time I start the car with the icon. During this time, if I attempt to use the rocker switch to change level it says "Pressure Accumulator Charging". I can be driving down the road or hours later it will display the same message.
Some how, after countless times of turning the car off, unplugging cable and notebook restarts, I was able to get channel's 2-3-4 to accept the normal values (190/237), but not channel 1. I went to channel 5, it still reads conditions are not correct, but when I hit the (0) this time, the "workshop" error went away and everything is working again. After taking a drive, noticed the car was riding like a low rider on hydraulics, cruising while slammed. Looking at it, it appears to be dropped again (215/262). In the normal setting on comfort its not bad, but once you hit express way speeds, unacceptable as my 8 year old constantly reminds me, lol.
I cant remember now, when you first hit read in adaptation does it always show "workshop" message? Or is something going on with mine? And, any ideas on getting this level back to ground zero (factory setting)? I read thru all 11 pages of this thread and looked all over in the forum, but I didn't see anything that referred quite to this dilemma. Sorry for the book and I'm sure I probably left some tid-bit of pertinent info out.

 

Lots of stuff going on here....if I'm understanding your comments correctly, then this is what i would suggest.

The Pressure accumulator simply means its over-heated from your lowering attemps and needs a 20 min break....at least.

Make sure you 'clear all errors' before each lowering or raising attempt.

I think your larger problem is that it sounds like you really don't know what your 'rolling number' is for each wheel ? What the durametric says when you fire it up is often just a default number and not the true rolling number. Keeping in mind that you will likely always get an error if your attempting to input a number that is 'plus or minus 30 (could be 40) from your actual rolling number. You will need to 'find' what numbers the durametric will accept on all 4 wheels and WRITE THOSE DOWN, those are your rolling numbers ! Once those numbers are found, then you can raise/lower based on your new rolling numbers.

Example......
Lets assume you go thru the process of finding numbers on all 4 corners (this process is discusses on this thread a page or 2 back as i recall) that the durametric accepts......lets say those numbers are 205, 205, 265, 265.

Those are your numbers you must work from.....if you want to drop it a bit....use 210,210,270,270.....those are now your noew rolling numbers ! Keep them with your durametric !

 

Thanks Shannon123. It wont let me clear the code when it happens. It says non/correct - not calibrated, or something like that. The way it rides and looks, I know its lowered. It rides like it did when I would move it out the garage after washing it or whatever while in the loading level position (stock, before Durametric). I think I will most likely have to do what you mentioned, was just looking for the easier way out, lol. Thanks for the response, much appreciated.

 

TWalk,

Member shannon123 gave you good advice. This is a known bug covered in this thread and there is no easy workaround. With a couple of hours of patience, you can get this sorted like the many before you.

 

How are you guys all getting 190/237?

My 2008 GTS stock numbers are showing 170/217 and if I try to raise those numbers I always get not permitted message. I've tried to reset to default settings and save that then try again but no luck. I can however lower the numbers and save it successfully and the car will actually raise up even higher!

I rented this tool and have a week to figure this out...

PLEASE HELP!

 

The Cayenne GTS is lowered by default from the factory by about 15-20mm since it is supposed to handle better with the lowered center of gravity. Most GTS' did not have the air suspension option spec'd, so I am assuming this is why your numbers started lower than the rest from the factory.

Since your GTS is most likely already lowered w/ air suspension (my working theory), you will have less room to lower more. I suggest that instead of adding 25-30mm to those numbers, you try to add 10 mm instead and go from there.

Of course it will! If you read my original PDF, then you will understand that lowering the number will do the inverse and tell the suspension to raise. Should be obvious.