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Introduction and looking at buying a CTT

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Old 08-22-2014, 10:53 PM
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Introduction and looking at buying a CTT

Hey there everyone, I'm James. Recently started looking at another vehicle to keep everyone in the family driving, I've never owned or (until this weekend) driven a P vehicle.

So, a little about me:
Prior military working on F14's and F18's, came to Boeing in '98 on the F22, did construction/real estate for a while, currently working at Boeing on the 787. Been a car guy since I got my first bite from the speed bug back in 1997 in the form of a 91 MR2 Turbo and it's been downhill since then.

Currently in our stable:
1991 BMW M5 - D'Sylva chip, stereo, full repaint
1998 BMW 740iL - fully rebuilt engine, ported and polished, cams, sleeved block for future TT setup, 6speed swap, lower on Bilstein shocks and H&R Stage II springs.
2001 BMW X5 4.4 - software tune, lowered on BC Racing coilovers, iForged staggered 20's (275F/315R), Eaton M112 supercharger setup pushing 6-8psi in the works.
2001 Suzuki TL1000R - changed the teeth gearing to -1 in the front and +2 in the rear, upgraded chain, custom painted fairings, custom projector headlight, undertail, 40 shot of NOS (have yet to install it)
2002 Ford F150 Harley Davidson - fully rebuilt engine, ported and polished, cams, upgraded from the stock Eaton 1.6l M112 to a larger Kenne Bell 2.3lowzilla, all supporting fuel mods, frame stiffening system, Dynamat throughout (had to do headers once I passed the 500HP mark, but I still want to be able to DD the truck), lowered w/ shackles in the rear.
2008 Scion tC (GF's car that would be turned into the kids car, then she'll drive the X5) - aftermarket wheels, CAI

Now, as for the Cayenne's I'm looking at. I'm still on the fence, each has it's pros and cons, and I'm still researching (just read a thread where I should be getting these both for a few thousand less) but I figured I'd get the intro outta the way and do my own thread searching before I go asking questions that have already been asked.

2005 w/ 106k - seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/4592428205.html
seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/4592428205.html[/COLOR]
Pros:
- Aftermarket intake (have yet to determine the brand, I just saw red silicone hosing under the engine dressing)
- Aftermarket exhaust (looks similar to the Cargraphic system after watching some of Fabspeeds comparison videos, but the dressing shield between the mufflers looks different) I've yet to see if it has the 2nd cats deleted or the rest of the exhaust system
- I'm going to call software companies to see if they can tell me if it has their software based on the VIN. It does great at holding gears during deceleration, so that's what's making me wonder if this is normal or something that happens after getting tuned. It admittedly feels slightly laggy (I'm spoiled by the INSTANT torque of my SC'd truck), but once it comes on, it's hard not to let off the throttle
- 106k miles
- Parking sensors
- 20" wheels
- Aftermarket LED taillights
- Aux headphone jack and iPod connections in the glovebox

From how it feels compared to my X5, plenty of power. I wish the turbo's and BOV we're more audible, but that's something I look into later if I get it.

Cons:
- Salvage title from a rear end hit. I don't mind the salvage so long as it was repaired and still functions structurally in the case of a rear impact while I'm owning it. The owner showed me pics of when he bought it at the auctions, and it didn't seem that bad. Bumper was knocked off, the mufflers were broken where they're welded together (he redid the welds, it doesn't leak). There is still a bend in the plastic bumper on the RH side by the tailgate, then there is a crease on the RH bottom corner of the tailgate itself.
- Tailgate won't open via the button, it has to be done w/ the key
- No sunroof
- He claims that only recently it gave him the amplifier failed warning so I couldn't listen to the stereo
- No service records since it's an auction car. He's done an oil change and changed the drivers side front 02 to get rid of a CEL
- Slight vibration at highway + speeds
- Decent clunk when I put it into reverse on his sloped driveway with the nose pointing upwards
- Drivers side red button for the belt buckle release is broken. It still functions, but the plastic portion is cracked

2004 w/ 120k - http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/4632721127.html

Pros:
- 22" wheels
- Front brakes redone recently, I'm not sure about the rear
- Body is clean minus a small dimple on the hood and a couple marks on the bumper around the hitch
- Sunroof
- History for the past 2 or so years from them owning it and servicing it at either a Porsche indy or a friend who worked at a local shop.
- I doubt I'd use them, but has the roof rack crossbars
- Bose system (not sure if that's standard and I didn't pay attention to it on the previous listing since the stereo wouldn't turn on)

