Porsche Porsche Cayenne S 2008 - BC Coilover / Swift Springs
#16
09-11-2013, 08:59 PM
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: TimBuckToo
Posts: 30
Rep Power: 12 
front shock 8 threads to the lowest setting
Also the 4 upper mount nuts 13mm to the chassi suck and are a long hard turn with 3/8 rachet 2 entensions and a universal knuckle to access the angle...dont loose these hand turn the off the last threads so you dont drop them ...if so use the flashlight app on your phone to find them
Also the 4 upper mount nuts 13mm to the chassi suck and are a long hard turn with 3/8 rachet 2 entensions and a universal knuckle to access the angle...dont loose these hand turn the off the last threads so you dont drop them ...if so use the flashlight app on your phone to find them
Last edited by CayenneS2008; 09-11-2013 at 09:40 PM.
#17
09-11-2013, 09:16 PM
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: TimBuckToo
Posts: 30
Rep Power: 12
Ramps great for rear end access for adjustments and initial jack heights to get jack stands in place. notice I have them reversed in order to allow more jacking with the OEM Porsche jack with 2 layers of 2x10 wood blocks to raise the jack up to the increased height. Always have other stands and back up jack PLEASE!!!
If you dont have all the Jacks Rent them !
Call a Buddy and loan a Jack
NOBODY WANTS YOU TO BE UNSAFE UNDER A 5500LB VEHICLE!!!
ALSO IDENTIFY A SOLID CONCRETE BASE ADD WOOD TO SPREAD THE WEIGHT ON THE GROUND. USE WHEEL CHOCKS, FOOT BRAKE, CAR IN PARK...ETC...BE SAFE
WARNING BE PREPARED TO LOSE A FEW POUNDS OF WEIGHT WORKING HARD...LOL!
If you dont have all the Jacks Rent them !
Call a Buddy and loan a Jack
NOBODY WANTS YOU TO BE UNSAFE UNDER A 5500LB VEHICLE!!!
ALSO IDENTIFY A SOLID CONCRETE BASE ADD WOOD TO SPREAD THE WEIGHT ON THE GROUND. USE WHEEL CHOCKS, FOOT BRAKE, CAR IN PARK...ETC...BE SAFEWARNING BE PREPARED TO LOSE A FEW POUNDS OF WEIGHT WORKING HARD...LOL!
Last edited by CayenneS2008; 09-11-2013 at 09:18 PM.
#18
09-12-2013, 10:10 AM
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: TimBuckToo
Posts: 30
Rep Power: 12
Before...
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After
Here is the end look...I can go lower & did but the rear end looks like its dragging on the ground, here I have enough clearance underneath for bump stops etc and not too much air under the chassi at high speed. When its too low it does not look right. Also at -.05 Negative Camber I am just 'out' of OEM spec range max of -0.35
Front
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After
Here is the end look...I can go lower & did but the rear end looks like its dragging on the ground, here I have enough clearance underneath for bump stops etc and not too much air under the chassi at high speed. When its too low it does not look right. Also at -.05 Negative Camber I am just 'out' of OEM spec range max of -0.35
Front
Last edited by CayenneS2008; 09-12-2013 at 10:22 AM.
#20
09-12-2013, 05:08 PM
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: TimBuckToo
Posts: 30
Rep Power: 12
I Agree, I was contenplating a bigger floor jack...the little Sears floor jack was a strong item, and the jack stands speak for safety
However its now a done job, along with Cat Bypass install ...(NB: before the CS was lowered, it is good advise to do your exhaust work first for workable clearance underneath)
My next improvement is the Air intake and ECU Chip...then and I am done...after all its a SUV and any more modifications than this is turning silly, if i need more... I just grab the M3 keys instead
I will say it get good and negative looks from 'other' SUV owners who try and contend...only to hear the sound of V8 Porsche with the lowered stance and soon back off...
However its now a done job, along with Cat Bypass install ...(NB: before the CS was lowered, it is good advise to do your exhaust work first for workable clearance underneath)
My next improvement is the Air intake and ECU Chip...then and I am done...after all its a SUV and any more modifications than this is turning silly, if i need more... I just grab the M3 keys instead
I will say it get good and negative looks from 'other' SUV owners who try and contend...only to hear the sound of V8 Porsche with the lowered stance and soon back off...
Last edited by CayenneS2008; 09-13-2013 at 07:28 AM.
#21
09-15-2013, 06:39 PM
Great write up! I did this job along with the cat bypass about a month ago on my 2009 CS. I was really surprised at ease of installation. It took some time and the right tools, but overall, not too bad. I found flex, ratcheting box wrenches to be absolutely necessary for the cat bypass and very helpful on the rear coil-overs.
