Squeaky shock Front Pass
#1
Squeaky shock Front Pass
Not sure if anyone has noticed this, but I have on some occasions, when driving over bumpy roads (here in Northern Cal - South Bay area, pretty much every street is bumpy).
When I do notice this, there are two types of sounds I can hear, depending on how severe the bumps are.
On the gentles bumps, the front passenger area (I assume shock area), sounds like squeaky mattress.
On more abrupt bumps, I hear a more rattly noise, like something vibrating, maybe plastics hitting the bottom of the car because they are loose.
I did check the are and there are no plastics loose under there. Everything nice and tight.
Any input on the squeakiness, and the rattling will be greatly appreciated. Let me know you would approach troubleshooting and places to check.
Thanks.
When I do notice this, there are two types of sounds I can hear, depending on how severe the bumps are.
On the gentles bumps, the front passenger area (I assume shock area), sounds like squeaky mattress.
On more abrupt bumps, I hear a more rattly noise, like something vibrating, maybe plastics hitting the bottom of the car because they are loose.
I did check the are and there are no plastics loose under there. Everything nice and tight.
Any input on the squeakiness, and the rattling will be greatly appreciated. Let me know you would approach troubleshooting and places to check.
Thanks.
#2
not sure if this applies but I had a similar issue on a truck I used to own. Ended up being the upper mount for the shock being loose and rubbing on the frame(which gave me my squeak). replaced and everything was ok. Have you looked at the top mount of the shock/coilover?
#3
No I havent. Have been playing with settings only so far. This weekend I plan to take the wheel off and take a better look at the area. So that's a good idea and I will take a look there too. Thank you
#4
Not sure if anyone has noticed this, but I have on some occasions, when driving over bumpy roads (here in Northern Cal - South Bay area, pretty much every street is bumpy).
When I do notice this, there are two types of sounds I can hear, depending on how severe the bumps are.
On the gentles bumps, the front passenger area (I assume shock area), sounds like squeaky mattress.
On more abrupt bumps, I hear a more rattly noise, like something vibrating, maybe plastics hitting the bottom of the car because they are loose.
I did check the are and there are no plastics loose under there. Everything nice and tight.
Any input on the squeakiness, and the rattling will be greatly appreciated. Let me know you would approach troubleshooting and places to check.
Thanks.
When I do notice this, there are two types of sounds I can hear, depending on how severe the bumps are.
On the gentles bumps, the front passenger area (I assume shock area), sounds like squeaky mattress.
On more abrupt bumps, I hear a more rattly noise, like something vibrating, maybe plastics hitting the bottom of the car because they are loose.
I did check the are and there are no plastics loose under there. Everything nice and tight.
Any input on the squeakiness, and the rattling will be greatly appreciated. Let me know you would approach troubleshooting and places to check.
Thanks.
But probably the bushing.
#5
its an 05 and control arms were replaced at about 50K. Approaching 100K (imminent).
Got a chance to look closer and found the front tires wearing much more on inside edges. Rest of tire wear looks even.
Would that explain the squeaky and clunking sound?
If you look at the pics, does it look like the control arm bushings?
Is the CTT S control arm with bushing better in some way? What way?
Trying to get causes/remedies narrowed down so I can do myself if possible.
Anyone replace control arms themselves? tricks?
Thanks.
Got a chance to look closer and found the front tires wearing much more on inside edges. Rest of tire wear looks even.
Would that explain the squeaky and clunking sound?
If you look at the pics, does it look like the control arm bushings?
Is the CTT S control arm with bushing better in some way? What way?
Trying to get causes/remedies narrowed down so I can do myself if possible.
Anyone replace control arms themselves? tricks?
Thanks.
#6
Hmm, I would guess you have an alignment needed but if you replace the control arms you always need updated alignment.
Maybe get the tires balanced first, then check alignment, then go with the Turbo S arms, they fit all models of Cayenne and are the most Robust of all of them...
I am in Austin.....are you close by since you're in Texas? Might sound Crazy but I use Lopez Automotive to get all my updates done. I buy and he installs and is great and competent.
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2549961/?...GqAaAukG8P8HAQ
Maybe get the tires balanced first, then check alignment, then go with the Turbo S arms, they fit all models of Cayenne and are the most Robust of all of them...
I am in Austin.....are you close by since you're in Texas? Might sound Crazy but I use Lopez Automotive to get all my updates done. I buy and he installs and is great and competent.
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2549961/?...GqAaAukG8P8HAQ
#7
Here is a thread on the value of Turbo S bushing from a great contributor, Cole.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...o-s-turbo.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...o-s-turbo.html
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#8
I used to be close (South Austin by Circle C).
Recently moved to Silicon Valley area in CA for work.
Miss TX a lot.
The main thing I am trying to solve is the clinking when going over bumps.
Looked in there over the weekend but did not see anything that would cause alarm. All ball joints seem tight and together, no rusting at all.
The tires I noticed wearing on inside must have been happening for a while since my rears seem to have similar pattern (and I have rotated tires a few times so looks like was going on for a while).
Have been reading that if you drive aggressively it will wear more on that side too (I have on occasion but not every day).
Recently moved to Silicon Valley area in CA for work.
Miss TX a lot.
The main thing I am trying to solve is the clinking when going over bumps.
Looked in there over the weekend but did not see anything that would cause alarm. All ball joints seem tight and together, no rusting at all.
The tires I noticed wearing on inside must have been happening for a while since my rears seem to have similar pattern (and I have rotated tires a few times so looks like was going on for a while).