Cons:
- Hood shock needs replacement
- Needs valve cover gaskets (started smoking from the drivers side after a short 5-10 min around the neighborhood he lives in. I was never able to get over 30MPH (I was coming back from a vacation when I happen to be in the area and looked at it, kids in the car) so I don't know how the wheels/suspension will do on the highway
- Door speakers rattle (might need to be retightened throughout)
- No parking sensors (EDIT - apparently it does, they've been disconnected by the previous owner)
- At slow speeds of around 5MPH, I could let on and off the gas slightly and hear a clunking sound. I'm wondering if this is a driveline support bearing/guibo donut issue

That's all I've got off the top of my head. I'd like some opinions if you've got them, links of threads if something sounds immediately familiar, otherwise I'll continue reading up like I have been the past few weeks. Yesterday is the first time I've driven one of these, so the only issues I knew of really was coolant pipes and transmission valve bodies, so now I've got some new things to look into before I decide.
 

Last edited by m5james; 08-25-2014 at 07:08 PM.
  #2  
Old 08-22-2014, 11:53 PM
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The first one has been removed already. The second one doesn't look too bad. This post has some things I've learned in the short 5 months of ownership. I'm not too far away (in Kitsap area) so if you need a second set of eyes on something let me know.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post4169139

For a couple $K more this one looks like a much better deal than the second one you posted...
seattle.craigslist.org/skc/cto/4609017210.html
 

Last edited by jdubbya; 08-22-2014 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 08-23-2014, 12:28 PM
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Check coolant pipes make sure they have been replaced also see if the owner has a good service history available. Anything to give you that warm fuzzy. other than that just make sure everything is straight and all the buttons work.
 
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Old 08-24-2014, 08:18 PM
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Welcome! Also ask if the driveshaft bushing bearing has recently been replaced since these options are all over 100K on to odo.
 
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Old 08-25-2014, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jdubbya
The first one has been removed already. The second one doesn't look too bad. This post has some things I've learned in the short 5 months of ownership. I'm not too far away (in Kitsap area) so if you need a second set of eyes on something let me know.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post4169139

For a couple $K more this one looks like a much better deal than the second one you posted...
seattle.craigslist.org/skc/cto/4609017210.html
The first one is still available, he just hasn't refreshed the listing. I was going to take it this weekend and give it a buyers inspection, but he had plans to go camping, so it didn't pan out.

I've updated my original post with the listing for the second one. I'm just slightly concerned w/ it since he claims 2yrs of service records, yet I drive it and the engine is smoking from the valve cover gaskets leaking, noises, etc. Minus the minor body damage, the first one seems to be in much better shape mechanically, plus the added performance mods (something I'd have to pay for myself down the road) is what's making it pique my interest because it'd save me $3k roughly.

I've seen that one, but for the price difference, the 1st one still seems to be the sweater deal considering it's a year newer, close in the mileage, $4k less and has roughyl $3k in mods. I've been looking at eBay and other listings, but something keeps drawing me to the '05 w/ the performance mods...his loss, my gain kind of situation....but I'm still keeping my eyes open.
 
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Old 08-25-2014, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by gh0stman
Check coolant pipes make sure they have been replaced also see if the owner has a good service history available. Anything to give you that warm fuzzy. other than that just make sure everything is straight and all the buttons work.
I found a thread on here showing how to inspect the coolant pipes w/o removing the intake, I just need to decide on which vehicle is the better overall deal, then start inspecting. I'm fully capable of repairing everything short of the rebuilding the engine or trans, but at this point the '05 (no records, salvage title aside) appears to be in the best shape mechanically (who spends $3k in mods on an engine that needs maintenance is my thoughts) and has the lowest mileage between the two.
 
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Old 08-25-2014, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Renaissance.Man
Welcome! Also ask if the driveshaft bushing bearing has recently been replaced since these options are all over 100K on to odo.
I was curious about it w/ both vehicles as I drove them, but at the time I didn't know how they failed on a Porsche vs a BMW (which I'm familiar with) to determine what's the tell tale signs. Each vehicle made it's own odd trans noise...the '04 had an audible clicking when I let on and off the gas at low speed while driving it through a neighborhood under 10MPH, but the '05 sounded perfect until I had put the vehicle into reverse on his angled driveway and heard quite the thunk going into reverse. I'm hoping I'll have time this weekend to inspect the '05 further.
 