I played with the settings quite a bit. I finally landed 10f and 12r. A little bouncy, but it's my wife's car and she didn't like the firmer settings. I have yet to track down a faint suspension squeaking coming from the front passenger side at low speeds. I can hear it in the car but not outside the car. Same thing with a rattle in the dash that appeared due to the cat bypass.
Did you purchase the camber plates?
I played with the settings quite a bit. I finally landed 10f and 12r. A little bouncy, but it's my wife's car and she didn't like the firmer settings. I have yet to track down a faint suspension squeaking coming from the front passenger side at low speeds. I can hear it in the car but not outside the car. Same thing with a rattle in the dash that appeared due to the cat bypass.
Did you purchase the camber plates?
#22
09-15-2013, 07:17 PM
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: TimBuckToo
Posts: 30
Rep Power: 12
No I did not purchase the camber plates, I just wanted a medium to lowish ride height and was happy looking at the Porsche GTS stance
I 'guessed' without spec's that the suspension geometry of the GTS is a lowered Cayenne S to the max negative camber possible without tire wear. Well, I ended up at -0.5 deg Negative on all 4 wheels, I hope the tires hold up
...I feel -0.5 deg negative camber is not too bad
So I went for a 'not too low' set up to avoid problems
I will say initally I forgot to install the front metal bushings that sit between the top of the front shock mounting plate and chassis (they were included in the BC package, however I did not know what they were for).
This lead to a lower ride height, so I matched the back also. My overall opinion on a low low ride height is not the best way to go. I feel I get the same handling and feel with it up 1 inch from there and its still easy to get into the drivers seat without a 'step up'.
(P.S With the Cat bypass I removed the rear tranny mount bar and it was very easy...so if your looking under there getting confused...go for that first, then rear pipe clamps)
I 'guessed' without spec's that the suspension geometry of the GTS is a lowered Cayenne S to the max negative camber possible without tire wear. Well, I ended up at -0.5 deg Negative on all 4 wheels, I hope the tires hold up
...I feel -0.5 deg negative camber is not too bad So I went for a 'not too low' set up to avoid problems
I will say initally I forgot to install the front metal bushings that sit between the top of the front shock mounting plate and chassis (they were included in the BC package, however I did not know what they were for).
This lead to a lower ride height, so I matched the back also. My overall opinion on a low low ride height is not the best way to go. I feel I get the same handling and feel with it up 1 inch from there and its still easy to get into the drivers seat without a 'step up'.
(P.S With the Cat bypass I removed the rear tranny mount bar and it was very easy...so if your looking under there getting confused...go for that first, then rear pipe clamps)
#25
09-15-2013, 07:35 PM
I initially forgot the front bushings as well. I ended up using a dab of RTV to hold them in place. I also ended up raising the rear about 6 full rotations and the front 3 from the initial photo above.
I think the tranny mount bar removal is a must for anyone doing the bypass installation without a lift. Other than reaching the back of the 3rd bolt it was pretty straight forward. The rattle in the dash is driving me nuts.
I wanted to let the springs settle a little bit before I brought it in for an alignment. Unfortunately, after about a month of driving, the shoulder wear on the rear tires as a result of the negative camber is severe enough that I will probably end up replacing both rear tires when it goes in for an alignment this week.
I'm crossing my fingers in hope that I will not need the camber plates.
I'll let you know how it turns out.
I think the tranny mount bar removal is a must for anyone doing the bypass installation without a lift. Other than reaching the back of the 3rd bolt it was pretty straight forward. The rattle in the dash is driving me nuts.
I wanted to let the springs settle a little bit before I brought it in for an alignment. Unfortunately, after about a month of driving, the shoulder wear on the rear tires as a result of the negative camber is severe enough that I will probably end up replacing both rear tires when it goes in for an alignment this week.
I'm crossing my fingers in hope that I will not need the camber plates.
I'll let you know how it turns out.
#26
09-15-2013, 08:03 PM
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: TimBuckToo
Posts: 30
Rep Power: 12
Looks like you need to raise the rear shock 2-3 turns, it looks a tad lower than the front. or down 1 front up 2-3 rear.
When I am in the vehicle I look at the passenger door panel as it meets the window for rake level...I should have put a builders level on it to be exact, but eyeballing it is good. You sure get a feel for minor changes in ride height to a 1/4 inch
Some say the rear should be higher than the front to give the vehicle some rake, as well as allow the additional weight of passengers in the rear...not to mention towing.
I measured the rear on mine 1/2 higher than the front. measuring the wheel arch to the top of the rim was more exact that the wheel arch to tire.
This 1/2 more in the rear actually gave the same negative camber result front and rear after alignment. So I guess this is a good
P.S Nice Wheels!... can you tell me about them?
