Bypass install fitment issues suggestions?
#16
09-27-2014, 01:22 PM
This thread sucks as I just ordered a set of primary and secondary car deletes from Hank. I really can't have these kind of issues as the truck is in Costa Rica and shipping is expensive and time consuming. I really hope he sends me a set that clear the cross member. Is the issue due to the 3" diameter or just the way the pipes are bent?
#17
09-27-2014, 01:41 PM
Yeah so I checked the search and found a total of 3 post and only 1 has an HHR made fitment issue(this 1). Maybe you can post those links I can't seem to find on HHR made cat delete fitment issues. Thanks
#18
09-27-2014, 01:44 PM
I think I am going to have to remove the pipe and make a huge indentation where it is rubbing with a hammer. This is the only way I think I can fix the problem for the time being. I would put back the stock pipes but they where so rusted I pretty much destroyed them. This is complete BS having to deal with this.
I am assuming Hank got some sh*ty jigs from Leistung. Hopefully he steps up and gets out pipes that fit to his customers ASAP! I dont have weeks to wait on this as my wife is about to kill me!
Any suggestion on the rear section leaking?
I am assuming Hank got some sh*ty jigs from Leistung. Hopefully he steps up and gets out pipes that fit to his customers ASAP! I dont have weeks to wait on this as my wife is about to kill me!
Any suggestion on the rear section leaking?
For the exhaust leak at the slip fit connection with the clamp, you can try some ultra copper RTV sealant. I used it on slip fit connections on a set of headers on a Corvette and it never leaked. I bought some for my bypass install but ended up not using it.
#19
09-28-2014, 07:40 PM
Removed my Hanksville bypass pipes today to eliminate the horrendous rattling noise the driver side pipe was making as it banged into the transmission crossmember. Since I had a couple of frozen nuts snap the studs on the OE secondary cats when I originally removed them, I had to remove all of the studs from the secondary cats before I could reinstall them. Basically all it required was heating the flanges up around the studs and then knocking them out with a hammer.
For now, it's great to have a no more exhaust pipe rattles since this is the second weekend in a row I've done an R&R of bypass pipes (had to remove the broken Leistungs last weekend, and the ill-fitting Hanksvilles today). Am waiting on the replacement Hanksville driver's side pipe that's supposed to fit for now.
For now, it's great to have a no more exhaust pipe rattles since this is the second weekend in a row I've done an R&R of bypass pipes (had to remove the broken Leistungs last weekend, and the ill-fitting Hanksvilles today). Am waiting on the replacement Hanksville driver's side pipe that's supposed to fit for now.
Last edited by spooltime; 09-29-2014 at 07:50 AM.
#20
09-28-2014, 10:40 PM
I am overall very happy with B&B. They actually forgot to send me the hardware that goes along with the pipes, but they took care of it quickly and professionally when I brought it to their attention. The other problem is that I didn't realize they wouldn't come with a provision for mating to the stock 2.5" rear section pipes... unless there is something for that in the hardware package they're sending me...
As I said I wrote Hank an email to let him know my concerns about the fitment and this was his response.
Hi, Brian. Thanks for the message. Just yesterday I heard about a second fitment issue on our secondaries. One 955 Turbo that I had previously heard about, and now a 957 Turbo, both rattling on the crossmember. All of our pipes are made on the same jigs, so if the issue is with two out of dozens of pipes shipped since June, then I think the issue might be with fabrication inconsistencies. However, if there are more instances that I don't know about then the issue might be with the jigs.
We obtained the jigs from LMS and have wanted an opportunity to install parts on an actual car, to verify the accuracy of the jigs.
Clearance on your pipes is even more critical with the 3" tube.
I will have a car in the shop next week beginning on Oct. 6; that will allow me to check fitment on all of our parts and also to perform R&D on our 3" midpipe. We have already fabricated your secondary but I will plan to wait t o send it until I can get that car in next week, to verify fitment.
Quality and customer service are my priorities. During the week of Oct. 6 I am diagnosing and making new pipes for the customers who advised me of their fitment issues, and will make sure that yours fit correctly before they ship. I'll keep you posted.
If you are on the forums, please feel free to share this message and please ask if anyone else has issues. I am available via phone or email ( info@hanksvillehotrods.com ) and welcome feedback and pictures to help me to fix the issues. I'll also add this to my blog on www.hhrproducts.com. Thanks.
Hank
Hanksville Hot Rods, inc.
303.470.1850
At the end of the day this is the type of vendor I want to do Buissness with.
Hi, Brian. Thanks for the message. Just yesterday I heard about a second fitment issue on our secondaries. One 955 Turbo that I had previously heard about, and now a 957 Turbo, both rattling on the crossmember. All of our pipes are made on the same jigs, so if the issue is with two out of dozens of pipes shipped since June, then I think the issue might be with fabrication inconsistencies. However, if there are more instances that I don't know about then the issue might be with the jigs.
