How hard is it to replace the ac compressor and dryer on this car as DIY?

So I have been given the news, my hi side ac service port was leaking and over time reduced the charge to make the ac stop working. Removed cap, noticed it leaking slowly (audible). Went to the shop and had the valve replaced, but during inspection, they said that they noticed the clutch is burnet out on the compressor due to the low charge. Now, I am faced with repairs for this.

My choices are:
- indie shop (who says about 700 for ac comp, 80 for dryer, and about 600 for work including flush)
- dealer - not even thinking about it
- DIY - remove ac compressor, replace dryer, and then have indie shop flush and recharge system - is this a viable option?

When went to indie shop, they replaced service valve, pulled vacuum and stated there are no more leaks. then put in 134A into lines to appropriate amount. Then said the compressor failed to engage and mechanics told me they can see the melted clutch parts. Then they pulled the fluid out stating the low side service port was leaking slowly, but since ac is bad, it would need dryer replacement too anyways. So they have my fluid that I already paid for, but all I need is to have AC compressor replaced along with the dryer.

My question is though, once I replace compressor, would I be better off to give them the dryer to replace? or should I just replace dryer and then drive to them to service (flush, recharge)? What is in your opinion the way to go here?

 

Depends on how long you plan to keep it. For a long time? Then pay to have your indie repair it correctly and warranty the parts/work. Not so long? Then kludge a repair to make it operational until you sell it.

 

Can anyone comment on what it takes to remove the ac compressor? Where did you start from (where on the car), what had to be removed to get access, tips on actual removal/reinsertion, etc. Thanks.


About above comments:
I agree, but only if I have never done any work on a car before, and only know how to top up windshield washer fluid on it.
Taking compressor out is not brain surgery, and what I am asking is if people out there already had a chance to take them out, so maybe they can comment on their experience.

Kludge is not something that I do.
I am quite familiar with auto repair and I would see someone doing a kludge job if they have not touched auto repair before.

I have 3 choices here:

LET INDIE DO ALL THE WORK:
They provide their parts, do all of the install, and I pay them.
Still will have to wait for parts as they do not have in stock (no biggie).
They quoted me $850 for parts alone, plus $850 for the labor.
Warranty: 1 year for parts, 90 days for labor.
TOTAL COST: $1700


OR

PARTIAL DIY
I buy my own parts
- ac compressor with clutch - denso
- drier
- orings for lines
- serpentine belt (replacing while I am in that area)
total parts cost: $450 + $50 for serpentine belt (separate cost from ac parts.
Then I do install of AC compressor, and drier, replacing orings on lines as I do the connections (1 bolt per line - 2 for compressor, 2 for drier).
Then, indie does:
- troubleshoot entire system to make sure all parts are functional and ok before recharge
- pull vacuum to make sure there are no leaks, thus making sure my install was good.
- add oil/refrigerant to lines after that, making sure the proper amount was there, right? Thus completing the install the right way.
Their quote for what they would do is $200
Warranty: 1 year for parts (from seller of them) + 90 day labor for what work they did.
TOTAL COST: $650

OR

DIY ALL THE WAY
I buy the parts (assume same cost of $450)
I do the install (same as above)
I do the flush and troubleshoot
I do the evacuation + recharge (not hard, have the gauges and evacuator pump, know the quantities, no biggie).
Warranty: 1 year from seller of parts + no warranty on labor
Risk: Do not have the proper equipment to flush the system out...that is why I am going to let the indie shop do this.
TOTAL COST: $450 + refrigerant cost (~$80)-4 zone ac unit

In all for a few hours of work on your car, one can save easily 1000 bucks or so....so unless you do not care about $1000, then self install of parts becomes pretty good idea.


So once again, can anyone comment on what it takes to remove the ac compressor? Where did you start from (where on the car), what had to be removed to get access, tips on actual removal/reinsertion, etc. Thanks.

 

Ciaka,

I would DIY as much as you can. I just looked over the instructions to replace the A/C compressor and dryer on the 4.5 V8 and it looks very straight forward. The A/C compressor is mounted at the very bottom of the engine on the driver side.

To paraphrase, the instructions say to remove driver side tire and fender lining. Remove serpentine belt. Disconnect electrical connections and refrigerant lines. Unbolt 3 bolts that are facing straight down to the ground, then the compressor will be free. It also mentions that the power steering line may be in the way and just to pull it to the front.

That is essentially it for the compressor. Looks easy-pesie in the tech article.