When I am in the vehicle I look at the passenger door panel as it meets the window for rake level...I should have put a builders level on it to be exact, but eyeballing it is good. You sure get a feel for minor changes in ride height to a 1/4 inch
Some say the rear should be higher than the front to give the vehicle some rake, as well as allow the additional weight of passengers in the rear...not to mention towing.
I measured the rear on mine 1/2 higher than the front. measuring the wheel arch to the top of the rim was more exact that the wheel arch to tire.
This 1/2 more in the rear actually gave the same negative camber result front and rear after alignment. So I guess this is a good
P.S Nice Wheels!... can you tell me about them?
Last edited by CayenneS2008; 09-15-2013 at 10:22 PM.
#27
09-30-2013, 07:08 AM
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: TimBuckToo
Posts: 30
Rep Power: 12
I have been driving for 1k miles and noticed the front springs settle down some more, probably another 1/4 lower. Perhaps due to braking compressing the springs.
The CS has a lot of rake now and I feel its not balanced and suspension movement ends up transferring weight to the front.
Now I have raised the front to the same level as the back...thinking it may settle a tad more...
The result is a nicer ride - 'More Balanced' - the CS weight is transferring from front to back nicely. Like the front compresses then the back over bumps then finally the equal height lets the final smaller suspension movement settle out on each end.
My ride height measurements are 7 1/2 inches top of rim to wheel arch on all four corners. This is the best setting so far
I can say the ride firmness has of my dampening 8f/10r feels like its softened a hair...perhaps the springs are not so firm after breaking in. I am not sure why it just feels a hair softer.
Also I did notice my Exhaust sounds a lot quieter (Cat Bypass) since I raised the front up to level with the rear (3 turns of the shock body up). I can't figure out why other than more space for the noise to exit between the road and the chassi.
Or more wind under the chassi. So I guess the lower the chassi is to the ground the more exhaust noise is in the cab. Perhaps the noise bounces off the pavement and back up to the cab....or is more trapped in a smaller space.
The CS handles well drives flat with little to no body roll, is completely 'grounded' . In turns, it turns like my M3, I can swing it into corners and it turns 'very well'...I am just scared to push it past some tire chirping as over steering 5500lbs I feel I need a large car park and lots of room to figure out if its set up to over steer or sledge.
Highway driving is a breeze...the CS is so stable and straight in my lane the mental concentration to stop the wallowing pig has GONE!!!
The CS ride is so straight I never break a line...far from it...I could reach the glove box and back and look up and I am still driving DEAD STRAIGHT...feels like a go kart...amazing.
This BC/Swift is worth every dollar ($1500)...its a 'Must Have' option!!!
Air Intake / Chip next...
The CS has a lot of rake now and I feel its not balanced and suspension movement ends up transferring weight to the front.
Now I have raised the front to the same level as the back...thinking it may settle a tad more...
The result is a nicer ride - 'More Balanced' - the CS weight is transferring from front to back nicely. Like the front compresses then the back over bumps then finally the equal height lets the final smaller suspension movement settle out on each end.
My ride height measurements are 7 1/2 inches top of rim to wheel arch on all four corners. This is the best setting so far
I can say the ride firmness has of my dampening 8f/10r feels like its softened a hair...perhaps the springs are not so firm after breaking in. I am not sure why it just feels a hair softer.
Also I did notice my Exhaust sounds a lot quieter (Cat Bypass) since I raised the front up to level with the rear (3 turns of the shock body up). I can't figure out why other than more space for the noise to exit between the road and the chassi.
Or more wind under the chassi. So I guess the lower the chassi is to the ground the more exhaust noise is in the cab. Perhaps the noise bounces off the pavement and back up to the cab....or is more trapped in a smaller space.
The CS handles well drives flat with little to no body roll, is completely 'grounded' . In turns, it turns like my M3, I can swing it into corners and it turns 'very well'...I am just scared to push it past some tire chirping as over steering 5500lbs I feel I need a large car park and lots of room to figure out if its set up to over steer or sledge.
Highway driving is a breeze...the CS is so stable and straight in my lane the mental concentration to stop the wallowing pig has GONE!!!
The CS ride is so straight I never break a line...far from it...I could reach the glove box and back and look up and I am still driving DEAD STRAIGHT...feels like a go kart...amazing.
This BC/Swift is worth every dollar ($1500)...its a 'Must Have' option!!!
Air Intake / Chip next...
#30
12-27-2014, 09:37 AM
Just wanted to thank you for taking the time to post your install pics and findings.
I found it very helpful during my install. You sure were right about needing to get back in and remove the bolts again to make adjustments. I naively thought I may get it right first time -
In the end it was well worth the effort.