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Old 08-25-2014, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by m5james
I was curious about it w/ both vehicles as I drove them, but at the time I didn't know how they failed on a Porsche vs a BMW (which I'm familiar with) to determine what's the tell tale signs.
The driveshafts themselves stay mechanically sound. However, the center bushing support is a thin rubber diaphragm that loses integrity and eventually fails over time.

The symptoms will be quite obvious with a thumping noise under acceleration from under the center of the floor.
 
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Old 08-26-2014, 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by m5james
I found a thread on here showing how to inspect the coolant pipes w/o removing the intake, I just need to decide on which vehicle is the better overall deal, then start inspecting. I'm fully capable of repairing everything short of the rebuilding the engine or trans, but at this point the '05 (no records, salvage title aside) appears to be in the best shape mechanically (who spends $3k in mods on an engine that needs maintenance is my thoughts) and has the lowest mileage between the two.
The best way I found to inspect the coolant pipe is to borrow a borescope and fish it between the engine and intake manifold and look for metal or plastic. A local parts house might have a rent-a-tool program and you could do it in the parking lot or take it to where ever you needed to to inspect it. Also like RenMan was talking about inspect the cardan shaft bearing. Mine went out a few months after I bought mine. Granted it was covered under my warranty its still a PITA to set up a time to get it done.

When it goes it will sound like a little person with a sledge hammer swinging it around. Mine would only do it under a load but I didnt let it run to far with the problem.
 

Last edited by gh0stman; 08-26-2014 at 03:07 AM. Reason: More to say
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Old 08-26-2014, 03:59 PM
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I've got a 42" mounted in my garage, connected to a laptop (great for reading PDF's and forum write-ups when working) and a nice 20' long eBay boroscope that connects to my laptop - http://www.ebay.com/itm/7m-Handheld-..._Tools&vxp=mtr

I just need to be able to take one of them home to get the inspection. I tried this weekend w/ the '05, but he suddenly said he was going camping, stopped replying and then contacted me the following Monday, even after I explained to him that I work upwards of 140+hrs each pay period and that I just happen to have that weekend off. He's got an M5 and Tundra, so the Cayenne just sat...you'd think a guy with a salvage title would be excited someone was interested.
 
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Old 08-27-2014, 04:07 AM
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The first sucker I came by offering reasonable money would be driving it home. LOL. I like the TV set up you got going on.
 
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Old 08-28-2014, 10:55 PM
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I've gotten the seller to agree to let me take th vehicle home for the weekend so that I can do a buyers inspection. I'm not huge on the idea of knowing it has rear damage and no sunroof, but at the same time, I've priced out the mods I've seen, which outweigh the losses.

Thanks, it was cheap and easy to do, not to mention it's been very handy to have when working on things.
 
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Old 08-29-2014, 01:14 PM
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Ive seen the second one around Redmond and Bellevue a few times recently. Its been for sale for a long time, Ive seen its ad on craigslist since at least May.


Hopefully everything checks out on the 1st one, good luck!
 
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Old 08-29-2014, 04:36 PM
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Yeah, and I think he's starting to get the idea that he's asking too much since he's offered to drop $1k off the price after I mentioned the things I found in the short 10 min I drove it. He's already bought the Suburban, so now it's just taking space.

The first one I've done some research into the insurance auctions and they tend to average $3k-$6k, he's rewelded the exhaust together where it snapped at the middle supports, then simply re-attached the bumper and threw some wheels on it. Pending my inspection this weekend, the first one is still the better deal to me considering it's newer, 15k lower miles, some decently priced performance mods (they were on it when he bought it, so he can't justify charging mange extra for them) and the engine compartment seems to be better shape. The rear end pic is one the owner sent me and has only claimed the rear damage, but a Google search of the VIN found me the picture of the front directly from the auction site. I haven't told him I've found that picture, so we'll see how he dances when I bring it and any issues up after I give it a buyer's inspection.

Running a VIN search on both, the first one has no options, the second has more, but after reading these forums and past for sale/sold threads, both these guys are roughly $2k over-priced IMHO even though both have aftermarket wheels that they're trying to recoup the cost of.
 
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Last edited by m5james; 08-29-2014 at 04:56 PM.
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Old 08-29-2014, 05:57 PM
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Reading over the factory options of each one, is there a website/thread showing the difference between a base 04 vs base 05 seeing there's a minor $400 difference. I remember them both having parking sensors, roof rack tracks and other similar things, yet the '05 looks stripped based on that website.
 

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