We obtained the jigs from LMS and have wanted an opportunity to install parts on an actual car, to verify the accuracy of the jigs.
Clearance on your pipes is even more critical with the 3" tube.
I will have a car in the shop next week beginning on Oct. 6; that will allow me to check fitment on all of our parts and also to perform R&D on our 3" midpipe. We have already fabricated your secondary but I will plan to wait t o send it until I can get that car in next week, to verify fitment.
Quality and customer service are my priorities. During the week of Oct. 6 I am diagnosing and making new pipes for the customers who advised me of their fitment issues, and will make sure that yours fit correctly before they ship. I'll keep you posted.
If you are on the forums, please feel free to share this message and please ask if anyone else has issues. I am available via phone or email ( info@hanksvillehotrods.com ) and welcome feedback and pictures to help me to fix the issues. I'll also add this to my blog on www.hhrproducts.com. Thanks.
Hank
Hanksville Hot Rods, inc.
303.470.1850
At the end of the day this is the type of vendor I want to do Buissness with.
I hope to get their super sport rear section and figure out a way to mate it up to my 3" B&B cat bypasses/midpipes. Maybe he will make that rear section available in 3"? I really like it because it includes an X-pipe.
#22
09-29-2014, 08:12 PM
Talked to Hank today. He really seems like a good guy and someone I'd like to do business with. He's got lots of stuff not listed on the website. 3" everything, custom requests, etc. We'll be working toward mating his super sport rear section to my 3" B&B (bypasses and midpipes).
#23
09-29-2014, 10:22 PM
Yeah I got the same vibe when I spoke with him and he is willing to go the extra mile to satisfy his customers. He said he was going wait till the 6th when he gets a 955 in the shop to check my parts for clearance issues before he sends them out. I am going to go with his 3" x-pipe also asap. Anyone know what size the IPE muffler is? 2.75" or 3"??? Thanks
#24
09-29-2014, 11:52 PM
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 2,039
Rep Power: 128 
I found a way to fix the problem of the pipe sitting on the crossmember temporarily. For those having the same issue. I took the rear exhaust hanger support bolts out and moved it over so it sits right below the pipe. I then pushed the pipe up as much as I could and tightened the bolt/nut connecting he hangers together. This really helped with the vertical support. Shifting the bracket over only uses one of the mounting points to hold it to the car but it seemed to be strong. No rattles for the time being until Hank gets out another pipe. If anyone needs a pic let me know.
Looking at the problem I think it might be due to the flex section. I'm not sure how stiff they are expose to be but mine seems very moveable. I'm hoping I did not break it when I removed the factory bypass pipes.
Looking at the problem I think it might be due to the flex section. I'm not sure how stiff they are expose to be but mine seems very moveable. I'm hoping I did not break it when I removed the factory bypass pipes.
#25
09-30-2014, 10:18 AM
I found a way to fix the problem of the pipe sitting on the crossmember temporarily. For those having the same issue. I took the rear exhaust hanger support bolts out and moved it over so it sits right below the pipe. I then pushed the pipe up as much as I could and tightened the bolt/nut connecting he hangers together. This really helped with the vertical support. Shifting the bracket over only uses one of the mounting points to hold it to the car but it seemed to be strong. No rattles for the time being until Hank gets out another pipe. If anyone needs a pic let me know.
Looking at the problem I think it might be due to the flex section. I'm not sure how stiff they are expose to be but mine seems very moveable. I'm hoping I did not break it when I removed the factory bypass pipes.
Looking at the problem I think it might be due to the flex section. I'm not sure how stiff they are expose to be but mine seems very moveable. I'm hoping I did not break it when I removed the factory bypass pipes.
Yours is a pretty simple solution. I didn't get under mine yet to snap some pics. It was too nice here Saturday and ended up golfing instead of working on the car.
#26
09-30-2014, 11:33 AM
I found a way to fix the problem of the pipe sitting on the crossmember temporarily. For those having the same issue. I took the rear exhaust hanger support bolts out and moved it over so it sits right below the pipe. I then pushed the pipe up as much as I could and tightened the bolt/nut connecting he hangers together. This really helped with the vertical support. Shifting the bracket over only uses one of the mounting points to hold it to the car but it seemed to be strong.
#27
10-01-2014, 10:01 PM
OK, I figured part of this out tonight while I was under the car working on diverter valves. I looked back at the bypass pipes and it all made sense. The instructions I got with mine were old ones from Rob and mentioned adding washers to the hanger to adjust the height above the cross member. I thought it had something to do with the older style hangers and since mine had the newer style it didn't make sense.
What I realized tonight was that he wasn't talking about the hangers on the pipes themselves. He was talking about adding washers UNDER the rear hanger as a spacer. That raises the whole thing up.
Looking again at mine I noticed that I really only had about 1/4" clearance on the drivers side. Here is what I did....