My before and after thread is here:
http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-c...s-of-pics.html
Porsche Cayenne S 2008 - BC Coilover Install with Swift Springs
I have decided to post a new thread for the BC's with Swift Springs and all the other threads are without Swifts, and don't want UN-related info, settings, tech talk, reports to be construed as the same...
ok
Just Installed the Bc Coilovers with Swift springs
After much tinkering and adjusting I have the install down with many photo's , tips n tricks that I will post
The swift springs sure soak up the bumps, yet are firm, they are a fantastic upgrade!
Reading up on all the stock black BC spring settings, the firmest setting I found from another CS drivers setting was: 9 front, 11 back (from full stiff), this was my first dampening setting with the swift springs (the swift springs are same rates as the stock BC springs).
Many people have been setting dampening WAY to soft and getting bounce especially on rebound ...like 11f/13r and end up spending days under the vehicle getting it right
For every 1 click stiffer on BC Coilovers - Rebound is reduced THREE times!. The Tech guys at BC Racing are always avail for questions
Well 9/11 settings with swifts were lovely...like a Bentley, hitting big bumps was amazing, the ride was good with 1-2 people and a tad of bounce with 3-4 people, their was more bounce in the rear, and a tad front...I was thinking of going 9/10, but my next setting was...
Next 8 front, 10 rear FIRMER! 'but better' , more control in turns firm ride but well inside harsh. the CS feels awesome on the highway fast, hard turns, and getting on it. I feel I can push the CS harder and its very grounded
My lowered settings were front... (length of strut)
11 1/4 inches from top of strut, to top of lower adjustment ring - with 8 threads of shock body between lower and upper adjustment rings. I have approx 6 mill pre-load front, 5 mill rear. Pre-load and ride height settings were finally adjusted after two weeks 100 miles driving.
Rear: 52 threads between the two adjustment rings I used a drawing pencil with a fine lead tip to count the threads, or a fine point instrument will work well
These adjustments are 'Bang On' for a lowered ride but not too low, or the *** will look getto...I also took in mind that too low will void any possible alignment away from too negative camber. also rear is approx 1/2 inch higher than the front for some rake/passengers and a reasonable tow hitch height
The springs did settle front appeared a bit, however the rear settled more for some reason, so I checked the pre-load in case the springs had gotten shorter. I was very fussy with strut height measuring the threads, as well as overall length, as pre-load can +/- half a thread
I will post the pic's and steps I took soon ...I did this whole job in my driveway with the stock porsche jack and a floor jack, stands with some plastic ramps
I have decided to post a new thread for the BC's with Swift Springs and all the other threads are without Swifts, and don't want UN-related info, settings, tech talk, reports to be construed as the same...
ok
Just Installed the Bc Coilovers with Swift springs
After much tinkering and adjusting I have the install down with many photo's , tips n tricks that I will post
The swift springs sure soak up the bumps, yet are firm, they are a fantastic upgrade!
Reading up on all the stock black BC spring settings, the firmest setting I found from another CS drivers setting was: 9 front, 11 back (from full stiff), this was my first dampening setting with the swift springs (the swift springs are same rates as the stock BC springs).
Many people have been setting dampening WAY to soft and getting bounce especially on rebound ...like 11f/13r and end up spending days under the vehicle getting it right
For every 1 click stiffer on BC Coilovers - Rebound is reduced THREE times!. The Tech guys at BC Racing are always avail for questions
Well 9/11 settings with swifts were lovely...like a Bentley, hitting big bumps was amazing, the ride was good with 1-2 people and a tad of bounce with 3-4 people, their was more bounce in the rear, and a tad front...I was thinking of going 9/10, but my next setting was...
Next 8 front, 10 rear FIRMER! 'but better' , more control in turns firm ride but well inside harsh. the CS feels awesome on the highway fast, hard turns, and getting on it. I feel I can push the CS harder and its very grounded
My lowered settings were front... (length of strut)
11 1/4 inches from top of strut, to top of lower adjustment ring - with 8 threads of shock body between lower and upper adjustment rings. I have approx 6 mill pre-load front, 5 mill rear. Pre-load and ride height settings were finally adjusted after two weeks 100 miles driving.
Rear: 52 threads between the two adjustment rings I used a drawing pencil with a fine lead tip to count the threads, or a fine point instrument will work well
These adjustments are 'Bang On' for a lowered ride but not too low, or the *** will look getto...I also took in mind that too low will void any possible alignment away from too negative camber. also rear is approx 1/2 inch higher than the front for some rake/passengers and a reasonable tow hitch height
The springs did settle front appeared a bit, however the rear settled more for some reason, so I checked the pre-load in case the springs had gotten shorter. I was very fussy with strut height measuring the threads, as well as overall length, as pre-load can +/- half a thread
I will post the pic's and steps I took soon ...I did this whole job in my driveway with the stock porsche jack and a floor jack, stands with some plastic ramps
Last edited by EMC2; 12-27-2014 at 10:09 AM.