 

Great to hear. Thanks R'Man. I looked over service instructions too and they looked too simple for me, that is why I started questioning the ease factor. On some cars you have to have two elbows on your arm to get to the darn things.
Have you managed to see anything about the drier replacement? Still trying to find out where it is, but assume it has to be on the driver side of the car, somewhere in vicinity of where the lines are...guessing here.
After I have it all installed, will drive straight to the indie shop so they can flush, pd and refill, saving me a bunch of money in the process.
Best of all, I can get away from the TX heat...forecast is continues in low to mid 100s, dipping all the way down to 98 by end of weekend and into next Monday or so.


This could be a candidate for another DIY article for this site, and another DIY for drier replacement, I think someone already created one for serpentine belt replacement.

 

I haven't had to replace mine, but judging from the location, I doubt it will require more than just twisting/convincing it over the PS lines as mentioned.


Yep. Look for article numbered "87 55 19" - they refer to the AC dryer as a "desiccator" (have to love the translations sometimes). It actually looks like it is on the right side on the engine bay. All you have to remove is the right air filter, then remove it from its housing. You will need a special slide hammer tool and snap ring pliers. Doesn't look to bad either, after you identify it.


Never fun to realize that your AC doesn't work in the middle of summer. I asked my wife if her AC was blowing cold last week and her response was "why wouldn't it, if it worked last year" If you could only count on that.


Yep. Agreed. I am sure the community would appreciate it.

 

DIY Ciaka! Think of all the goodies that $1k can go for!

 

so I am doing this today. The replacement ac compressor is new denso unit for 05 CTT per sales person I was discussing this with.
AC compressor not hard to remove at all (no need to take off tire either or lining in wheel well).

However, when I got to hood up the power connector (I assume clutch engage connection), noticed that the new compressor connector has 2 wires, with black going to ac compressor chassis, and red going into the connector, whereas the old compressor connector had 2 wires run straight into the connector, where it would mate with the the connector on the car side. The new connector prong is much thinner and there seems to be a plastic edge inside the connector, preventing me from making complete contact.


SOOOOO....I am pissed.
CAN THIS BE MADE TO WORK AS LONG AS I GET GOOD CONNECTION? My thoughts are take the connector from old compressor, change onto the new ac compressor, making sure red goes into red on car side and black goes into black connector on car side (taking the black off the ac compressor chassis). Essentially changing connection to be just like the old compressor was. Is that adequate? Who has the info to answer this?

I NEED HELP HERE. car apart and I really think return/reorder is the last option I am thinking of at this time.

THANKS.

 

Ciaka,

Please provide part numbers at the minimum to make sure you got the right part. Most likely not by the sound of it. Pictures would also be helpful.

 

FWIW, Denso's main product page does not say that is has any compressors compatible with your year/make/model. Porsche's part number is "95812601400" for a 05CTT AC compressor. What do you have?

 

The store part number is 60-01801 NC. Another number i see is 477280-6091. Another is 471-1580.
New. Denso oem.
Cross reffed it and appears for 2005 cayenne 4.5L engine.
AC lines fit OK. Mount holes are perfect fit.
The connector is one last thing.

My thinking is I will solder on the old connector to the new AC compressor, taking ground (black wire) from AC compressor chassis, and solder it to the connector so that car side connection with 2 wires will fit perfect to the newly soldered on connection (red to red and black to black).
Anyone has info that should stop me from doing this?
If these activate the clutch then it will work on same voltage since intended for this car. Proper voltage through car side connection, into compressor, activating clutch. Same when deactivating, voltage removed.
Need someone to chime in on theory and how it meets reality.

Thanks, will get you beer next time you're in Austin.

 

Heres a pic

 

this one seems to translate to 3.2L compressor from what I see.
The people at the store confirm for the year/model/engine ac compressor.
Still, any word on replacing the connector?

 

confirmed with store and from online resources, get this compressor for my make/model/engine size. 05CTT 4.5L turbo.
They are identical in mold, all lines fit just fine, the only diff is the connector on new one has black line grounded at ac compressor chassis, and red line goes into conector, whereas on old one, black and red lines on compressor go into a connector. Connector on new one is slightly different (same shape). Can plug it in, but the red prong inside connector looks thinner and there is no black prong (since gounded at chassis of ac compressor).

SO my plan: remove connector from old ac compressor, fit to new compressor so that connection to car is identical.
Assuming compressor is for the car, do you see this a logical step? Researched and since this connection activates/deactivates compressor, then it should all fit fine.

Lemme know if you can. Putting things back together. That drive belt it a biach to do (putting in a new one anyway).

 

I just checked again and the part number given is the right Porsche part number for a 05 CTT. It has been superceded a few times. The original part number was 94812601101. It then was replaced by 95512601101. And then the latest Porsche part number is 95812601400