Have been reading that if you drive aggressively it will wear more on that side too (I have on occasion but not every day).
#10
Are you talking about the rubber bushing on the a arm? The one which is close to the wheel? The one in middle pic I posted? There are other bushings too do I wanted to narrow it down. Thanks.
#11
which housing was it you were referring to?
Here is exploded diagram of the area with part numbers:
CLICK HERE
Here is exploded diagram of the area with part numbers:
CLICK HERE
#12
I've had the same symptoms and went to the dealer for diagnostic. Below is the diagnosis. The $6k would be worth it to me if there was certainty in their estimate. Given the uncertainty, I'm on the fence... repair the car or replace it. 95k miles (though only 40k on the engine)
"After a handful of road tests and getting it up on the lift the technician has heard noise from the front air struts and upper control arms the bushings are warn and we recommend replacing all of the above in an effort to get rid of the suspension noise. The estimated price to do the struts and control arms parts and labor estimated price is $6,100.00.
Its possible that after replacing the above we may need to get into stabilizer bar bushing and links. Right now the major problem is coming from the struts. But once replaced other suspension parts may become noisy."
"After a handful of road tests and getting it up on the lift the technician has heard noise from the front air struts and upper control arms the bushings are warn and we recommend replacing all of the above in an effort to get rid of the suspension noise. The estimated price to do the struts and control arms parts and labor estimated price is $6,100.00.
Its possible that after replacing the above we may need to get into stabilizer bar bushing and links. Right now the major problem is coming from the struts. But once replaced other suspension parts may become noisy."
#13
To resolve my problem, which by the way appears to be the common place for this type of noise, I purchased 2 lower control arms for the CTT.
The noise is made by the rear bushing on the control arm (bushing closest to center-rear of car on each side). The car makes sort of 'squack' noise as you go over bumps. Its the rubber bushings that are torn and make this sound. It is accentuated in colder temperatures.
Front lower control arms (Qty: 2 - $600)
Front Sway bar bushings (Qty: 4 - $50 total)
Front Sway bar links (Qty: 2 - $45 total)
Front tie rods (Qty: 2 - $200 total)
So the total cost for parts was: 600+50+45+200=$895
Then, spent one day doing the replacement of parts myself.
After that, spent $150 on 4 wheel alignment.
Amazing how much better car suspension feels now. Wouldn't know if kept driving (got used to the feel).
TOTAL COST FOR front suspension refresh: $1045 + 1 day of working on the car.
If I were you, I would do it yourself, and pocket the $5K or so. Or better yet, split the 5K with me (you can use my DIYs for the work... ).
I will be posting remainder of DIYs needed in next few days.
The noise is made by the rear bushing on the control arm (bushing closest to center-rear of car on each side). The car makes sort of 'squack' noise as you go over bumps. Its the rubber bushings that are torn and make this sound. It is accentuated in colder temperatures.
Front lower control arms (Qty: 2 - $600)
Front Sway bar bushings (Qty: 4 - $50 total)
Front Sway bar links (Qty: 2 - $45 total)
Front tie rods (Qty: 2 - $200 total)
So the total cost for parts was: 600+50+45+200=$895
Then, spent one day doing the replacement of parts myself.
After that, spent $150 on 4 wheel alignment.
Amazing how much better car suspension feels now. Wouldn't know if kept driving (got used to the feel).
TOTAL COST FOR front suspension refresh: $1045 + 1 day of working on the car.
If I were you, I would do it yourself, and pocket the $5K or so. Or better yet, split the 5K with me (you can use my DIYs for the work... ).
I will be posting remainder of DIYs needed in next few days.
I've had the same symptoms and went to the dealer for diagnostic. Below is the diagnosis. The $6k would be worth it to me if there was certainty in their estimate. Given the uncertainty, I'm on the fence... repair the car or replace it. 95k miles (though only 40k on the engine)
"After a handful of road tests and getting it up on the lift the technician has heard noise from the front air struts and upper control arms the bushings are warn and we recommend replacing all of the above in an effort to get rid of the suspension noise. The estimated price to do the struts and control arms parts and labor estimated price is $6,100.00.
Its possible that after replacing the above we may need to get into stabilizer bar bushing and links. Right now the major problem is coming from the struts. But once replaced other suspension parts may become noisy."
"After a handful of road tests and getting it up on the lift the technician has heard noise from the front air struts and upper control arms the bushings are warn and we recommend replacing all of the above in an effort to get rid of the suspension noise. The estimated price to do the struts and control arms parts and labor estimated price is $6,100.00.
Its possible that after replacing the above we may need to get into stabilizer bar bushing and links. Right now the major problem is coming from the struts. But once replaced other suspension parts may become noisy."
#14
Your dealer is going to go all out and replace everything with huge labor mark ups and costly parts.
I would call ECS or Pelican, get the upper arms/lower control arms, track bars, bushings, and front/rear shocks.....compare that costs and get a local suspension shop to quote you labor and offer aftermarket rebuildable shocks they might see as valuable over bilstein......and get a quote for alignment.
I am close to doing this but I was seeing 3-4k in all in costs.
I would call ECS or Pelican, get the upper arms/lower control arms, track bars, bushings, and front/rear shocks.....compare that costs and get a local suspension shop to quote you labor and offer aftermarket rebuildable shocks they might see as valuable over bilstein......and get a quote for alignment.
I am close to doing this but I was seeing 3-4k in all in costs.