Remove the bolts out of the rear hanger from the bottom (13mm). Loosen the 10mm bolts at the joint for the hangers to the pipe and loosen the 13mm pipe clamp bolts at the mid section. Now lift the rear hanger and add washers UNDER it between the hanger and the mounting bracket. Slide the bolts back in from the bottom through the mount, then the washers and into the hanger.
Now you should have a little bit of room to lift the whole section up (use a wedge under the pipe at the cross member or a pry bar). I was able to just use one hand. Then tighten the 10mm hanger bolts as tight as possible to hold it at that angle.
Then, while pushing up again tighten the 13mm bolts on the pipe clamp.
Eh voila, problem fixed. I now have at least a 1/2" clearance on both sides. I took some pics and will post them later.
I'm getting cleaned up and taking this thing out for a nice cool evening drive to test my DV theory.
What I realized tonight was that he wasn't talking about the hangers on the pipes themselves. He was talking about adding washers UNDER the rear hanger as a spacer. That raises the whole thing up.
Looking again at mine I noticed that I really only had about 1/4" clearance on the drivers side. Here is what I did....
Remove the bolts out of the rear hanger from the bottom (13mm). Loosen the 10mm bolts at the joint for the hangers to the pipe and loosen the 13mm pipe clamp bolts at the mid section. Now lift the rear hanger and add washers UNDER it between the hanger and the mounting bracket. Slide the bolts back in from the bottom through the mount, then the washers and into the hanger.
Now you should have a little bit of room to lift the whole section up (use a wedge under the pipe at the cross member or a pry bar). I was able to just use one hand. Then tighten the 10mm hanger bolts as tight as possible to hold it at that angle.
Then, while pushing up again tighten the 13mm bolts on the pipe clamp.
Eh voila, problem fixed. I now have at least a 1/2" clearance on both sides. I took some pics and will post them later.
I'm getting cleaned up and taking this thing out for a nice cool evening drive to test my DV theory.
Last edited by jdubbya; 10-01-2014 at 10:06 PM.
#28
10-02-2014, 08:36 AM
Thanks for the further explanation and it sounds like you have taken care of your situation.
But here's where I still have a big problem. Why should the end user have to kludge a fix (i.e., installing washers) for it to fit correctly? it's ridiculous that after spending close to $500, the end user has to jury-rig some washers under a mounting bracket so the pipe isn't banging on the crossmember.
As a point of reference, after removing my offending HHR driver's side bypass pipe last weekend, I reinstalled the factory secondary cat. Guess what? It fit perfectly and whether or not the flex tubing on the primary cat had stretched a bit or not, it didn't matter. No "washer" or other adjustments were necessary. I simply can't believe someone in the pipe fabrication business can't manufacturer a bypass pipe that fits right on the first attempt using both factory hanger locations.
#29
10-02-2014, 09:25 AM
Thanks for the further explanation and it sounds like you have taken care of your situation.
But here's where I still have a big problem. Why should the end user have to kludge a fix (i.e., installing washers) for it to fit correctly? it's ridiculous that after spending close to $500, the end user has to jury-rig some washers under a mounting bracket so the pipe isn't banging on the crossmember.
As a point of reference, after removing my offending HHR driver's side bypass pipe last weekend, I reinstalled the factory secondary cat. Guess what? It fit perfectly and whether or not the flex tubing on the primary cat had stretched a bit or not, it didn't matter. No "washer" or other adjustments were necessary. I simply can't believe someone in the pipe fabrication business can't manufacturer a bypass pipe that fits right on the first attempt using both factory hanger locations.
But here's where I still have a big problem. Why should the end user have to kludge a fix (i.e., installing washers) for it to fit correctly? it's ridiculous that after spending close to $500, the end user has to jury-rig some washers under a mounting bracket so the pipe isn't banging on the crossmember.
As a point of reference, after removing my offending HHR driver's side bypass pipe last weekend, I reinstalled the factory secondary cat. Guess what? It fit perfectly and whether or not the flex tubing on the primary cat had stretched a bit or not, it didn't matter. No "washer" or other adjustments were necessary. I simply can't believe someone in the pipe fabrication business can't manufacturer a bypass pipe that fits right on the first attempt using both factory hanger locations.
#30
10-02-2014, 12:03 PM
Former Vendor
And to keep the rant going, is there a single bypass vendor that actually supplies a set of secondary cat bypass pipe that actually fits and is durable? Every single vendor I'm aware of has had an issue - Fabspeed with the hangers binding into the chassis, FVD with the support brackets being too long and needing trimming of length, Leistung with brackets breaking (and delayed or non-delivery), Hanksville simply not fitting, and B&B not fitting as well (see above). These pipes aren't rocket science, and it shouldn't be so hard to find a quality aftermarket part. But it is. Very sad.
If anyone is looking for secondary cat bypass pipes for any generation of the Cayenne (958/957/955) (Turbo/GTS/S/V6) we have them, and they fit well-contrary to what have might be said above. Many happy customers running our secondary cat bypass pipes.